How hard should a rebuilt motor be to turn?
I have used the factory flywheel bolts. The strange thing is, I can't replicate the problem anymore. I have installed the transmission, and drove the car for a short bit. I had an oil leak coming from the oil pump pressure relief bolt. Which lead me to this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...ht-pics-58278/


I took it out and used a thread sealant and put it back on. Now I have a small leak from the front of the oil pan. I suspect the front main seal. But I am also now throwing a CEL, the car is idling a little rough and it randomly struggles to start. I suspect I'm off by a tooth on my timing belt. I will double check both next weekend. Does this look like it is properly lined up?


I took it out and used a thread sealant and put it back on. Now I have a small leak from the front of the oil pan. I suspect the front main seal. But I am also now throwing a CEL, the car is idling a little rough and it randomly struggles to start. I suspect I'm off by a tooth on my timing belt. I will double check both next weekend. Does this look like it is properly lined up?
Hm, it should be TDC, but I'll double check it tonight. I think I may off on my timing belt based on this thread: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=227838
Cams look good, it's always hard to tell unless you take two pictures, straight on the cam marks of each one. Kind of like trying to read the speedo from the passenger seat.
Is this a little better:


I know its hard to see, but this is the current position of the timing sprocket. I haven't had time to remove the accessory belts and timing belt cover. I'm temporarily working two jobs.

I found this thread when I was looking up CEL codes:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=227838
This is why I suspected the timing belt being off. I will double check the CEL code as soon as I get a chance.


I know its hard to see, but this is the current position of the timing sprocket. I haven't had time to remove the accessory belts and timing belt cover. I'm temporarily working two jobs.

I found this thread when I was looking up CEL codes:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=227838
This is why I suspected the timing belt being off. I will double check the CEL code as soon as I get a chance.
So have confirmed my oil leak is coming from my front crank seal. I used a flyin miata front crank seal install tool and it pressed the crank seal further in by about 5mm. My question is, should I replace it or try using it again? The front seal is few months old and has about 15 miles of use. I also plan on using the cam seal installing tool to double check the cam seals.



I also had a chicken that would not leave my garage, no idea why.



I also had a chicken that would not leave my garage, no idea why.
Is this a little better:


I know its hard to see, but this is the current position of the timing sprocket. I haven't had time to remove the accessory belts and timing belt cover. I'm temporarily working two jobs.

I found this thread when I was looking up CEL codes:
Pulled a code 4, now what? - MX-5 Miata Forum
This is why I suspected the timing belt being off. I will double check the CEL code as soon as I get a chance.


I know its hard to see, but this is the current position of the timing sprocket. I haven't had time to remove the accessory belts and timing belt cover. I'm temporarily working two jobs.

I found this thread when I was looking up CEL codes:
Pulled a code 4, now what? - MX-5 Miata Forum
This is why I suspected the timing belt being off. I will double check the CEL code as soon as I get a chance.
Umm . .. chicks dig miatas ?
Well, I put everything back together. The cam seals are not leaking. But the front crank seal is puking oil. Is there a brand I should buy for the front main seal? Or should I buy an oem one? I used the seals that came with my upper gasket kit.
If you happened to score the crank when removing the old gasket, you won't get a decent seal with anything. As a habit, I only use OEM seals, but it seems most people who've had leaks found it was caused by either a nick on the seal surface (crank) or an over/under depth placement of the seal.
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