I dunno about tan. The final will have bodywork on it but I need to find a better way to attach it so it doesn't sound like a thunderstorm over every bump.

All I have is a sawzall, pneumatic cutoff wheels, sander, an angle grinder, and a 120v mig. I don't have any large machinery (not even a chop saw or metal bandsaw) but I have friends in the business who can help with complicated pieces but I don't call on them often. Most of this can be done by hand but it takes alot more time.

Do alum panels with lots of pop rivets with rubber insulators? If your adventurous try a heat gun and abs (or other plastic of choice) to bend up your own uber-light plastic body?

Good on ya for doing it by hand, that was how my last project (truckless boat launch/ retrieval rig) was done, though I had an ancient chop saw to use. That project is why I want a 220v welder (and a real shop), my dad's 88A mastercraft mig on 3/16th steel, using flux core worked but it wasn't the prettiest.

Warning... Crude math. No flaming. Only advice.

The front end of this chassis at the front axle weighs 310lbs. The front axle is 100" away from the rear axle. A rider weighs 200lb and is 36" from the rear axle.

wheelie>(100-12)/12)*310)+(36-12)/12)*200) = 2673.3ft-lb To lift the front end.

The engine is 160ft-lb torque through a 3.307 first and a 4.388 final.

160*3.307*4.388 = 2321.78ft-lb At the axle.

The difference.

(2673.3-2321.78)/(3.307*4.388) = 24.22ft-lb

The engine is only 24.22ft-lb away from a wheelie

If the engine's 160ft-lb is made with 14.7psia then

(14.7/160)*(160+24.22)-14.7 = 2.23psig of boost for a wheelie.

I'd like to make a plastic body for it but large sheets get pricy. Plus finding the right color. :greddy:

The rear wheels are on the ground! \:D/ The strut towers are as good as I can get them without fabing up jigs and all that crap. I just made sure I cut the same sized pieces for both sides and tacked them in first. The travel itself is AMAZINGLY smooth. I can't wait to drive it.
I was stuck choosing between the 626's front and rear struts. The rears had much more travel but the top mounts would have been too high. I went with the smaller front struts because I could make the civic springs fit them. I trimmed the bumps to give me a little more travel.

Oh and it weighs 1085lbs without the radiator/coolant

For your wheelie math, is the weight of the front of the chassis measured by putting scales under the front tires?

I wouldn't take it as far as 2.xx psi of boost would produce a wheelie but more that at 200ftlbs it would be possible (or a clutch dump?). I think there are more variables needed to calculate the exact 'wheelie tipping point' because you are not considering that things are spread along the chassis acting with different leverages.

Good rough estimate, I'd still think about putting shorty bars on in case you hit a bump with the front end and hit the gas. Too bad we're not closer it sounds like I might be light enough to get a wheelie out of it as it sits.

If you were to do thin alum it could look like a mutated 30's race car, louvered engine bay and all.

There is a guy I know who drives a vw powered buggy wit no body just a small windshield. He doesn't take it long distances very often but has brought it to town (1.5 hr drive) to show me a couple times. His is a red similar to the rb swaybars.

What spread along the chassis? forces? The math for the torque is right. The boost is estimated but for the most part it's fairly accurate. If VE and timing were constant it would be 100% accurate.

The only things I can't account for are rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag. Once the front end is up it takes less power to hold it there. A bump could very well bop it into a wheelie. So will a hard launch. Gotta love that flywheel.

I meant your personal weight wouldn't be entirely at the 36" mark as your legs go towards the front. Thus there is a point further towards the front axle than the 36" mark where the centre of your mass in a seated position would actually be, though not much further.

Sorry I didn't make that clear, no flame intended.

None taken. This is all guesstimate math anyways. ;)

There's no way in a million years I'll ever get these strut towers straight. I'm just going to goober on some scraps to hold it long enough for me to get it to Alston and have Mike take a look at it. I'm sure they have WAY more measuring equipment then I do. Like an angle finder? heh. Maybe they can weld upside down too.

Anyone want to buy a laptop so I can afford enough ky?

Where the hell in Illinois are you located? I just saw a picture of this thing in one of my friends facebook photo albums.

I'm from Antioch. The shop is in Lake Villa.

Here's the video you've all been waiting for. Sorry about it being shot at night. I'll get another tomorrow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1CsMw3H4yY

Thank DIVX convertor for fukin it up and chopping the image size.

The cops are after you!

I haven't seen them...yet. :laugh: At the 4th of July fireworks they were directing traffic. They pointed and laughed when they saw it.

Well... Other then the valve stems hitting the calipers (wheels on backwards) all seems well. I need to get a tubing notcher so I can make symmetrical pieces for the strut mounts. Those are/were the hardest part. One is 1/4" off. o.O

Video fixed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1CsMw3H4yY

I found a solution for strut towers that'll be lighter, stronger, look good, and more of all they will be straight! Pics soon...

Did you try dumping the clutch to get the front end up or not ready to wreck it yet?

BTW That is LOUD!!!

Well yeh. lol It's running open pipes. I have since rigged a 2-1 into a single muffler until I can get to the muffler shop to have the gsx-r pipes put on. I have to have the strut towers finished first to make room for them.

This morning the water pump started leaking. All this work for something so stupid to fail. Guess I should do the timing belt and pullies while I'm in there. $$$$$ GRRRRR! :vash: There's also a funny noise coming from the rear when I give it throttle. Like a errr--errr--errr--errr--errr. I hope it's not trans related. It's in time with the axle rotation and not a wheel bearing or CV. It sounds like gear whine. Final reduction maybe.

No wheelies under WOT. Front feels light as hell though. I'm scared. :giggle:

Oh and both VRIS solinoids were bad. As well as the FPR solinoid. Can't Mazda make a solinoid worth a sh... Oh yeh. Mitsubishi made them.
:bowrofl: Either that or the 15.2v the alternator is putting out cooked them. Maybe I shouldn't have dropped that screw in it.

...and this is why you wear safety goggles! x.O The garage door was up and yeh, my goggles were on. :)

Attachment 195795

Here's a couple shots of the strut mounts I've been working on. They will be fairly strong on their own without the need for a frame tube off the top. If anything, they may have a tendency to move inward but a strut bar would solve that issue. I made 2 of each piece and they are symmetrical. Both sides will be exactly where they need to be in reference to the chassis. Hopefully that's straight. I will punch some large holes in the plates to take off some weight and make it look a bit less crude.

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