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Incorrect tooth clocking on ATI dampers

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Old 03-20-2018, 03:49 PM
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I tired to look at your profile and associate you with an order so that we get you squared away. Please see our post about how to get this swapped. Turns out they are full steam ahead on new hubs to fix their inventory and it won't be long. Thank you!

Originally Posted by Joker
Just checked mine -- Its off a tooth as well. Before I raise hell, has anyone contacted ATI yet? Sav?

Edit: Called anyways.. they said one of you guys called Friday. Told me to call back in a few days. Post here if you guys get more info please.

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Old 03-20-2018, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by FAB
I tired to look at your profile and associate you with an order so that we get you squared away. Please see our post about how to get this swapped. Turns out they are full steam ahead on new hubs to fix their inventory and it won't be long. Thank you!
Thanks Bryan -- I'm sorry this happened, but I appreciate you guys taking care of us. Sending email now.

Last edited by Joker; 03-20-2018 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 03-21-2018, 04:10 PM
  #63  
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My engine is the one in the OP I sent an email out to ATI following fab9's email format. Hopefully they can resolve this issue in a timely manner because I have waited months for my motor to be finished just to hit this snag at the last minute. Andrew, I sent you an email on how I'd like to proceed forward.
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:27 PM
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Anyone have any tool tips on getting this thing off? Bolt is out -


"Best engine protection money can buy"
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:33 PM
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You need a puller. I have one similar to this:
Amazon Amazon

--Ian
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:48 PM
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Most auto parts stores will loan you a puller. The one at my local store is beat to **** though.
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:33 AM
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I rented a puller from Autozone for $20. You could also just buy it for $20. Worked perfectly on pulling my SM damper.
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Old 03-24-2018, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
+1 for Andrew/Trackspeed for catching this.

Hopefully the pulley itself can be removed from the damper assembly without destroying the damper. ASSuming it can, because why wouldn't it be. Rehobbing the keyway is a good fix for the crafty enginebuilder but why bother. High chance ATI will make another run of pulleys with the teeth oriented to the keyway properly and offer a free exchange. AFAIK they make the pulleys in house using the same equipment we use to make ours, so turnaround should be pretty quick. Teeth are added after the part comes off the lathe, so it's up to the operator to orient the key correctly. It's a manual trim that takes skill and is easy to **** up.

LOL @ QC in aftermarket performance companies. First article what???
Dude, you guys need to get yourselves some gloy from benz or ph horn so you can just shape the thing right in the lathe an not have fuckups like this. We've been having good luck with ph horn stuff, we're not too happy with our ben stuff but we're doing **** in mills and they more specialize in lathe work.
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Old 03-25-2018, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by codrus
You need a puller. I have one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Pcs-Harmo...dp/B00KROI574/

--Ian
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot
Most auto parts stores will loan you a puller. The one at my local store is beat to **** though.
Originally Posted by shuiend
I rented a puller from Autozone for $20. You could also just buy it for $20. Worked perfectly on pulling my SM damper.
Thanks for the tips! Went with a Harbor Fright puller. Got the job done.
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:28 PM
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Damper exchange email sent out 9 days ago - still no sign of a call tag in email. At this rate i'd rather pay to have my damper returned so i can get the replacement here to get my motor together for the global time attack event.
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MuchoBoosto
Damper exchange email sent out 9 days ago - still no sign of a call tag in email. At this rate i'd rather pay to have my damper returned so i can get the replacement here to get my motor together for the global time attack event.
I have not seen the call tag for ours either. That being said, it's completely unrelated to how fast you get your damper back. If they had your ATi 2 days ago they still won't have the replacements complete for a week or so. Believe me, I'm putting tremendous pressure on these guys.
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Old 04-02-2018, 12:13 PM
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whoops, my pics weren't very helpful before - here is what i was actually suppose to show.



it appears mine is fine
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Old 04-02-2018, 03:44 PM
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Well
I guess this is not a big deal as long as I have adjustable cam gears and will set cams according to real TDC measured from spark plug hole ?
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Old 04-02-2018, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewG
Well
I guess this is not a big deal as long as I have adjustable cam gears and will set cams according to real TDC measured from spark plug hole ?
Aren't you doing a VVT?
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Old 04-02-2018, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewG
Well
I guess this is not a big deal as long as I have adjustable cam gears and will set cams according to real TDC measured from spark plug hole ?
Right, measure mechanical TDC (I'd mark the ATi shell to reflect this accurately), use your adjustable cam gears for the correction and clearly this eats up useful range in your cam gears but it will solve the fluke. At some point down the road, if you'd like to have the hub replaced I'm sure it's the same procedure as it is currently.

Brian is correct - There will not be an adjustable cam gear for a VVT system because of the hydraulic action that takes place within the gear.
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by FAB
Brian is correct - There will not be an adjustable cam gear for a VVT system because of the hydraulic action that takes place within the gear.
Which means you can fix the intake cam in software, albeit at the cost of shifting the adjustability range. You do get to choose if you want to shift it towards advance or retard, though.

--Ian
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by codrus
Which means you can fix the intake cam in software, albeit at the cost of shifting the adjustability range. You do get to choose if you want to shift it towards advance or retard, though.

--Ian
If you adjust the exhaust side, within the range of the gear to compensate for whatever the crank is off, what happens to the intake side with respect to the VVT operation? Personally, I'd opt to get the balancer fixed. I realize my question depends on how far is the damper off. Seems from what we'e seen that number is somewhat variable.
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bahurd
If you adjust the exhaust side, within the range of the gear to compensate for whatever the crank is off, what happens to the intake side with respect to the VVT operation? Personally, I'd opt to get the balancer fixed. I realize my question depends on how far is the damper off. Seems from what we'e seen that number is somewhat variable.
I don't actually own a VVT head, but my impression is it's basically it's basically just an adjustable cam gear that's dynamically control by regulating the oil pressure inside it, right?

Assuming that to be the case, a mis-clocked damper just moves the "zero" point of the intake cam to being plus-or-minus however many degrees it's off by. So to compensate you just add or subtract that number from all of the tables for the VVT cam. At one end that may move it outside of the physically allowable range, at the other end you now have more range.

--Ian
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Old 04-02-2018, 04:39 PM
  #79  
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The gear doesn't retard. only locks at zero and advances to end of range. So not quite.

If I paid retail for one of these (which is overpriced imo) I'd be furious right now.
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Old 04-02-2018, 05:01 PM
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now imagine you are from europe....but well we are all just a humans and errors in production happens.
I jist have to wait for my damper to arrive from crank+clutch flywheel balancing and check how bad it is. Massive thumbs up to andrew for pointing out this and to fab9 for true customer service!
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