"We" do nothing special. Coolers have been run with the fittings on top and/or the fittings on bottom. It's not black magic. Air gets vented through the valve cover, either my VTA port or the PCV. It's pumping through at a supposed 30-90psi, I doubt much air is sticking around up top. Even if it is, my oil temps are cooler now than without it, so it's working.

 

this is only the 4th day with it being VTA, I did notice a little gas running down the frame rail but it wasnt much. I am curious as to what the inside of the K-frame looks like where it is normally vented...

 

Also, more pictures:


Just getting everything buttoned up. Pretty clean eh? This is the result of my "mild" wire tuck. The wiring and plumbing along the firewall will be cleaned up a bit before I'm done. I really really really wanna weld/bolt some clamps to the intake manifold for the coolant reroute pipe. I really hate how it sits crocked. I also wish I had yanked out the water port in the front and drilled and tapped it for NPT, as I was taking these pictures I realized the plug I put on there only a few months ago is already cracking.

Right now it would crank without starting and puke oil out the lines. A while ago I was having MS issues and Wayne_Curr graciously switched with me so he could fix it. He's been running flawlessly for months now, so it's time to get mine back. Along with a RFLBOV
Hopefully Summit's return system works well and my chicken scratch hand writing is legible to the poor soul who tries to read it, and I get the right parts back.

 

lookin good, looks like you dont have the brace under the intake down to the block either, ever had any problems without it being there?

 

Nope, I'm not that bad ***. From what I've heard it's the steel brace going from the intake manifold to the throttle body that is important, or else you snap throttle plate rods. I use that hole from the IM brace to bolt a rubber coated metal hanger for the coolant reroute pipe, which you can barely see (it's not bolted up yet).

 

That cast piece has been out of my car for years, my fingers are crossed for the throttle shaft though..

 

well shiit, I hope mine will hold up as well...

 

Finally finished, just have to finish buttoning up the bumper and bleed my clutch after installing the TSE clutch line.




Just a note for future summitracing.com orders: If you have to return/exchange an item, and you have enough spare money, and you need the part asap, return the part and buy the correct one online. I could've saved 2-3 days if I had done that instead of exchange, but my MS and new BOV came the exact same time, so I couldn't of started it anyways.

Got this from Wayne_Curr for the awesome price of fab'ing some brackets. Hope it's as loud as he says it is, and as a side benifit I hope it doesn't leak at the 10+psi I'm running.

 

I recommend you duct that oil cooler. I had the same one and even with direct air it was horribly inefficient.

 

looks good curly, do you by any chance run an oil temp gauge?

 

I'll work on it. I know it's not very efficient right now, there's only an inch between the back and the bumper support. There's some slack built into the lines so in the future I can push it out, up or down. It's running leak free right now, that was priority one.

 

I do run a oil temperature gauge. It's in the sandwich plate. Unfortunetly I don't have good data for "before". I haven't even used the MS on track, and before that was with the crappy oil cooler. I believe I was running 170ish on the street and 200+ on track.

 

I would like to get a gauge installed into my remote oil filter adapter, just to see what its running at with no oil cooler and then possibly install one to see how well it works. And possibly move it around and find the best spot/best ducting to it for maximum efficiency.

 

Unless your oil cooler was specifically designed to run with the fittings on the bottom:

In this scenario, the valve cover doesn't help with ****.



Or has someone found a way to make oil lighter than air?