Love the gas cap, you should get a nice o ring to seal it and keep it that way. It would be a nice 'conversation starter' at the gas pumps. :jerkit: I assume its got a weighted tube with the pickup filter on the end?

Very creative low buck solutions! Keep it going, I'm still waiting for donuts/ exh sound vid.

Weighted? Well the fuel pump seems to hold itself down there. It has a screen on the end. An inline pump will be used -IF- it's not too noisy. If that winds up anoying then I'll have to weld a small sump to the gas tank and locate the pump inside it.
The exhaust isn't as loud as you may think. The GSX-R mufflers do a damn good job of keeping it quiet. It just sounds like a car but at higher RPM you can make out some rapping. Think fart-canned Civic burried under 50 feet of hay. The bolts on the end caps are stuck but I'd like to drill them out and replace them so I can remove the baffles and try that out but still be able to put them back in. That's been the nice thing about this toy. I can do whateverthemuffins I want to it.

I made a new instrument cluster tonight. The speedo is easier to see and has 2 small gauges on either side for oil and temp. There's also a CEL and a high-beam indicator lamp. Two lighted red rocker switches for the headlights and offroad lights and the ignition switch is also on it. I have to rewire it but that's all part of the fun.

The vehicle will have 7 fuses and 5 relays.

They are:
1 - Coil/dist (relay) 10a
2 - Injector/solonoid (relay) 10a
3 - Fuel pump and starter (starter relay has neutral interlock) (relay x2) 15a
4 - Rad. fan (relay) 20a
5 - Headlights/running lights 20a
6 - Horn/Brake light/Turn signals 15a
7 - Offroad lights (4x55w) 20a

Once the relays are wired, I'll tape them together and pot the terminals in a brick. If a relay fails I can yank it and pop in a new one without worrying about which wire went where.

Here's what I had in mind for the instrument cluster. Speedo in the middle with temp and oil pressure next to it. Red light is CEL. Blue light is high-beam. The two small yellow LEDs are the turn signal indicators. The two switches are headlight/running lights on the left and offroad lights on the right. The headlights and offroad lights have power when the vehicle is off. Turn only has power with the key on. The high/low and turn signal switches are both center-off SPDT and will be located to the left of the steering wheel. The center-off on the high/low switch allows me to turn on the light switch (left cluster switch) for parking lights only. I have to pull the offroad light wiring out and replace it because someone only wired it in 16ga. There's 4 55w bulbs to light and the wire gets toasty.
I don't need a tach since the ECU has a 7500 redline which is safe enough. If I do add one later I'll use a micro tach and locate it near the steering wheel. I did pull a tach signal wire when I did the vehicle harness just in case.

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That looks compact and it makes sense, aluminum?

You could use a "shift light" type system like on the old fiesta's and that lights up ~500 rpm before fuel cut in lieu of a tach. Besides if you're redlining it you'll need wheelie bars before a tach :laugh:.

Yes it's aluminum but I can't find any 1.5" electronic gauges for it. :vash: Apperently Sun and Autometer are still living in the '50s when cars had dash room for half a dozen 2.5" mechanical gauges.

According to calculations, the engine is 18ft-lbs of torque away from a wheelie. Bump that clutch too much and it's going up though. lol

Everything but the fan and fuel pump relays is wired up. I still can't find 1-1/2" electronic oil and temp gauges. No other updates.

Prosport makes some 1-3/4" gauges...

1-3/4 bezel or total diameter?

I'm not sure. I don't actually have them. I just saw them when I was browsing for gauges.

If the OD of the gauge is 1-3/4 that would probably work but if it's just the gauge face that's 1-3/4 it wont. I couldn't find any data sheets on the site. Thanks though.

EDIT found some. Equus makes 1.5" electronic but it only comes in white face! -doh- Oh well. It'll have to do.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...RL._SS500_.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...QL._SS500_.jpg

Friction force = (coefficient of friction)(normal force). Of course, total normal force is a constant in relation to surface area, but as surface area increases "local" normal force decreases. The coefficient of friction of deformable pneumatic tires is a non-constant value dependent upon the applied "local" normal force, which means as more force is applied the coefficient of friction decreases. This means that a wider tire, which distributes force across its larger surface are, will do what is intuitive and stick more cuz of the more rubber and will not obey the laws of pseudo-physics.

I very much enjoyed reading this thread and think that not only is this going to be ridiculously fast, but with the correct suspension geometry could handle really really super amazingly awesome (as if anything weighing 1000lbs isnt going to handle decently as is) assuming you aren't planning on dual sporting in the sand...

A video!
 

My friend left his cam and cable here at the shop so I snapped a quick vid. There's a 18" flex pipe off the manifolds but nothing after that so it's kinda loud. Pardon the mess.

Working with video on a computer is a F#^%$ing pain in the A$$ :vash:

...one moment

Ok here we go. The two red lights are ALT(left) and CEL(right)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sv6Xwgm9RA

shift system pictures ;) ;)

Done. It's mocked up but working. I used conduit to test it. I need to pick up some more 3/4" tubing to make a new one that's one piece.

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Pure awesomeness.....

My wife is going to hate you for renewing my desire to build my own car. I see Lincoln has a mig pack 180 on for $600 with tons of accessories and it's almost my birthday hmm.

What did you use for the turn signals? I'm thinking it's all 626 parts for that considering that's the harness you used but is it?

Does the trans shift properly (grinding free) like that? I've seen a few $500 v6 626's lately but I think another project on the go will lead to being murdered in my sleep.

I can't wait to see this thing going down the road.

I have the HD3200 MIG but I wish I had a little more power. Going for a 220v welder next time.

The only Mazda wiring I used is the engine harness to the ECU from a Ford Probe GT. I used the Probe GT ECU also. I left the ECU connector and the engine connectors alone but everything else was traced out from schematics and manually wired in. I opened the harness to remove any unused wiring and wired in my own power, grounds, and signals to make it run. It took alot of time but worth it in the end. If you mean the turn signal switches? It's just a DPDT with center off toggle for both the turn and the high/low beam. It has to be manually shut off after a turn.

The trans shifts flawlessly. It feels just like stock. I cut about 1" off the shifter handle itself to lower the knob but other then that it's just a Protege shifter. It was very easy to modify into a universal shifter.

Here's a few more pictures and a video of the shifter movement.

Shifter video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isC28BJ51P8

One of the pictures is the throttle cable. What I did was cut the 626 cable sheath and threw away the cable. I then took a 3/8" bolt and cut off the head and the threads so I had a solid rod. I bored one end 1/4" for the Mazda sheath and 5/16" into the other end for the sandrail's sheath leaving 1/4" between the two holes inside the middle of the bolt. I then drilled through it 1/8" to allow the cable to pass. Each cable goes into the ends of the bolt and taped up. I bought 1/16" cable from Home Depot to use as the new throttle cable. For the throttle body connection I used a 6mm bolt and drilled a 1/16" hole through it for the cable then set it with a punch. It looks like a typical throttle end and holds tight.

There's some pics of the wiring harness's flying ends. I tagged them all as to their functions and ran my harness in the frame rails up to the cluster where the power distribution and relays are. I know it looks like a mess right now but it's all getting tucked away into a box behind the passenger's seat where the ECU will be located.

The 4 relays are:
-Ignition power (high side signaled from ign switch)
-Injection/solonoid power (high side signaled from ign switch)
-Fuel pump power (low side switched by ECU)
-Starter interlock (high side signaled from ign switch, low side switched by neutral switch)

The 6 fuses are:
-Ignition 10a (to ign relay)
-Injection/solonoids 10a (to inj relay)
-Fuel pump/starter 10a (to fuel pump relay and starter relay)
-Turn/brake/horn/relay power 20a (turn/brake/horn off ign acc position(off while cranking). Relay power off ign terminal of ign switch)
-Head/parking/dash lights 20a
-ECU memory 3a

A 7th 20a inline fuse feeds the offroad lights.

An 8th 20a fuse will be located in the ECU box to provide power to the fan relays which will also be located in the ECU box.

The last pic is the bracket I made to use a Honda Civic's AC tensioner as my water pump belt tensioner. I removed the power steering pump so I needed to add an idler in it's place since that belt drove the water pump. It was easier to do it that way then to relocate the alternator. The alternator has it's own belt and tensioner. I still need to make a couple spacers for it.


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I made some struts tonight. It's the 626 strut with the lower spring hat cut off. I used two different sized hole saws to make a washer to fit over the strut for the bottom of the spring to sit on. I used Civic springs and the Ford EXP hats from the old struts. It has about 5" of travel to the bump stop then about 1" more when it squishes. The frame is 1" from the ground when the struts bottom out.

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Lets here some color ideas. Give me ideas for the chassis color and accent color. Like purple/yellow.

I'm kinda thinking green/yellow or yellow/green.

Here's pics of yellow and green ones. I really like the green one. I like Kawasaki and Arctic cat too. ^_^

http://media.motortopia.com/files/16...sandrail-1.jpg
http://www.sandrocket.com/img/pix_ma...ard-green2.jpg

What about kawi green and a tan for accent? Might look better with a darker green.

So no body panels in final assembly?

Do you have access to a piranha (or equivalent) or is all your cutting chop saw? They are a useful machine for small parts and cutting / shaping rod.

I dunno about tan. The final will have bodywork on it but I need to find a better way to attach it so it doesn't sound like a thunderstorm over every bump.

All I have is a sawzall, pneumatic cutoff wheels, sander, an angle grinder, and a 120v mig. I don't have any large machinery (not even a chop saw or metal bandsaw) but I have friends in the business who can help with complicated pieces but I don't call on them often. Most of this can be done by hand but it takes alot more time.

Do alum panels with lots of pop rivets with rubber insulators? If your adventurous try a heat gun and abs (or other plastic of choice) to bend up your own uber-light plastic body?

Good on ya for doing it by hand, that was how my last project (truckless boat launch/ retrieval rig) was done, though I had an ancient chop saw to use. That project is why I want a 220v welder (and a real shop), my dad's 88A mastercraft mig on 3/16th steel, using flux core worked but it wasn't the prettiest.

Warning... Crude math. No flaming. Only advice.

The front end of this chassis at the front axle weighs 310lbs. The front axle is 100" away from the rear axle. A rider weighs 200lb and is 36" from the rear axle.

wheelie>(100-12)/12)*310)+(36-12)/12)*200) = 2673.3ft-lb To lift the front end.

The engine is 160ft-lb torque through a 3.307 first and a 4.388 final.

160*3.307*4.388 = 2321.78ft-lb At the axle.

The difference.

(2673.3-2321.78)/(3.307*4.388) = 24.22ft-lb

The engine is only 24.22ft-lb away from a wheelie

If the engine's 160ft-lb is made with 14.7psia then

(14.7/160)*(160+24.22)-14.7 = 2.23psig of boost for a wheelie.

I'd like to make a plastic body for it but large sheets get pricy. Plus finding the right color. :greddy:

The rear wheels are on the ground! \:D/ The strut towers are as good as I can get them without fabing up jigs and all that crap. I just made sure I cut the same sized pieces for both sides and tacked them in first. The travel itself is AMAZINGLY smooth. I can't wait to drive it.
I was stuck choosing between the 626's front and rear struts. The rears had much more travel but the top mounts would have been too high. I went with the smaller front struts because I could make the civic springs fit them. I trimmed the bumps to give me a little more travel.

Oh and it weighs 1085lbs without the radiator/coolant

For your wheelie math, is the weight of the front of the chassis measured by putting scales under the front tires?

I wouldn't take it as far as 2.xx psi of boost would produce a wheelie but more that at 200ftlbs it would be possible (or a clutch dump?). I think there are more variables needed to calculate the exact 'wheelie tipping point' because you are not considering that things are spread along the chassis acting with different leverages.

Good rough estimate, I'd still think about putting shorty bars on in case you hit a bump with the front end and hit the gas. Too bad we're not closer it sounds like I might be light enough to get a wheelie out of it as it sits.

If you were to do thin alum it could look like a mutated 30's race car, louvered engine bay and all.

There is a guy I know who drives a vw powered buggy wit no body just a small windshield. He doesn't take it long distances very often but has brought it to town (1.5 hr drive) to show me a couple times. His is a red similar to the rb swaybars.

What spread along the chassis? forces? The math for the torque is right. The boost is estimated but for the most part it's fairly accurate. If VE and timing were constant it would be 100% accurate.

The only things I can't account for are rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag. Once the front end is up it takes less power to hold it there. A bump could very well bop it into a wheelie. So will a hard launch. Gotta love that flywheel.

I meant your personal weight wouldn't be entirely at the 36" mark as your legs go towards the front. Thus there is a point further towards the front axle than the 36" mark where the centre of your mass in a seated position would actually be, though not much further.

Sorry I didn't make that clear, no flame intended.

None taken. This is all guesstimate math anyways. ;)

There's no way in a million years I'll ever get these strut towers straight. I'm just going to goober on some scraps to hold it long enough for me to get it to Alston and have Mike take a look at it. I'm sure they have WAY more measuring equipment then I do. Like an angle finder? heh. Maybe they can weld upside down too.

Anyone want to buy a laptop so I can afford enough ky?

Where the hell in Illinois are you located? I just saw a picture of this thing in one of my friends facebook photo albums.

I'm from Antioch. The shop is in Lake Villa.

Here's the video you've all been waiting for. Sorry about it being shot at night. I'll get another tomorrow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1CsMw3H4yY

Thank DIVX convertor for fukin it up and chopping the image size.

The cops are after you!

I haven't seen them...yet. :laugh: At the 4th of July fireworks they were directing traffic. They pointed and laughed when they saw it.

Well... Other then the valve stems hitting the calipers (wheels on backwards) all seems well. I need to get a tubing notcher so I can make symmetrical pieces for the strut mounts. Those are/were the hardest part. One is 1/4" off. o.O

Video fixed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1CsMw3H4yY

I found a solution for strut towers that'll be lighter, stronger, look good, and more of all they will be straight! Pics soon...

Did you try dumping the clutch to get the front end up or not ready to wreck it yet?

BTW That is LOUD!!!

Well yeh. lol It's running open pipes. I have since rigged a 2-1 into a single muffler until I can get to the muffler shop to have the gsx-r pipes put on. I have to have the strut towers finished first to make room for them.

This morning the water pump started leaking. All this work for something so stupid to fail. Guess I should do the timing belt and pullies while I'm in there. $$$$$ GRRRRR! :vash: There's also a funny noise coming from the rear when I give it throttle. Like a errr--errr--errr--errr--errr. I hope it's not trans related. It's in time with the axle rotation and not a wheel bearing or CV. It sounds like gear whine. Final reduction maybe.

No wheelies under WOT. Front feels light as hell though. I'm scared. :giggle:

Oh and both VRIS solinoids were bad. As well as the FPR solinoid. Can't Mazda make a solinoid worth a sh... Oh yeh. Mitsubishi made them.
:bowrofl: Either that or the 15.2v the alternator is putting out cooked them. Maybe I shouldn't have dropped that screw in it.

...and this is why you wear safety goggles! x.O The garage door was up and yeh, my goggles were on. :)

Attachment 195795

Here's a couple shots of the strut mounts I've been working on. They will be fairly strong on their own without the need for a frame tube off the top. If anything, they may have a tendency to move inward but a strut bar would solve that issue. I made 2 of each piece and they are symmetrical. Both sides will be exactly where they need to be in reference to the chassis. Hopefully that's straight. I will punch some large holes in the plates to take off some weight and make it look a bit less crude.

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That must have been a shock when the cutting disc broke.....

Are you going to do final welding on those towers with your 110 welder, or does a friend (/ friend's welder) help with the bigger jobs?

My 110v MIG's limit is about 3/16" but I can't feed it too fast or it won't burn the wire. It takes awhile to fill gaps though. If you notice the corners are open corner joints. It takes some filling but can be rounded off with a grinder and retain it's strength. The welds won't be a problem. I do have a friend with a TIG that I'm going to borrow to pool the visable welds to the frame tubes just for cosmetic reasons.

One tower is welded on now. With my friend jumping up and down I can feel movement between the two. I held a straight edge against one side and allowed it to slide on the other. I can't see it moving but I can feel it. I might be able to incorporate a brace into my tail light mounts or even fab a typical "strut-bar" brace. Fine for the street but landings might be a bit hard on it. Assuming I'm airborn for some reason. ;)

updated pics??

Coming... I don't have my camera with me today. I've only been buttoning up some of the little things like the battery hold down. Next will be exhaust but I haven't decided for sure on the gsx-r pipes. They're kinda big. I took one apart tonight to see if it could be shortened. Only thing I could do to is cut/re-weld somewhere in the middle. I was hoping the ends would come off without a problem but the aluminum outer can is rolled over steel inserts.

I've put a few miles on it already. It's a blast to drive. Feels like boost and scoots even in the higher gears. Feels great starting in second. First gets it moving so quickly it's almost useless. I don't have the speedometer yet so I have no idea how fast it's going. Monday I'm ordering the oil and temp gauges so I can get that instrument cluster finished. I forgot to make room for a gas gauge! -doh!- :facepalm:

Ug... I think my friend is loosing the shop so I'll have to wait to button up everything. My son is here visiting and on the next joy ride I'll get some in-car video. No speedo yet so you'll have to guess how fast it is like I do. :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AACd9YZlh5E

If you can live past the music, you will enjoy it... please be patient the sound is sweeet with custom cams!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkFsk...eature=related

This one is a shorter clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE_yX...eature=related

This is a good one, but the end is hillarious!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Is6u...eature=related

There is no need for boosted with Ze and a good combo of pistons, cams, valves...

I've seen those vids of that car. Crazy sound. I love it.