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Old 04-21-2010, 11:24 AM   #21
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Put a 2J in it and run the hell out of it. Like this.
As long as you don't mind the engine out the hood a little.

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Last edited by Sean; 04-22-2010 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saboteur View Post
I agree - I just went to a 6 speed but kept the 4.1 diff and now the first three gears are wild in the rain on KU36 tyres. With the old setup I would have to try pretty hard to get 2nd to spin when going straight ahead.
That would be way to short and useless at my power level. Even worse if I raise it.

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Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
You know nothing about drifting....stop it.

For everyone else-
There is a method to getting good wheel spin. You see, being able to control a high angle, big smoky slide comes down to wheel speed vs actual vehicle speed. Transmission gearing determines what rpm range you'll be in...rear gear ratio determines how long you will be there.. If the rear gear is too short, there is less difference between wheels speed and forward movement - this makes for low angle/high speed drifts. To have more control of a slide...to help control higher angles and to make speed more controllable, you want to stay in the powerband longer...which is achieved with a lower rear gear ratio. Yeah sure, a short 4.1 or 4.3 might be good for lower hp cars, but above the 300rwhp mark, it'll end up making things more difficult.

Jeff- Since we all know 240s are great at these shenanigans, have you thought about looking into the gear ratios of their transmissions vs their rearends? I'm wondering if getting close to what they have would be helpful.

I have not looked into them, but we do seem to be using the same gears on course.
I honestly think a 5-spd would be the way to go with the 3.6 BUT as we all know, different courses require different things...sometimes you'll find the gearing in the 6spd useful, sometimes a 5spd will have the advantage......have you thought about tossing ina 5-spd just to get a feel for the gearing? Maybe during practice try switching transmissions to see what works best? (Yes, I know the 5-spd can shew through gears in higher hp applications...but at least they're cheap...maybe do some testing to see how long one will last for you?).

I had the 5 speed with the stock rears in there. I believe they were the 4.1. It felt almost identical with the 6 speed gear wise. It sure shifted a **** ton nicer too. I think the 5 speed with the 3.6s will be wayyy to long. It would probably be nice if I had 400hp/400tq
Also, 5 speed may last me an event. usually they dont. I would have to change the trans mid event and thats not OK LOL.. The 2 I tried didnt fair very well.

As for using a bottle to help you.... it wouldn't be al lthat hard...just a small shot (50-75) via a RPM window switch to only allow it to hit at like 2,500 rpm to 4,500 rpm only at WOT......no more complicated than doing water/meth injection.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
Why not a 3.909?
thought sbout it if I could run my rpms up higher to like 8500 or 9000

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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Sav is right, the log is horrible for your power level. The majority of the pulse energy from each port is lost in a log and that is a huge consideration at your power levels. In a log the pulses are dissipated into abrupt corners or even crash into each other. Their energy is converted from force to heat. If the pulses are directed into the turbine housing with as few direction changes and as few flow restrictions as possible you will see substantial improvements in spool and power will be up across the board with no other changes. An added benefit of using a low mount unit such as the ABSURDflow will be a less restrictive downpipe design due to the removal of abrupt bends. Even Hustler reported substantial spool and power gains when he changed over.



+1 for porting the head as well. Just as with improving flow with the EM, improving flow through the head will net appreciable results. The engine is just a fancy air pump and the more air you can move through it, the more fuel you will be able to use and the more power you will be able to make.

I think you would benefit from a slightly larger turbo if you make these other enhancements and you choose the correct A/Rs. You can spool a larger capacity turbo at the same or lower RPMs and make significantly more power at the same boost levels if you choose correctly. I have no specific recommendations because that would require a combination of anecdotal evidence and a bit of study with compressor and turbine maps.

I understand your unwillingness to add nitrous as an additional level of complexity. I think you should remedy the basic shortcomings of your system first.

Have you spent any time plotting compressors here? http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/index.php
You may need to change quite a few of the initial settings to obtain accurate figures so study each of them for possible adjustments (BSFC, etc.). As they say, garbage in, garbage out.

What size intercooler are you using?
I have 880 injectors.
I am def moving toward a tubular manifold. I have a buddy that does awesome work and can make me one at a great price.

I know I also need to look into a better intake manifold.

Getting a 3071r has also crossed my mind several times. I just worry about the spooling. I know with efficiencies being increase that the larger turbo may spool the same if not better.

I would like to be able to be running lower boost.

What about running C16

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean View Post
Put a 2J in it and hell the hell out of it. Like this.
As long as you don't mind the engine out the hood a little.



ha ha if it wasnt so bulky and heavey I would think about it.

If i am going to swap an engine it will be an LSmodel

Thanks everyone.

I am going to call a few places up and talk turbo size..
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:36 AM   #23
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3-rotors make good torque too
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:32 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doppelgänger View Post
3-rotors make good torque too
and they make the miata engine bay look freakin huge.
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:19 AM   #25
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Try to get a Beatrush PPF brace. It'll definitely help the 6spd suck less.

Start reading at post #200 here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...sh+ppf&page=10
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:57 AM   #26
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There is no magic turbo that's going to spool at 3500rpm and make 400whp through a stock intake manifold and a crappy log manifold. You need an aftermarket IM, a tubular exhaust manifold, and good headwork. Honestly, I'd pick up a TiAL .86 housing for your current turbo, build an exhaust manifold around that, get an intake manifold on the car, and then decide if you want to step into a 3071R or a 3076R. Don't change the turbo first, it's not going to do you any good at all.
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:52 PM   #27
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Got ya Savington. I wasnt going to jump to a bigger turbo 1st. its probably what I would do closer to last.

OK, I have someone that can work on the IM ans EM for me.

What should I do with my headwork? I have 1mm oversized valves on ex and int. I had any castings/rough spots smoothed out.

Where should I go from here to help with the head? Any shops in Socal you recommend that KNOW the Miata head??

Thanks everyone.

I will stat making progress on this soon.
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:45 PM   #28
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As far as IM design, make sure your guy knows the calculations to properly design it if your not doing something like tossing a honda im to a 1.8 head flange, that way you can maximize gains in areas where you want them.

Cams and cam gears would be what i anticipate you being able to tune the system. Some guys in the DSM world run larger duration cams on the hot side... look into that.

Pioneer it!
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