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Old 07-13-2010, 08:50 AM   #61
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Love the gas cap, you should get a nice o ring to seal it and keep it that way. It would be a nice 'conversation starter' at the gas pumps. I assume its got a weighted tube with the pickup filter on the end?

Very creative low buck solutions! Keep it going, I'm still waiting for donuts/ exh sound vid.
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Old 07-13-2010, 09:31 AM   #62
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Love the gas cap, you should get a nice o ring to seal it and keep it that way. It would be a nice 'conversation starter' at the gas pumps. I assume its got a weighted tube with the pickup filter on the end?

Very creative low buck solutions! Keep it going, I'm still waiting for donuts/ exh sound vid.
Weighted? Well the fuel pump seems to hold itself down there. It has a screen on the end. An inline pump will be used -IF- it's not too noisy. If that winds up anoying then I'll have to weld a small sump to the gas tank and locate the pump inside it.
The exhaust isn't as loud as you may think. The GSX-R mufflers do a damn good job of keeping it quiet. It just sounds like a car but at higher RPM you can make out some rapping. Think fart-canned Civic burried under 50 feet of hay. The bolts on the end caps are stuck but I'd like to drill them out and replace them so I can remove the baffles and try that out but still be able to put them back in. That's been the nice thing about this toy. I can do whateverthemuffins I want to it.

I made a new instrument cluster tonight. The speedo is easier to see and has 2 small gauges on either side for oil and temp. There's also a CEL and a high-beam indicator lamp. Two lighted red rocker switches for the headlights and offroad lights and the ignition switch is also on it. I have to rewire it but that's all part of the fun.

The vehicle will have 7 fuses and 5 relays.

They are:
1 - Coil/dist (relay) 10a
2 - Injector/solonoid (relay) 10a
3 - Fuel pump and starter (starter relay has neutral interlock) (relay x2) 15a
4 - Rad. fan (relay) 20a
5 - Headlights/running lights 20a
6 - Horn/Brake light/Turn signals 15a
7 - Offroad lights (4x55w) 20a

Once the relays are wired, I'll tape them together and pot the terminals in a brick. If a relay fails I can yank it and pop in a new one without worrying about which wire went where.
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:50 AM   #63
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Here's what I had in mind for the instrument cluster. Speedo in the middle with temp and oil pressure next to it. Red light is CEL. Blue light is high-beam. The two small yellow LEDs are the turn signal indicators. The two switches are headlight/running lights on the left and offroad lights on the right. The headlights and offroad lights have power when the vehicle is off. Turn only has power with the key on. The high/low and turn signal switches are both center-off SPDT and will be located to the left of the steering wheel. The center-off on the high/low switch allows me to turn on the light switch (left cluster switch) for parking lights only. I have to pull the offroad light wiring out and replace it because someone only wired it in 16ga. There's 4 55w bulbs to light and the wire gets toasty.
I don't need a tach since the ECU has a 7500 redline which is safe enough. If I do add one later I'll use a micro tach and locate it near the steering wheel. I did pull a tach signal wire when I did the vehicle harness just in case.

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Old 07-14-2010, 04:11 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by lazzer408 View Post
Here's what I had in mind for the instrument cluster.
That looks compact and it makes sense, aluminum?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lazzer408 View Post
I don't need a tach since the ECU has a 7500 redline which is safe enough. If I do add one later I'll use a micro tach and locate it near the steering wheel. I did pull a tach signal wire when I did the vehicle harness just in case.
You could use a "shift light" type system like on the old fiesta's and that lights up ~500 rpm before fuel cut in lieu of a tach. Besides if you're redlining it you'll need wheelie bars before a tach .
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:59 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by inferno94 View Post
That looks compact and it makes sense, aluminum?



You could use a "shift light" type system like on the old fiesta's and that lights up ~500 rpm before fuel cut in lieu of a tach. Besides if you're redlining it you'll need wheelie bars before a tach .
Yes it's aluminum but I can't find any 1.5" electronic gauges for it. Apperently Sun and Autometer are still living in the '50s when cars had dash room for half a dozen 2.5" mechanical gauges.

According to calculations, the engine is 18ft-lbs of torque away from a wheelie. Bump that clutch too much and it's going up though. lol
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:11 AM   #66
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Everything but the fan and fuel pump relays is wired up. I still can't find 1-1/2" electronic oil and temp gauges. No other updates.
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:22 AM   #67
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Prosport makes some 1-3/4" gauges...
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:23 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by TurboRoach View Post
Prosport makes some 1-3/4" gauges...
1-3/4 bezel or total diameter?
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:00 AM   #69
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I'm not sure. I don't actually have them. I just saw them when I was browsing for gauges.
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Old 07-15-2010, 06:39 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by TurboRoach View Post
I'm not sure. I don't actually have them. I just saw them when I was browsing for gauges.
If the OD of the gauge is 1-3/4 that would probably work but if it's just the gauge face that's 1-3/4 it wont. I couldn't find any data sheets on the site. Thanks though.

EDIT found some. Equus makes 1.5" electronic but it only comes in white face! -doh- Oh well. It'll have to do.




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Old 07-16-2010, 01:44 AM   #71
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Wider tires of the same tire compound dont offer any more traction, force and friction are independent of surface area. although their may be improvements in handling due to stronger sidewalls and keeping more contact with uneven surfaces.
Friction force = (coefficient of friction)(normal force). Of course, total normal force is a constant in relation to surface area, but as surface area increases "local" normal force decreases. The coefficient of friction of deformable pneumatic tires is a non-constant value dependent upon the applied "local" normal force, which means as more force is applied the coefficient of friction decreases. This means that a wider tire, which distributes force across its larger surface are, will do what is intuitive and stick more cuz of the more rubber and will not obey the laws of pseudo-physics.

I very much enjoyed reading this thread and think that not only is this going to be ridiculously fast, but with the correct suspension geometry could handle really really super amazingly awesome (as if anything weighing 1000lbs isnt going to handle decently as is) assuming you aren't planning on dual sporting in the sand...
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Old 07-16-2010, 03:44 AM   #72
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Default A video!

My friend left his cam and cable here at the shop so I snapped a quick vid. There's a 18" flex pipe off the manifolds but nothing after that so it's kinda loud. Pardon the mess.

Working with video on a computer is a F#^%$ing pain in the A$$

...one moment

Ok here we go. The two red lights are ALT(left) and CEL(right)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sv6Xwgm9RA

Last edited by lazzer408; 07-16-2010 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 07-16-2010, 04:59 AM   #73
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shift system pictures
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Old 07-16-2010, 05:03 AM   #74
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shift system pictures
Done. It's mocked up but working. I used conduit to test it. I need to pick up some more 3/4" tubing to make a new one that's one piece.

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Last edited by lazzer408; 07-16-2010 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:00 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by lazzer408 View Post
My friend left his cam and cable here at the shop so I snapped a quick vid.
Pure awesomeness.....

My wife is going to hate you for renewing my desire to build my own car. I see Lincoln has a mig pack 180 on for $600 with tons of accessories and it's almost my birthday hmm.

What did you use for the turn signals? I'm thinking it's all 626 parts for that considering that's the harness you used but is it?

Does the trans shift properly (grinding free) like that? I've seen a few $500 v6 626's lately but I think another project on the go will lead to being murdered in my sleep.

I can't wait to see this thing going down the road.
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:17 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by inferno94 View Post
Pure awesomeness.....

My wife is going to hate you for renewing my desire to build my own car. I see Lincoln has a mig pack 180 on for $600 with tons of accessories and it's almost my birthday hmm.

What did you use for the turn signals? I'm thinking it's all 626 parts for that considering that's the harness you used but is it?

Does the trans shift properly (grinding free) like that? I've seen a few $500 v6 626's lately but I think another project on the go will lead to being murdered in my sleep.

I can't wait to see this thing going down the road.
I have the HD3200 MIG but I wish I had a little more power. Going for a 220v welder next time.

The only Mazda wiring I used is the engine harness to the ECU from a Ford Probe GT. I used the Probe GT ECU also. I left the ECU connector and the engine connectors alone but everything else was traced out from schematics and manually wired in. I opened the harness to remove any unused wiring and wired in my own power, grounds, and signals to make it run. It took alot of time but worth it in the end. If you mean the turn signal switches? It's just a DPDT with center off toggle for both the turn and the high/low beam. It has to be manually shut off after a turn.

The trans shifts flawlessly. It feels just like stock. I cut about 1" off the shifter handle itself to lower the **** but other then that it's just a Protege shifter. It was very easy to modify into a universal shifter.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:17 PM   #77
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Here's a few more pictures and a video of the shifter movement.

Shifter video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isC28BJ51P8

One of the pictures is the throttle cable. What I did was cut the 626 cable sheath and threw away the cable. I then took a 3/8" bolt and cut off the head and the threads so I had a solid rod. I bored one end 1/4" for the Mazda sheath and 5/16" into the other end for the sandrail's sheath leaving 1/4" between the two holes inside the middle of the bolt. I then drilled through it 1/8" to allow the cable to pass. Each cable goes into the ends of the bolt and taped up. I bought 1/16" cable from Home Depot to use as the new throttle cable. For the throttle body connection I used a 6mm bolt and drilled a 1/16" hole through it for the cable then set it with a punch. It looks like a typical throttle end and holds tight.

There's some pics of the wiring harness's flying ends. I tagged them all as to their functions and ran my harness in the frame rails up to the cluster where the power distribution and relays are. I know it looks like a mess right now but it's all getting tucked away into a box behind the passenger's seat where the ECU will be located.

The 4 relays are:
-Ignition power (high side signaled from ign switch)
-Injection/solonoid power (high side signaled from ign switch)
-Fuel pump power (low side switched by ECU)
-Starter interlock (high side signaled from ign switch, low side switched by neutral switch)

The 6 fuses are:
-Ignition 10a (to ign relay)
-Injection/solonoids 10a (to inj relay)
-Fuel pump/starter 10a (to fuel pump relay and starter relay)
-Turn/brake/horn/relay power 20a (turn/brake/horn off ign acc position(off while cranking). Relay power off ign terminal of ign switch)
-Head/parking/dash lights 20a
-ECU memory 3a

A 7th 20a inline fuse feeds the offroad lights.

An 8th 20a fuse will be located in the ECU box to provide power to the fan relays which will also be located in the ECU box.

The last pic is the bracket I made to use a Honda Civic's AC tensioner as my water pump belt tensioner. I removed the power steering pump so I needed to add an idler in it's place since that belt drove the water pump. It was easier to do it that way then to relocate the alternator. The alternator has it's own belt and tensioner. I still need to make a couple spacers for it.


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Old 07-17-2010, 05:44 AM   #78
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I made some struts tonight. It's the 626 strut with the lower spring hat cut off. I used two different sized hole saws to make a washer to fit over the strut for the bottom of the spring to sit on. I used Civic springs and the Ford EXP hats from the old struts. It has about 5" of travel to the bump stop then about 1" more when it squishes. The frame is 1" from the ground when the struts bottom out.

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Old 07-17-2010, 07:59 AM   #79
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Lets here some color ideas. Give me ideas for the chassis color and accent color. Like purple/yellow.

I'm kinda thinking green/yellow or yellow/green.

Here's pics of yellow and green ones. I really like the green one. I like Kawasaki and Arctic cat too. ^_^


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Old 07-17-2010, 05:00 PM   #80
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Lets here some color ideas. Give me ideas for the chassis color and accent color. I'm kinda thinking green/yellow or yellow/green.
What about kawi green and a tan for accent? Might look better with a darker green.

So no body panels in final assembly?

Do you have access to a piranha (or equivalent) or is all your cutting chop saw? They are a useful machine for small parts and cutting / shaping rod.
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