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Old 05-26-2011, 06:58 PM   #1
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Default Inverse Thermostat: Does it exist?

I'm looking for a thermostat that *closes* as temperatures heat up. I want to put something into my heater core line that closes about 10* hotter than my primary thermostat is set to open.

Does such a thing exist, or do I need to invent it?
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:04 PM   #2
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???????

Curious as to why.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:19 PM   #3
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you could use a solenoid inline to the heater core. it would need to be rated for water and 250*. simple trigger at a certain coolant temp and blamo, blocked off.
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:21 PM   #4
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Hyper?

jk
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:44 PM   #5
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Use a BMW-style bypass thermostat. Stant 13578. Problem solved.
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Old 05-26-2011, 11:55 PM   #6
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Because I'm still pissed off at my freeway coolant temps. I generally see about 220 at 80mph. With the extraction hood, it cools off to about 210, but is happy to go above 230 with the A/C on. I've tried just about every trick I can think of, and the only thing left for me to think is that either there's something seriously wrong with my cooling system, or else far too much water is finding its way through my heater core. If I blast the heater, coolant temps are happy at sub 200 all day long.

Koyo 37mm, ducting, covered hood latch area, M-Tuned reroute, belly pan, 60/40 water, FM Heat extraction hood, dual Spal fans.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
Because I'm still pissed off at my freeway coolant temps. I generally see about 220 at 80mph. With the extraction hood, it cools off to about 210, but is happy to go above 230 with the A/C on. I've tried just about every trick I can think of, and the only thing left for me to think is that either there's something seriously wrong with my cooling system, or else far too much water is finding its way through my heater core. If I blast the heater, coolant temps are happy at sub 200 all day long.

Koyo 37mm, ducting, covered hood latch area, M-Tuned reroute, belly pan, 60/40 water, FM Heat extraction hood, dual Spal fans.
Something is very wrong if you are cruising and the temps are that high. How is your lower radiator hose routed? Also where do you router the heater return back to?
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:12 AM   #8
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Lower radiator hose is a Napa flex hose with the coil spring in it - It's the hose that came with the FM kits before they decided to make their own silicone hoses. The heater core route is completely stock, though the metal pipe has been altered (slightly straightened) to route behind the dipstick tube instead of in front of it to keep the hoses a little further away from the turbo.
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:28 AM   #9
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You might want to possibly try routing the heater core line up to your upper radiator hose. I know Begi kits do it that way and when I had mine like that there were times in the winter when it would not even get up to operating temps. Here is a link to the Begi kit to give you some idea.
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:33 AM   #10
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I agree: something has to be wrong.
With all that **** you should have not a problem in the world keeping it sub 200
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Old 05-27-2011, 01:36 AM   #11
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I mean I have the standard reroute on my 94 with the heater core hose going to my bottom radiator hose. I was getting 195degrees cruising today doing 75mph in 95 degree weather. I plan on driving 500 miles tomorrow and I will watch and see what my temps are like.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:14 AM   #12
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Get bigger fans. ****...get a Taurus fan.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:17 AM   #13
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Fans aren't gonna do crap at 80mph...
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:34 AM   #14
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Is your thermostat stuck closed and you're relying on your fans to cool?
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Is your thermostat stuck closed and you're relying on your fans to cool?
He's doing 80mph! The fans aren't going to be pulling more air through the rad than is already forced through be sheer fact of the 80mph airspeed?!?
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:20 AM   #16
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I misread.


but it sounds like the water in the cooling system is not flowing through the radiator. When he turns on the heater, it finally makes its way through a heat exchanger.
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:35 PM   #17
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In winter, I had two 1/8 holes in a 160* thermostat (instead of the current one hole) and a 3/8" ID hose stuffed into my heater core line. The car would only make it to about 1/4 warm on really cold days - driving on the freeway exacerbated the problem. I can't do the racer reroute for this exact reason. I ended up taking the 3/8 hose out of the heater core line, and replacing the thermostat with a 180* thermostat and put a single 1/8 hole into it. Made my winter problems go away more or less. I wanted to put a closing thermostat into the heater core line after the heater core, with maybe a 1/16 hole in it, to close at about 190*. The idea would be that it would allow the car to warm up in OEM configuration, but once coolant hit 190, it would force all of the coolant through the radiator with the exception of a small trickle, which should keep the coolant in the heater core line at temp. Since the thermostat would be after the heater core, if I turned the heater on it would cool down that coolant and allow the thermostat to reopen allowing full use of the heater.

Thats my theory at least. I feel like it's much too easy for coolant to move through the heater core instead of the radiator.
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:46 PM   #18
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Sounds like you have some sort of blockage.
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:03 PM   #19
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I just went to the auto parts store to pick up a thermostat and I wasn't sure which to get, the 195 or the 180. I got both, but which one should I use?

My **** overheated today and was pegged beyond hot. I think the thermostat is sticking in mine cause it doesn't happen all the time. Just when it feels like ******* with me.
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:04 PM   #20
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195° is closest to stock.
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