our first ported oem intake manifold
 

Well here is a 94-97 intake manifold that was donated by one of the members on here Thanks!

first cut open. The EGR really destroys the inside huh!?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604

removed the EGR tunnel. It consumed a large amount of volume, removig this helped increase the internal volume size.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604

This is it before it gets welded. This was without the thermal ceramic coating option.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320287604

Overall as you can see the last cylinder on the right is the largest hurdle in this intake manifold design. We plan on giving this to a member who whats to try it out and tell us how much better the car feels and responds. We do tons of port work daily and this one was alot of fun, we know we definitively made improvements to the manifold. with as many different manifolds that we have done we know what works and does not.

I will try it out

How about a 99-00 intake.

I have a 01-05 I can donate to let you try working on.

Wow didnt know mazda made such a horrible design on the 4th piston.

Yea that wasn't the best solution on Mazda's part there or more efficient ways to mount the EGR devices.

For the few different styles of OEM manifolds we are willing to port them out. PM us and we will discuss what were looking for. We really only need one of each.

PM's sent

Doppelgänger! Your not excepting PM's so feel free to contact us. We can get everything sorted out.

Thanks.

I've got a 99 intake to donate if needed.

Edit: also have a 94-97 as well. Both ready to ship.

I'd like to see what you can do with a '99 intake, lots of unnecessary material in there.

I would love to try that out.

that's not a 1.6L IM :) that's a 94-97.

Does the 90-93 have egr

No.

I've got the 99 and an 01 Euro manifold ready to go.

didn't think so, i didn't remember seeing any of the normal stuff when i had mine off. but i also have the memory of a goldfish

If you DO do a 99-00 intake manifold, I'm curious to see how you deal with the VICS resonance chamber. completely removing it might be a mistake depending on the end goals of the car.

I don't want the VICS chamber removed or butterflies disabled on my 99 manifold. However if someone has another manifold to donate to the cause, and if Brandon wants to port it, I can back to back test various configurations.

I do want the VTCS system removed on the 01 manifold. EGR too, especially if it looks silly like the pictured NA8 manifold.

here's some good reference info:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...9&postcount=17

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320336754

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320336754

in for 99 results. may go this route, would be more simple than honda intake mani

Simple and OEM! Cant go wrong there!

PM sent :)

YAY! you the man!
your a man right. lol

I wonder what you can do with a 90-93, seein as how it doesn't have egr.

I am almost certain that is my old 94 IM that I just sent them. I can not wait to see what type of numbers it makes.

That it is! Very excited how it turned out personally!

-Sam

Depends on the day...

LOL. ooooh Fridays!

Y8s FYI I have a 99-00 intake that is completely gutted.

BTW Renown, please measure volume before and after port/gut.

I gained about .7 or something liters after gut

Yeah I'm still unconvinced that it's a worthwhile mod but then I haven't seen apples-apples dyno plots comparing a stock 99, 01, gutted 99, and Keith's dual runner style 99, and an 01 with the VTCS removed.

But I'd like to.

Oh Reeeeeknownnnnnn?

Hey now, two dyno days ago, I demonstrated a lovely flat HP line holding to redline. Proof of gut airflow joy. And that was with a big ass boost sag too.

what? if anything that proved your setup sucked big time.

Sigh... maybe you're right. But I will dyno again next week and report here. Boost is holding steady to redline now so results should be useful.

cuase if anything, the better flowing IM will keep the TQ flatter longer, thus the HP peaking later.

that's fine
now put a stock manifold on yoru car with exactly the same setup and do it again.

Yea the Extra volume will be measured we just wanted to get this first one opened up to show you guys what whats up. LOL

I am working with Ben at DIY Autotune about testing the different Manifolds for us. We hope to have dyno results soon. Its nice to keep things unbiased.

One thing we would like to make clear is that we are trying out a few different porting Theory's on the manifold, one may work better then the other. However we have an awesome Porting team that have mad porting skills yo! LOL. In all honesty though our team has years of experiences and will be applying what they know and and have seen work in past projects.

I did this exact porting on my manifold, used in conjunction with a PD supercharger running at ~20psi. Opening the manifold valve, results in a boost drop of 2psi @ 7100rpm, indicating this mod improves flow. (it also increases boost at 2500rpm, so I am controlling the valve with a MS)

In turbo applications, I understand you are also looking for additional volume, so you probably want to remove as much material as possible.

Before:
Attachment 186581
After:
Attachment 186582

Any noticeable difference in power?

More flow = more air which + fuel = more power

Same setup and less boost at the plenum= more flow, more flow = more power.

What do you know, someone agrees with Fae. Just kidding mate.

Dann

Yes, with a turbo, you should have constant boost, so the engine will be flowing more air, which means more power.

With a positive displacement supercharger, it's a little different. The supercharger will pump almost the same amount of air with 2 psi reduction in backpressure (boost). Lowering the boost, by reducing the engine restriction, will reduce the HP required to turn the supercharger, and allow the supercharger to pump a tiny bit more air.

I'm going to the dyno later this week, and intend on doing a run, with the butterflies in reversed position (open at low rpm, and closed at high rpm), to see what the HP difference is. I would expect there to be a larger difference with a turbo.

Wrong test. Do a pull open. Then do a pull closed. Lay the plots on top of each other. Your switch point is where the lines cross.

And... would the supercharger would generate less heat for the same amount of air?

hmm this is interesting, can't wait to see results

Will this testing include an unmolested JDM/sqare top manifold ?

Any interest in tackling a Honda/Mazda hybrid manifold?

Puke

details please:

how are you controlling the valve? [by either opening or shutting the vacuum to the actuator or by switching a solenoid that controls the vacuum]

what is the switch over point? [rpm, vacuum, or both]

TIA

This is a good test, but I know what rpm to transition the manifold at. I just want to know what the power difference would be.

Valve control:
I have a vac line, passing thru a 1 way valve, to an accumilator(I am using a small fuel filter). This gives me a steady vac source. This goes to a 3 way valve, which came off a stock Miata. The common port of the valve goes to the vac actuator on the manifold. The other port on the valve is vented to atmosphere. (I'll post a pic, but have to head out of the house now..)

My test shows you precisely what the power difference is when you compare the 2 plots. Showing the ideal switchpoint can be considered a side bonus.

Just wondering if 01 Euro means square top. They are so hyped now that it's about time someone did a proper dyno comparison.

Here is the valve and associated components to control the IM actuator. The IM actuator, needs to have vacuum to close the IM plates, and no vacuum to open them. The clear hose goes to the air filter. When the valve is unpowered, this port is connected to the IM actuator. The one way valve (green/white) is connected to a vac source, and then an small fuel filter, which stores vacuum. The vacuum storage may not be necessary, however I added it, to ensure that there was always plenty of vacuum available...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320924352


Both methods do precisely that. Here is what you would see using each method.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320924352

To reverse the action of the valve, I just need to tick a box in the MS software, to reverse the polarity of the valve control signal. I also need to have a different VE table for the different settings of the IM actuator, otherwise the car will run rich which will make the test results not comparable.

If I had one of these, I would first put it on the car, and determine if it was flowing better. With an aftermarket computer, you can see how much extra fuel (VE) you need to add, to maintain the same AFR. By looking at amount of additional fuel you need to add, you can determine if you should be seeing a power gain worthy of taking it to the dyno.... Othewise, you could be spending $$, used better elsewhere.

very helpful info - thank you - from your posts I gather that you are switching [closing?] the butterfly valves at about 2500 rpm; was that just an arbitrary selection or based on some fact-base info - looks like the VE adjustment method could also be a way to determine the switch point

We have been doing some reading up on it and playing with some we have in stock here...do you just need one ported or looking at making the hybrid?

-Sam

Here ya go bitzchezzz

http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/dyno_runs/99_050400.pdf

Green would be closed, blue would be open, and red would be the combo.

so

< 3500 rpm = green, closed
3500 - 5500 = blue, open
5500 < = green, closed

wonder if adding the 3-dimension [vacuum] has any impact?

I'm assuming the difference on a turbo motor would be much bigger. This is the stock vics manifold btw, not gutted.

Just ported, the halves are already joined. Porting would be an especially good idea in this case since there is a definite obstruction at the splice.

Awesome work, can't wait to see the results. What kind of cost and turn around would it take to get a manifold ported like that?

There is a place that does something like this, the force mud thru the intake mani under 7-3000psi to debur anything including intakes and heads
http://www.extrudehone.com/

We can definitely port out that Hybrid manifold!

Turnaround time is about a week and a half, and cost is $400 for a fully ported manifold like these.

-Sam