If anyone can figure out how to take the shudder out of a lightened flywheel, let me know. I'm thinking of just wrapping the lower part of my shifter with some dynamat or hushmat. Only 4th gear makes that annoying noise under no gas and disappears when you touch the gas. The $650 for the bell housing is worth a savings of a few thousand dollars when compared to a full race tranny modified to fit a miata. I'll gladly pay that $650 and an American dukes-of-hazard tranny and take a vacation with the left over cash.

 

Also, quick note on engine build... My starter just went and I found a 2000-2002 Protege starter fits perfect and sounds way better than the miata. It's twice as beefy. None of the matching parts sites mention that part to fit. We just took a guess from the bolt pattern matching.

 

A TKO is not cheap, but it's probably cheaper than a tow vehicle and a trailer for us who drive to and from the track.

 

Most of the guys here are weight weenies - we use the NB starter which is ~6lbs lighter than the NA starter.

 

So do na8 and nb1 starters interchange? I know the 6 spd ones line up using 2/3 bolt holes...

I checked here thinking id find my answer. Guess not.
http://www.miata.net/garage/compatibility.html

 

If you're fine with 2/3 starter bolts, all the 94-05 starters line up just fine. The 1.6 starter works too, but you don't get to use the support bracket.

 

LOL "kinetic" like it hold in the kinetic energy more better?

http://www.cometic.com/

 

This thread has been ruthlessly hijacked Let's get back to helping our comrade experience built-motor love.

 

I would also suggest shopping around and seeing if you can get a mazdaspeed motorsports account as they have a fairly comprehensive set of oem parts at reasonable prices and the part diagrams are very helpful.

 

Just use a relay firm/racer instead.

 

Dammit!! I'm currently between future ex-mrs_hydes and was hoping this would be a good option...

 

Meanwhile...

 

Just arrived, well, hand delivered today...

Please note the lovely 650cc injector sitting in the crank bore of one of the rods there, too.

Also, not pictured are a complete set of ARP studs (head and main), and rings (JE JG1004-3307) for the pistons..

 

Hakan-

Those are some good looking injectors

-Sam

 

Head porting...

Useful, with concrete results, or exercise in futility on a boosted engine using stock intake manifold?

Please feel free to enlighten me.

 

you're missing a ring filer
edit: dammit old thread