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Old 11-04-2009, 03:01 AM   #41
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Just curious, why doesnt any one use traction bars to cure the wheel hop instead of trash everything else?

Add some traction bars, add some stiffer springs and you have your self a smooth as butter burnout/takeoff.
Please explain to me how traction bars would work on our rear suspension.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:11 AM   #42
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I'm no expert on traction bars, but aren't they for leaf spring suspensions with solid rear axles? The traction bar is a measure to deal with the leaf springs inability of properly keep the axle from twisting.

A Miata's double A arm independent suspension doesn't have this problem, and unless there is some other device also known as a traction bar that works on a Miata, I'm thinking that installing a traction bar on a Miata would make as much sense as installing glow plugs.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:12 AM   #43
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I'm no expert on traction bars, but aren't they for leaf spring suspensions with solid rear axles? The traction bar is a measure to deal with the leaf springs inability of properly keep the axle from twisting.

A Miata's double A arm independent suspension doesn't have this problem, and unless there is some other device also known as a traction bar that works on a Miata, I'm thinking that installing a traction bar on a Miata would make as much sense as installing glow plugs.
This is exactly why I want him to explain to me WTF he's talking about.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:32 AM   #44
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perhaps its not called traction bars? Its basically bars with a Johhny joint on each end that mounts to the end of the control arm and mounts around the rear of the door. This holds the axle steady in its place instead of it having some play forward and backwards which is the main problem. It grips, pulls forward slips grips again pulls forward so forth. There was a good writeup some one did on a miata 3 years ago on the miata forum. I have yet to see a vehicle with forward arms and hard suspension suffer wheel hop.
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:04 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
perhaps its not called traction bars? Its basically bars with a Johhny joint on each end that mounts to the end of the control arm and mounts around the rear of the door. This holds the axle steady in its place instead of it having some play forward and backwards which is the main problem. It grips, pulls forward slips grips again pulls forward so forth. There was a good writeup some one did on a miata 3 years ago on the miata forum. I have yet to see a vehicle with forward arms and hard suspension suffer wheel hop.
The axle doesn't twist like a solid axle with leaf springs does.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:24 AM   #46
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The shift feel cannot be beat, but when your PPF bolts come loose, your motor mount nuts rattle off, your alternator tension bracket falls off, and your rear view mirror is totally useless at 2200rpm, you'll be reconsidering them. I'm switching my car from MMR to Comp mounts, and resigning myself to the fact that I'll break a set every 6-8 months.
This.
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:41 AM   #47
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The axle doesn't twist like a solid axle with leaf springs does.
its not about twisting. Its about the stock control arms having bushings on the ends.
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:10 PM   #48
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What makes a car wheel hop is when the differential rocks back and forth.

When the car is launched, the differential pivots up. The ppf bends just slightly and then springs the differential down again. This up and down cycle causes the wheel hop.

In straight axle cars, the control arms are at the ends, close to the wheel, because the axle tubes and differential are all one unit.

In an irs car, the only way to keep the differntial from twisting upwards, is to attach some kind of bar from the differential to the chassis and or strengthen the ppf.

Strengthening the control arms does nothing, because they are independent from the differential.
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
Just curious, why doesnt any one use traction bars to cure the wheel hop instead of trash everything else?

Add some traction bars, add some stiffer springs and you have your self a smooth as butter burnout/takeoff.
You figure out a way to mount them on a non tubbed miata and we probly would. IRS and no rear frame protruding out for mounting makes it kind of prohibitive on our cars.
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Old 01-18-2010, 03:18 PM   #50
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From the dead...

I am about to do change mounts from my MMR's to MC ones. I want to try solid mount on passenger side and MC on the driver side. Braindick said this would be a good setup.

Any one ever try mixing the two? My MMR's broke me, but I have a feeling MC only mounts would not be tight enough for my liking.
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:44 PM   #51
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Well I did MC on drivers side and MMR on the passenger side.
It is alot better, so much more pleasnt to ride in.

Funny thing is now my idle is all sorts of fucked up, and I can barely make 3 psi.
Boost leak? I'm confused

EDIT: BOV fail.

Last edited by Bond; 01-18-2010 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:48 AM   #52
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i bought a set of mmr mounts last month and haven't installed them. I'm planning on running one MMR and one Mazspeed mount.

your car is a daily, Bond, how is it?
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:07 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by johnwag View Post
i bought a set of mmr mounts last month and haven't installed them. I'm planning on running one MMR and one Mazspeed mount.

your car is a daily, Bond, how is it?
Haven't finished the front end rehab yet - but if you do pull one your MS mounts, I will gladly take it. Would like to do it before the PAX side suspension is all back together.
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:22 AM   #54
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Can anyone with MMR mounts measure the thickness of the mount. I plan to make some mounts with some threaded rod and some hockey pucks (yes I'm canadian). Even mearuing a stock mount would be handy if someone has one out of a car. This is not a street car, so I'm alright with all the potential downsides.

Mike
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:18 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by mikewolf View Post
Can anyone with MMR mounts measure the thickness of the mount. I plan to make some mounts with some threaded rod and some hockey pucks (yes I'm canadian). Even mearuing a stock mount would be handy if someone has one out of a car. This is not a street car, so I'm alright with all the potential downsides.

Mike
Hockey pucks....that's an old hot rod trick IIRC.

Also wondering if it would be between the MC and MMR mounts to take the MC mount and perform the windoweld trick to create a polyurethane insert of sorts. I don't know how effective it would be, just a thought.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:52 PM   #56
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What mounts are the ones that everyone here likes? Is this them MazdaSpeed Mounts on Moss

Sorry to threadjack.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:51 PM   #57
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It really depends on what you want. The mounts you are looking at are stiffer than stock, but won't rattle you to death.

The MMR mounts are solid. They will create a lot of vibrations and the gauge needles will be shaky.

Some people mix em up: MMR on Passenger side and the Mazdaspeed on the driver side. This is so it won't be as harsh and I've heard rumors of the heat from a turbo melting MMR mounts.
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