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Old 04-20-2012, 09:54 AM   #21
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Nice writeup as usual. I had to do this once 45 minutes before the car was due on grid- on a cam cap bolt. The only in that job was the completion.
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:03 PM   #22
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When installing spec miata hardtop brackets 4 out of the 6 top, front latch bolts broke off. I broke two easy outs, but was able to re-tap 3 of the four. Oh, and I also drilled a hole straight through my ------- hardtop.

I think the moral of the story is, be very cautious with easy outs.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:30 PM   #23
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Sorry, as much as I love your threads you won't get much easy out love from mt.net, I'm surprised more of the haters haven't chimed in yet.
As not to disappoint Curly: I'm still waiting for the day when I successfully use an EZ Out without breaking the g*ddam3 mo7h0r fu04d34ng piecee of s#8t tip off. Doing it on a bench is about the only real way to get it done right. Trying to use one on a part that is still on the car is a recipe for disaster.

Nice write-up.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:20 AM   #24
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I've tried the related trick of heating the area a little @150-200 degrees and melting a birthday candle onto the area. The wax in a liquid state will creep into the threads and aid with the removal.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:30 AM   #25
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I've tried the related trick of heating the area a little @150-200 degrees and melting a birthday candle onto the area. The wax in a liquid state will creep into the threads and aid with the removal.
Does this actually work or are you trolling?

Sounds like a great recipe for homemade loctite
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:28 AM   #26
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I thought it sounded like BS when I first heard about it. Had a bolt I couldn't get out, so what the hell, I tried it, it worked. It's candle wax, goes in and helps lubricate the threads. I'm sure the heat helped some too but you can't put much heat on aluminum.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Does this actually work or are you trolling?
I've never tried it personally, but that recipe has been floating around since at least the 70s. I've heard of it from more than one old mechanic, so I tend to assume it's true.

Personally, I've always just used liquid wrench (and heat).
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:19 PM   #28
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I know "liquid wrench" is more of a generic term, like Kleenex or Xerox copies, but you really need to try PB blaster. So much better. Being where you are, you probably don't have to deal with rust the way I do, though.

Kroil is better still, but expensive, and as far as I've seen, only available from the company through mail order.
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Old 04-28-2012, 03:10 PM   #29
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Well, I was referring specifically to Gunk brand Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil, but I have to admit that I've never tried PB Blaster or any of the others. But you're right- I grew up in Florida and now live in SoCal, so massively rusted fasteners aren't something I encounter on a daily basis.
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Old 04-28-2012, 03:37 PM   #30
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I always weld a nut onto it and profit. I've messed around with EZ outs before but I find it easier to just use the welder. Sometimes I will try using a left hand drill bit just for ***** and giggles and sometimes I get lucky.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:20 AM   #31
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The torch and wax trick dose work, I do not use it on alum tho.

On a cast iron part, you will heat it enough to glow orange, then touch it with wax, I use Gulf canning wax, Then wiggle it till you get a bit of movement.

PB Blaster is ok, I perfer Sea Foam Deep Creep, Not to expensive and works well.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:33 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleete View Post
I know "liquid wrench" is more of a generic term, like Kleenex or Xerox copies, but you really need to try PB blaster. So much better. Being where you are, you probably don't have to deal with rust the way I do, though.

Kroil is better still, but expensive, and as far as I've seen, only available from the company through mail order.
+1 for PB Blaster, Kroil, and Heat. A combination of those and ez-out.

Can't count the number of ez-outs I've broken off in parts, so I soak the crap out of the part in kroil/pb days before even attempting to remove whatever it is. Attempting to upgrade my front sway bar left the drivers side bracket with a broken bolt, broken ez-out, and broken high dollar twist-drill. That causes me to locate a new sway bar bracket from a non-rustbucket car, in the process of removing said bracket from my car left one of the bolts spinning inside the frame rail. They're held on with IIRC 4 bolts and 4 spot welds and the upper left hand bolt on the outside just spun freely after hitting it with an impact. Solution to that, weld that corner of the bracket. :(


Once again Nice write up, SVO.
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:39 AM   #33
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After procrastinating for about a year I finally went at removing a snapped valve cover bolt today. It was nerve racking having a drill so close to my cams/valves etc. but I sealed everything off and actually managed to drill a straight hole today. Couldn't get the easy out to do anything by hand so I decided to throw it in the drill and give it a go. A few quick taps on the trigger to give a bit of on/off torque to the bolt and it came out ease. Chased the hole and it's all good.
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:41 AM   #34
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Oh and it was cross threaded too . Happy I didn't have to threadsert or helicoil it.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:52 AM   #35
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Kano Kroil is the stuff. PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench don't come close.
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Old 05-03-2012, 03:30 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau View Post
Kano Kroil is the stuff. PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench don't come close.
^^ I've used all three and there isn't a comparison. We have a retailer who has Kroil on the counter here so I haven't had to deal with mail order.

There is a box of dead Ez-outs growing in my drillbit drawer. They really only seem to be suited for stripped heads and not high torque situations. I have had really good luck with reverse thread drillbits though. Also a note on drilling hard metal - use cutting fluid and keep the drill RPMs in the hundreds, not thousands. You want the bit to cut through the metal, not burn through it.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:44 AM   #37
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Use of Kroil is the one mechanic skill i have that i am proud of
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:22 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elesjuan View Post
+1 for PB Blaster, Kroil, and Heat. A combination of those and ez-out.

Can't count the number of ez-outs I've broken off in parts, so I soak the crap out of the part in kroil/pb days before even attempting to remove whatever it is. Attempting to upgrade my front sway bar left the drivers side bracket with a broken bolt, broken ez-out, and broken high dollar twist-drill. That causes me to locate a new sway bar bracket from a non-rustbucket car, in the process of removing said bracket from my car left one of the bolts spinning inside the frame rail. They're held on with IIRC 4 bolts and 4 spot welds and the upper left hand bolt on the outside just spun freely after hitting it with an impact. Solution to that, weld that corner of the bracket. :(


Once again Nice write up, SVO.
Sounds like my last weekend. The two drivers side bolts came out surprisingly well, the passenger sides both snapped before applying any real significant torque ... I hate Mazda hardware.

I've never broken a bolt on my rusty Volvo 240 which has seen 20 New England winters. I've broken dozens on my rust free miata

-Zach
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:22 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogusSVO View Post
The EZ-out method has little success on cross threaded or rusted bolts.
What do you suggest in these scinerios?
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:39 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by stucky View Post
When installing spec miata hardtop brackets 4 out of the 6 top, front latch bolts broke off. I broke two easy outs, but was able to re-tap 3 of the four. Oh, and I also drilled a hole straight through my ------- hardtop.

I think the moral of the story is, be very cautious with easy outs.
Happened to me on almost all of those demon screws.

I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in the head, then heated it with a heat gun and backed them out with a flathead.
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