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Old 08-21-2012, 04:24 PM   #41
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Just ordered one. Still have to add the timing wheel at a later date.

By the time it comes available I'll have probably some more items I'll need, and or change the shipping to Canada

Thank you for offering a needed product at a decent price. Im sure my old 265,000km OEM one was spent this and this gives my partially assembled built engine some more assurance of a long and steady life.
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:50 AM   #42
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That is a nice piece of work.
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:49 AM   #43
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Crap. I actually need those four little bolt holes for my SC pulley.
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Old 08-22-2012, 03:25 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
Crap. I actually need those four little bolt holes for my SC pulley.
Sorry. We would have had to make too many concessions on the design and raised the price significantly to accommodate supercharger pulleys.

As mentioned before, if you want us to do an S/C specific design, send us an email. If we get enough deposits, we could do one with a larger diameter 6 rib outer. It would be an entirely new design and probably lower volume so the cost would be higher than our current one.
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Old 08-23-2012, 02:03 AM   #45
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Quote:
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Crap. I actually need those four little bolt holes for my SC pulley.
Fortunately, it will fit mine just fine
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:32 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
vs $107 for a 4T/12T wheel or on top of the $107?
Also how do you torque down the crank bolt without using a crank tool, like this one -
Does no one use the "rope trick" anymore?
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:35 PM   #47
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The dampers will have provisions for removal and installation integrated into the design.
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:51 PM   #48
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Default 2nd damper production run

More dampers available!

We sold out the first batch much sooner than anticipated. Orders placed before today (October 5) should ship towards the end of next week.

New orders placed after today will ship around the first of November.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:42 PM   #49
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Emilio, you know I'm in on this, but could you expound on the process for removal on this thing? You told Hustler:
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Reverse of install procedure.
And linked a bunch of pictures of random pullers. The above statement is VERY british. I have a Bently manual for my Triumph and its littered with references like that. The problem is that we don't know what that install process is, only that it requires the "special tool" or "washers, bolts and axle grease." You also stated in the OP that:
Quote:
Originally Posted by emilio700
The picture above shows a balancer for another car but this gives you and idea of what the Miata damper will look like.
so I can't tell if I need an inside or an outside "claw" puller or if the face of the thing has tapped holes to accommodate a "duck foot" puller, or if the magical tool will also work for removal. Your google image link primarily shows duck foot style pullers, but there are claws pictured as well... Remember, us peasants haven't seen final production pics on this thing yet A picture can be worth 1,000 words (and thus a 5 minute install/removal video is worth 9,600 words!)

Sorry if I'm being overly retarded, I'm just trying to understand, old bean.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:00 PM   #50
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The removal tool is proprietary. The damper has threaded bosses in its face. The installer is a cylindrical block with port for a breaker bar. The installer will be available to buy or rent from our site and possible TSE as well.

To install, thread small bolts through the installer into damper. Insert breaker bar through port to keep damper from rotating. Torque main bolt.

To remove use claw type puller.
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:10 PM   #51
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Now the vvt engine just needs a harmonic balancer built into the intake cam gear. Would be awesome to be able to rev a vvt head higher than 7,500.

Wonder if it would solve the harmonics issues?

This pulley is going on my shopping list for when I attempt to build a new bottom end for sure. Thanks for bringing another option to market. The price difference practically pays for OS valves.
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:19 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1vicissitude View Post
Now the vvt engine just needs a harmonic balancer built into the intake cam gear. Would be awesome to be able to rev a vvt head higher than 7,500.

Wonder if it would solve the harmonics issues?

This pulley is going on my shopping list for when I attempt to build a new bottom end for sure. Thanks for bringing another option to market. The price difference practically pays for OS valves.
Andrew at TSE assured me when he convinced me to go with a built VVT engine, rather than a 99, that the supertech valve springs fix the harmonic.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:06 PM   #53
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That is awesome to hear. Had no idea, Thanks for the input.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:57 PM   #54
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Almost there. The supplier doesn't usually coat the damper so the outer steel ring would eventually rust. We decided to delay the dampers a bit to have the outer rings clear anodized. The anodizing raised our cost but I kept the retail price the same.

I added the ano because I know most of these will actually end up on street cars, daily drivers in some cases.

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New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata-supermiatalogo_engrave.jpg  
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:24 PM   #55
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Clear? Come on. Everything coming out of your shop needs to be orange.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:30 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Clear? Come on. Everything coming out of your shop needs to be orange.
Hey now, I want to see these released by the end of the year.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:36 PM   #57
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I thought about that but decided to keep things simple and clean. We'll be offering BE's complete oil pump assemblies soon and again, I had to resist asking for them orange anodized.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:47 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
We'll be offering BE's complete oil pump assemblies soon and again.
Son of bitch, ****. Is this like a game for you?

Marginally pertinent question:
Does this damper make the engine feel like its NOT beating itself to death over 6000rpm? Eventually I want to yang this engine out, do ARP mains, BE pump and gears, 949 CK pully and 4-tooth. I also understand those parts along are worth more than the engine, lol.

I look forward to the "track reliability pack" discount.
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:27 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Son of bitch, ****. Is this like a game for you?

Marginally pertinent question:
Does this damper make the engine feel like its NOT beating itself to death over 6000rpm? Eventually I want to yang this engine out, do ARP mains, BE pump and gears, 949 CK pully and 4-tooth. I also understand those parts along are worth more than the engine, lol.

I look forward to the "track reliability pack" discount.
I don't think the damper will make that much of a difference that you can notice it from the driver's seat. I have driven BP's with the ATI damper and not noticed anything. The BP's I have driven that were fully balanced however, felt far smoother than any other BP. The best were like a long rod ratio Honda inline 4 in smoothness.

The two things we seen broken the most from mechanical over revs are bent valves and dead main bearings. Mostly the valves. In one instance, a cracked main cap. ST single springs shimmed for another 10# or so of seat pressure good to high 8's. Above 8700-8900, you need the dual valve springs. You pay a price in seat wear, cam wear and heat with the monster valve springs though.

For mains, just run lots oil pressure, race oil with lotsa zinc and King or ACL race bearings. We try to configure things to keep oil temps below 240 and ideally in the 220~230 range. That takes a 10-15 row Setrab and -10 lines. If the oil system is dialed it should still be close to 30psi idling hot and 70+ on top.
Stocker without a cooler will see 10-15psi at idle and barely 55psi on top when the oil is cooking at 280. That kills mains.

I need to get off my butt and put together an oil cooler kit for the site.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:27 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emilio700 View Post
For mains, just run lots oil pressure, race oil with lotsa zinc and King or ACL race bearings. We try to configure things to keep oil temps below 240 and ideally in the 220~230 range. That takes a 10-15 row Setrab and -10 lines. If the oil system is dialed it should still be close to 30psi idling hot and 70+ on top.
Stocker without a cooler will see 10-15psi at idle and barely 55psi on top when the oil is cooking at 280. That kills mains.
Race oil?
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