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BE Oil Pump Worth It?

 
Old 06-12-2019, 02:35 AM
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Default BE Oil Pump Worth It?

So I have a turbo Miata that is primarily a street car that will see track days occasionally throughout the year. I have VVT, turbo, and plan on adding an oil cooler. Rev limit is 7200 RPM.

Probably going to throw some rods and pistons into the motor along with ARP hardware to ensure that the motor will last a good long time without popping. Is upgrading to the Boundary Engineering oil pump worth it? It's an additional $400 expense, and if it's not really going to give me any benefit I'd rather just leave it out. I had a Nissan KA24, fully built with turbo and oil cooler and the stock oil pump never gave me issues, so idk if the Miata oil pump is up to the task.

If I do need the oil pump, how many shims should I get it with?
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:26 AM
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Yes

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I feel i should elaborate on this. It is not 100% necessary, the oem one will pump oil and probably be just fine for a good while. But on the flip side if you throw rods and pistons in and hardware and bearings you're in fairly deep already wouldnt you prefer to protect that investment with an oil pump you know will be near failproof.

For reference my block with arp hardware, rods, pistons, bearings, and machining was just under 2500. I would prefer not to do that again so i got a BE pump and a good harmonic balancer.

Last edited by matrussell122; 06-12-2019 at 10:12 AM. Reason: Elaboration
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:51 AM
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:27 PM
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OP is the new ridetheclit.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:03 PM
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Do a site search with the term “carnage” and decide for yourself.
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Old 06-15-2019, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by matrussell122 View Post
Yes

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I feel i should elaborate on this. It is not 100% necessary, the oem one will pump oil and probably be just fine for a good while. But on the flip side if you throw rods and pistons in and hardware and bearings you're in fairly deep already wouldnt you prefer to protect that investment with an oil pump you know will be near failproof.

For reference my block with arp hardware, rods, pistons, bearings, and machining was just under 2500. I would prefer not to do that again so i got a BE pump and a good harmonic balancer.
Thank you, very informative response.

Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
OP is the new ridetheclit.
Unnecessary.
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Old 06-15-2019, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post

OP is the new ridetheclit.
Originally Posted by dsamani View Post

Unnecessary.
Perhaps, but perceptive and seems accurate. All in good fun.

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Old 06-15-2019, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
Perhaps, but perceptive and seems accurate. All in good fun.

DNM
Eh, I'm figuring out the Miata platform and finding out where I need to spend money and where I don't. Trying to avoid the very, VERY expensive build I did on my 240SX. I bought all the best parts and the damn thing still broke.

Just wanna spend my money right and limit expenses.
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:11 PM
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If you have more than oem parts in the engine and are making any amount of power then yes you want that pump.
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:59 PM
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Billet pumps were developed out of necessity in the BP engine platform, not for style points. Our very agrarian engines are not smooth like a Honda or Nissan. The engines were designed on a tight budget using many off the shelf parts that originated in the early 80s on a 1.1 liter platform making 50hp.

The pump is necessary for boosted track applications, imo. I've seen the pictures of the carnage.
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Billet pumps were developed out of necessity in the BP engine platform, not for style points. Our very agrarian engines are not smooth like a Honda or Nissan. The engines were designed on a tight budget using many off the shelf parts that originated in the early 80s on a 1.1 liter platform making 50hp.

The pump is necessary for boosted track applications, imo. I've seen the pictures of the carnage.
Understood, and considering that pretty much anytime the car is turned on, it's gonna be driven hard (except highway cruise, of course) so this will definitely be a worthwhile purchase.

Only reason I ask is that despite people claiming the KA24 has an inadequate oil pump, I never experienced problems on track or on street, despite having oil cooler, turbo, the works.

Now I just need to figure out number of shims necessary, I'm sure BE can provide me with that information unless you guys have a recommendation.
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:15 AM
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dc2696 View Post
No pls, do not want, prefer fast car not ded car
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:29 AM
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Shid while I'm spending money should I also do an ATI Superdamper?

Edit: seems to not be necessary unless over 280 HP or revving very high

Last edited by dsamani; 06-17-2019 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:05 AM
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You need a damper anyway and that is a good one.
Fluidampr is another.

Are you safer with 1 safety extra or two?
So given what you are spending you are saving yourself quite a lot of heartbreak by adding more safety measures.
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Old 06-17-2019, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by rrjwilson View Post
You need a damper anyway and that is a good one.
Fluidampr is another.

Are you safer with 1 safety extra or two?
So given what you are spending you are saving yourself quite a lot of heartbreak by adding more safety measures.
This is true, but it's another $500 on top lol

What is nice is that the damper isn't an internal component, so at the very least I can get everything running, tuned, and safe and add it later on. Only takes like an hour to remove the damper.
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:07 PM
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Buy BP oil pump. When money allows get the fuild damper
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:11 PM
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Or buy BE oil pump, use stock damper, save money and still enjoy boost.

I would also never want to attempt to install a damper with the motor in the car. Lack of room will come to make you hate life.
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:00 PM
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Oh hey now...

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Old 06-17-2019, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Or buy BE oil pump, use stock damper, save money and still enjoy boost.

I would also never want to attempt to install a damper with the motor in the car. Lack of room will come to make you hate life.
I installed the Fluidampr with everything in the car from underneath, having previously built the motor with the BE pump and enjoyed boost with the stock damper.

Other than having to avoid the ARB with the wrench it wasn't too bad. That said, it's not stupidly tight on the nose like the ATI one is supposed to be.
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