levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Motor has 180 miles since being built. Coolant reroute, koyo rad and as good ducting as a street car should ever need. The only thing I can think of is the location of the temp sensor at the back of the head is getting heat soaked. Any other suggestions? I'm seeing temps in excess of 220 and ambient temp is 90.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Hood vents?

What head gasket?

Duct work to guide air through the rad and out the hood?

Doesnt the koyo suck? Supermiata crossflow is like 200 bucks, isnt it?

SpartanSV

I have a oem radiator, no reroute, no undertray, no ducting on my street car. Over 1000 miles with no heat issues.

I'd wager there is air in the system.

borka

iTrader: (1)

I had a turbo 99 miata, no air guide, no undertray, no reroute, stock radiator. And it was fine too, until I turned on the air conditioner.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Are you built and boosted though?

What head @ head gasket.

I also found that getting all the air bubbles out of my system with the reroute and turbo was a pain. I have literally the worst radiator ever made and i'm not hitting 220 regularly. I have to really be forcing it to hit that temp.
And did you wire your fans to come on together, instead of just the one?

SpartanSV

Forged rods, ebay 2871, somewhere around 250whp.

BP05 head, OEM NA8 headgasket,

Fans are on separate outputs from MS3x, turn on temps are staggered but both will be on if necessary.

SpartanSV

Haven't had any issues yet even with A/C. I also shoehorned a bigger I/C in than most with A/C do.

brainzata

iTrader: (4)

When is your water temp high? All the time? What psi is your rad cap? How did you bleed the system? Did you ever stick a wrag or plug into any cooling ports big or small? Stock temp sender location would see less heat soak due to the reroute allowing the heat back there to escape sooner. hence why you did a reroute. Is your thermostat inline and is it facing the right direction/normal warm up time?

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

The raised piece sits right along the bottom of the radiator.
Im wondering if this piece is restricting airflow to the radiator. I put it there hoping to direct flow through the intercooler.
ok gonna try and answer all questions at once. No hood vents, cometic head gasket, I do have some duct work, I'll post more pics.

Water temp is always high imo. i just took a 45 minute cruise, when moving steadily temps hover between 190-193. As soon as I come to a stop they shoot up over 200 and will slowly continue up. Never stuck anything in any ports (hopefully engine builder did not either). Thermostat is in correctly although now I'm doubting myself. Warm up time is normal and it will take a good 20 minutes to get up to 200 after a cold start.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

So i have to run both fans at once in 90+F heat when idling / in traffic. Also, i needed the shroud for the fans. That helped more than without. Again, i have the worst radiator ever made, not sure how much worse the Koyo is.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

How is 190-193 always high? That's pretty much ideal.

MS3 base tune doesn't turn on fans until 220F. So if you want the car to stay cooler when you come to a stop, go into the tune and adjust the turn-on point.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

It takes a few miles of driving to get temps into low 190s, soon as i come to a stop temps quickly rise past 200, temp will continue to rise the longer im sitting idle. Fans are set to come on at 185.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Remote thermostat or is it on the back of the head? I've had major issues with the M-tuned setup, however that's usually more of huge sways in temps, as the thermostat reacts so slowly in that location.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Back of the head.

brainzata

iTrader: (4)

Take that panel off that doesn't allow airflow over the IC. the bottom pan and side panels to keep air from going around radiator is what you want. You aren't allowing enough fresh air the the radiator imo. Also anything under 200 cruise is great at 90* ambient. Remove that panel and expect a slight difference.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Yes, definitely pull that panel. If anything, you want that area more open, not less. Also, do you still have the OEM fan? The OEM fan is much better than most aftermarket fans (not sure what type you have in the picture). Worth a try, but make sure the motor on the OEM fan is fresh.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

took the panel off and drove the car to work today, This morning was hard to tell if it helped cause it was dark and cool. Coming home though i could tell a slight difference when moving. However when i got off the highway my water temp rose to 245 by the time i pulled in the garage. the radiator fan is not stock, but i did just get an OE replacement in the mail today. My car cant sit idle without temps rising that high.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

How did you burp the system?

Put on the stock fan as a replacement. Sitting at idle you should have zero issues with temps getting up to whatever you have your fan set at to turn on at. 2 stock fans should have zero issue pulling air through IC/AC/radiator and keeping temps in line.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Front of the car jacked up so that the rad cap was higher than the back of the motor. ran it for about 20 minutes with the cap off.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

test the rad to see if it's clogged.