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Old 03-31-2012, 12:12 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
Jim Stewart? It hopeless. Personal experience is that his business is complete ----. He learned some things about miata engine differences...and miata oil pumps...on my engine....at my expense...

Cookie-cutter spec engines: YMMV.
lol. i thought dude builds spec miatas...no?
i just googled his name and miata after speaking with planet miata

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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
To those that had problems with pump valves after a rebuild: did you change the oil after your first 20 or 30 miles?
no...same oil for the first 288 miles.

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I would assume more likely to be a failing bearing which caused tiny bits of metal to get crunched between your gears and stuck in your valve before those tiny bits of metal made it to your oil filter - when's the last time you cut open one of your used oil filters?
which came first?
the chicken or the egg?
i hope my nasty looking bearings are due to oil starvation and not something inherently wrong with the block. if there's something wrong with the rods, hopefully the scat rods i just purchased will solve any issues.

though srsly...i need a pump that doesn't fail. i don't want to rip is apart a third time. (disclaimer - won't be me ripping it apart, but the shop across the street from me.)
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:27 AM   #22
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lol. i thought dude builds spec miatas...no?
i just googled his name and miata after speaking with planet miata

His shop is basically an assembly line for SM engines. Ask him to build an engine differently, and holy ****, you might as well shoot yourself in the face. I'll give you just *one* tiny example of my experience - I took in my good '94 engine for a build, and I started to examine it when I went to pick it up. Upon inspection, holy ----, my turbo oil-feed port wasn't there.

DUDE USED SOMEONE ELSES FU(KING ENGINE BLOCK TO BUILD MY MOTOR.

And then I was basically stuck sourcing, paying for, and installing an oil pickup from the intake side of the block.



no...same oil for the first 288 miles.
I will cry a tear for you tonight


which came first?
the chicken or the egg?
i hope my nasty looking bearings are due to oil starvation and not something inherently wrong with the block. if there's something wrong with the rods, hopefully the scat rods i just purchased will solve any issues.

First? First there were tiny bits of metal in the sump, which were sucked through the gaping holes of the strainer and into the oil pump, once they were in the oil pump, they were sandwiched between the zero-clearance gears, thus tearing up the gear surfaces. at high RPMs or low temps half of those little bits would have been forced through the pressure relief valve, where the oil certainly made it through, but it seems a few hundred tiny bits of metal made it to the springs and made it to the near zero clearance surface between the plunger and its associated walls to a point where the pressure relief spring could no longer shove the plunger closed.

I can't tell you with any certainty why you had metal shavings in your oil pan, I can only guess that you had something go wrong during the install related to a failure - maybe an improperly clearanced bearing - maybe a plugged up oil galley. It might have been any of a million other things, but a failed bearing causing a failed oil pump is only my best guess. Good luck with the autopsy.


though srsly...i need a pump that doesn't fail. i don't want to rip is apart a third time. (disclaimer - won't be me ripping it apart, but the shop across the street from me.)
In for pics of mirror like finish on the oil filter media.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:44 AM   #23
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good info. thanks.
my oil def had a mirror sheen to it from the metal. but i don't think there were any chunks.
i wonder if the pump is rebuildable...
and umm...perhaps some better ------- oil will be necessary. lol
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:09 AM   #24
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Interesting read. seems the stuck relief valve is a side effect, rather than the cause?
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:21 PM   #25
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Ill have to pay attention of this thread since I am going to be building a 1.8 shortly.

Has this issue been found on street engines, or mainly on race engines?

Phillyb, 6 days and 288 miles, in that time how hard did you run the engine?

I wonder if the clearance between the plunger and the case is a tad tight, and when running hard, thermal expantion happens to one or the other and then sezies the plunger???
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:07 PM   #26
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5k rpms sometimes.
no wot.
naturally aspirated (slow) and trying to baby it.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:55 PM   #27
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Sub'd
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:30 PM   #28
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In terested sorry to hear about your pump too.
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Old 04-01-2012, 02:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2daj View Post
tempted to buy a BE race pump but spoke to keith at FM and he said he has not heard of a failure with an ati damper fitted and recommended the later vvt engine pump as it is higher capacity.... maybe i just need to buy a race pump and damper to be sure.
Yeah I'm running a VVT pump on my 1.6L so far with no isses (300whp). But who knows it could go any day. I'm picking up an ATI damper in the next month or so.
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:14 PM   #30
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ATI damper really does smooth out the car TREMENDOUSLY
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:21 PM   #31
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well... pulled the rest of the engine apart the other day to find damage to the main bearings and cam journals. there was also some quite large scores on the thrust sides of the bores. looks like its full rebuild time!!

been trying to get in touch with Keith at FM for the bits but he is away racing. time is getting a little tight with the first race of the season in 3 weeks!!

if i cant get the bits i think i will throw some h-beams in a standard endine and justt see how long it lasts. anyone tried that?
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:43 PM   #32
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yeah. i have the same ---- going on. already bought my rods and pistons.
my main bearings were ok...but my cam caps were kind of fucked too.
rod bearings were fucked also
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