Guys, you're scaring the children!

 

Don't worry, if we do this right by the time we are done with this thread OP will be on WebMB convinced he has a brain tumor.

 

Ooops. Sorry. Still mad about the camshaft in my G8.

 

 

Yes, I do haha. Oil pressure isn't bad. Definitely acceptable. I will drain the mobil1 soon enough.

 

Oh, and you ***** are going to have to do a hell of a lot more. Not new to the Miata game, nor any of y'all's bullshit lol. I do appreciate the input though.

 

How'd you **** up a cam in an LS based car?

 

I run M1 10w30 in my built 99 with no issues, nice and quiet.

I would also check lash if that's where you think the noise is coming from. Easy enough to check, not so much if they're actually out of spec.

 

He drives an NA6 with a Greddy, I assume the LS couldn't handle the transference of pent up aggression that would cause

(Actually I have mad respect for Mr Hornet, I'm obviously just jelly)

But seriously, a valve cover gasket and a set of feeler gauges should be on your shopping list. Its a fairly easy thing to diagnose in an hour, though correction will take a bit longer.

 

IIRC, He used the recommended OEM Fuel Economy Friendly 0w20 water and had it fail under warranty.

Switched to some of sixshooter's jizzed out T6, and no more problems.

 

It's the L76 with the lifters that shut down cylinders. Very, very common (on trucks and SUVs too). Fancy lifters + lousy oil . . . .

If you have an 85 Z28, I sure hope you've moved on from car-spec oil.

 

People tell me I'm very intimidating. I'm oblivious to it. I guess aggression is just part of the DNA, and I drive Greddy'd NA6s to stroke it.

 

Fair enough, I completely forgot about GM's fuel saving attempts. And I don't have it anymore, although after seeing what has happened to it, I wish I hadn't let it go.

 

I wondered how they managed that on a single cam engine. Now I've got to go read about it.

I use 15w40 in my 350 TPI IROC w/ the large truck filter. Doesn't get driven. Long-term project at this point. Stupid T-Tops. Should have gotten a hardtop car.... Been tempted to sell it, but what 85z28 said.

Or something like that....

 

On a related note, should valves on a rebuilt BP4W head still be noisy 2,000 miles later? The builder is saying it's because he used double valve springs, and they'll bed in, but this sounds like it's not all the valves and that it isn't going any quieter.

 

Oooh fancy. Any pics or parts list on the head work?

 

BARMY: From what I understand, the new valve train will 'seat' a little, which is exactly why you need to check those clearances again. This is something you can do yourself with simple tools and without getting the machine shop involved. Id absolutly do it for piece of mind, at least to eliminate variables. It might have been at the top or bottom of the clearance spec and now it's slightly out. It's just kinda the nature of the beast with solid lifters.

Go look up the process for adjusting rocker arms on old school American iron V8s, and not the ones with the fancy new adjustable roller rockers. Itll make you glad we only have to deal with shims.

 

Your car very much as mine did a few weeks ago. Same color, ride height etc. Then had to sell the hardtop to contribute to the motor rebuild. Sold the black 6ULs as they were only 7.5s and I needed 8s to clear the bigger brakes. Added a cheaper rear spoiler to replace the OEM one sold years ago.

Anyway, no pics of the head work. It was simply a rebuilt cleaned up BP4W head with one replaced valve, one replaced cam and new Eibach double valve springs. The original head was discovered not to be capable of being made true just with a skim as the whole thing had been so overheated that the bearing journals were also out of true.

Please understand I'm a mere car salesman translating what the spannermen have told me by the way, so accept that some of my terminology may be wrong.

I badly phrased my comment about the valve noise. What I meant was that it's all valve noise, but it doesn't seem as if all the valves are noisy.