We have built two, I still don't want to trade my turbo for one.

 

This is the best way to get a shitton of power. It just has a large up front cost.

For naturally aspirated power the biggest bang for the buck is buying a megasquirt and getting rid of the MAF. You will probably spend as much as all those other things and net more with the MS. I have seen NA cars pick up 10hp with just the MS and no maf.

 

Not to mention probably increase your gas mileage.

 

The most powerful N/A I know of is the FujiRacing ITB Miata:
That sounds expensive.

BTW, my personal "dream miata" would be a black NB with an aluminum LS swapped in, I'd want power in the low 300's, a high redline and light weight.

 

I have a pretty stout N/A car. It is an experience that few here understand. It is not cheap, but can be very rewarding.

I have no plans on changing my setup despite all of the flack I get.

 

Do you have a build thread? N/A had always had an appeal to me despite the expense.

 

I too agree with this, and I always watched those videos of that Fuji racing car. This one may be my fav:

It does take a lot of work though, and as far as this forum will tell you; it's most cost effective to just bolt on a turbo.
I make about 200whp now with a small turbo, and I get about 28mpg's driving in all throttle conditions. I doubt I'd see that kind of mpg's with an N/A setup.

 

Also, I don't think Fuji Racing is around any more, a google search didn't yield results.

 

Fuji Racing hasn't been around for a year.

 

Just to clarify, you're free to post here about NA mods, just know this thread is typical for the type of response you'll get. Those mods you mentioned get you 10hp or so, for Just a little less than a turbo setup that'll give you 60hp.

For example, most 1.6s will dyno at 90 HP.

$1000-1500 in NA mods will net you 100-105hp.

A $3000 FM setup will give you 150, and a $10 manual boost controller can give you 5-30 more, depending on the limits of the voodoo box, which I'm not sure of.

And FM's the expensive (high quality) option. Piece it together yourself and 3 grand will give you a stand alone ecu and 200hp.

 

If you want power from an intake i'd say join the CR forums.

If you really built motors i'm assuming you're after the real numbers, not the snake oil with the colorful ads...the advice here is real. Might not be the best choice of words but its the truth.

From memory didnt Hustler dynotune some ones N/A that pushed around 140whp? The person was running standalone but dont know what other mods. Still an expensive price tag for 10-15 hp gain.

 

"FujiRacing ITB Miata 210 HP/184 WHP. Redline 9000 RPM's. Engine Builder Raul Rodriguez Puerto Rico. FujiRacing 45mm ITB's-FujiRacing 4-1 Header-FujiRacing Flywheel-FujiRacing Cams-FujiRacing Underdrive Pulley-Stock injectors & valves.1st turn is very tight accelerating in 2nd. Just had this car at Nashville hitting 140 MPH on the banks. Idles at 1000 RPM's all day long. Connect 2 tight turns together and you get the idea.. No lag and no other induction comes close when it come to Instant Throttle Response. 184WHP Dynoed at Titan Motorsports. 2008 Redline Time Attack VIR Overall Street Class Winner. 2009 Redline Time Attack Nashville Modified RWD Winner. Next we will bolt in our most agressive cams. 200WHP?This engine's pistons are 10:5.1 CR w/slightly shaved head. Can you imagine a 13:1 or 14:1 CR. We are using 93 oct. pump gas."

My hat off to that car and driver, my overspun M-45 could hit 116mph [per GPS] at the end of the front before the decent into turn one lefty and turn two right-hand 180*. And of course I am not in the same league with the skill of the pro driver. LOL

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/11s-motor-9s-nitrous-46638/

My car and the Fuji car have different set ups, but have very similar performance in the way of acceleration.

His car has less compression than mine, but he has more camshaft. We are both listed on Dragtimes.com. My car outruns his by a small margin in the quarter mile, but he has just a tad more MPH. I think he is at 100 or 101, and I am at 99 MPH.

I would guess that he is making at least 10 whp more than me. My car I believe, has undergone more rigorous weight reduction. The only reason I would outrun him in the quarter mile is because my car is lighter and I am on slicks. His run was on radials. He still put down a pretty good 60' time though.

 

http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/throttl...ody-kit-ckmz02
That kit looks like what I would buy if I ever went the N/A route. I think the NB setup uses an Emerald ecu. I'm not sure of the price, but I can say this: A small turbo with all the hardware on a stock miata engine and a megasquirt on stock injectors, is more cost effective in making power than headwork, high comp pistons, cams, lightening / balancing, ITB's, header, etc, etc.
I do like the idea of making a N/A 4 cylinder as fast as a small turbo application. I mean, who wouldn't? It's been said before and I'll say it again. The Miata 4 cylinder wasn't designed to be an inexpensive means to N/A power. If you want N/A power, get a honda engine. Ever notice how much space is on the exhaust side of a miata? In my eyes, it was a design that was meant to be turbo'd.

 

Might as well. We have a couple of those here. Mine's only a 5.0 but there are some LS1's. Or maybe you didn't know that it was a common swap?

When I say common, we suspect 400-500 Miatas are now V8 cars, best guess.

 

Man up

 

Turbo car was easier to modulate and far more peaky feeling. Some days I wish I'd done a built 4 cylinder and an MSM gearbox.

 

LSx swap guys to consider: http://www.v8roadsters.com/

 

Fixed. You're welcome.

 

Why does everyone forget what Emilio is doing with his NA VVT motors? 170whp with bolt on sounds fun to me.