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I tired to look at your profile and associate you with an order so that we get you squared away. Please see our post about how to get this swapped. Turns out they are full steam ahead on new hubs to fix their inventory and it won't be long. Thank you!
Originally Posted by Joker
(Post 1472428)
Just checked mine -- Its off a tooth as well. Before I raise hell, has anyone contacted ATI yet? Sav?
Edit: Called anyways.. they said one of you guys called Friday. Told me to call back in a few days. Post here if you guys get more info please. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...514d7fd9f8.jpg |
Originally Posted by FAB
(Post 1472820)
I tired to look at your profile and associate you with an order so that we get you squared away. Please see our post about how to get this swapped. Turns out they are full steam ahead on new hubs to fix their inventory and it won't be long. Thank you!
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My engine is the one in the OP :cry: I sent an email out to ATI following fab9's email format. Hopefully they can resolve this issue in a timely manner because I have waited months for my motor to be finished just to hit this snag at the last minute. Andrew, I sent you an email on how I'd like to proceed forward.
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Anyone have any tool tips on getting this thing off? Bolt is out -
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1701a5840.jpg "Best engine protection money can buy" |
You need a puller. I have one similar to this:
--Ian |
Most auto parts stores will loan you a puller. The one at my local store is beat to shit though.
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I rented a puller from Autozone for $20. You could also just buy it for $20. Worked perfectly on pulling my SM damper.
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1472681)
+1 for Andrew/Trackspeed for catching this.
Hopefully the pulley itself can be removed from the damper assembly without destroying the damper. ASSuming it can, because why wouldn't it be. Rehobbing the keyway is a good fix for the crafty enginebuilder but why bother. High chance ATI will make another run of pulleys with the teeth oriented to the keyway properly and offer a free exchange. AFAIK they make the pulleys in house using the same equipment we use to make ours, so turnaround should be pretty quick. Teeth are added after the part comes off the lathe, so it's up to the operator to orient the key correctly. It's a manual trim that takes skill and is easy to fuck up. LOL @ QC in aftermarket performance companies. First article what??? |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1473242)
You need a puller. I have one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Pcs-Harmo...dp/B00KROI574/
--Ian
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot
(Post 1473251)
Most auto parts stores will loan you a puller. The one at my local store is beat to shit though.
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1473269)
I rented a puller from Autozone for $20. You could also just buy it for $20. Worked perfectly on pulling my SM damper.
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Damper exchange email sent out 9 days ago - still no sign of a call tag in email. At this rate i'd rather pay to have my damper returned so i can get the replacement here to get my motor together for the global time attack event.
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Originally Posted by MuchoBoosto
(Post 1474599)
Damper exchange email sent out 9 days ago - still no sign of a call tag in email. At this rate i'd rather pay to have my damper returned so i can get the replacement here to get my motor together for the global time attack event.
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whoops, my pics weren't very helpful before - here is what i was actually suppose to show.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c5a09c69b.jpg it appears mine is fine |
Well
I guess this is not a big deal as long as I have adjustable cam gears and will set cams according to real TDC measured from spark plug hole ? |
Originally Posted by AndrewG
(Post 1475116)
Well
I guess this is not a big deal as long as I have adjustable cam gears and will set cams according to real TDC measured from spark plug hole ? |
Originally Posted by AndrewG
(Post 1475116)
Well
I guess this is not a big deal as long as I have adjustable cam gears and will set cams according to real TDC measured from spark plug hole ? Brian is correct - There will not be an adjustable cam gear for a VVT system because of the hydraulic action that takes place within the gear. |
Originally Posted by FAB
(Post 1475120)
Brian is correct - There will not be an adjustable cam gear for a VVT system because of the hydraulic action that takes place within the gear.
--Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1475121)
Which means you can fix the intake cam in software, albeit at the cost of shifting the adjustability range. You do get to choose if you want to shift it towards advance or retard, though.
--Ian |
Originally Posted by bahurd
(Post 1475124)
If you adjust the exhaust side, within the range of the gear to compensate for whatever the crank is off, what happens to the intake side with respect to the VVT operation? Personally, I'd opt to get the balancer fixed. I realize my question depends on how far is the damper off. Seems from what we'e seen that number is somewhat variable.
Assuming that to be the case, a mis-clocked damper just moves the "zero" point of the intake cam to being plus-or-minus however many degrees it's off by. So to compensate you just add or subtract that number from all of the tables for the VVT cam. At one end that may move it outside of the physically allowable range, at the other end you now have more range. --Ian |
The gear doesn't retard. only locks at zero and advances to end of range. So not quite.
If I paid retail for one of these (which is overpriced imo) I'd be furious right now. |
now imagine you are from europe....but well we are all just a humans and errors in production happens.
I jist have to wait for my damper to arrive from crank+clutch flywheel balancing and check how bad it is. Massive thumbs up to andrew for pointing out this and to fab9 for true customer service! |
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