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Old 08-13-2013, 11:19 AM   #41
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I think he wrote that wrong. Because later he asked if it was okay to run less than 10% antifreeze.
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:06 PM   #42
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I don't run any antifreeze. Bottle of water wetter, the rest is well... water.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:03 PM   #43
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Is that the correct order?
nope fixed it my bad I am running 90% water 10% antifreeze.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:22 PM   #44
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I do find it funny that my 93' at 10psi in 118 degree weather with no undertray, 1 fan, koyo radiator doesn't go above 180 on the highway or in stop and go traffic even when pushing it hard.
Do you have an A/C condensor infront of your radiator, and if so do you have your A/C turned on?
Mine stays in the ~200 range (I think the coolant re-route I bought has a 190 t-stat) as long as I have the A/C turned off. Once it's turned on, on the highway I see temps in the 225-228 range at speed.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:58 PM   #45
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No A/C at all. That does help quite a bit I'm sure. No reroute yet though. Although with better coolant routing, extracting more heat from the engine, wouldn't the coolant temps increase a smidgen? (spoiler alert: I know nothing of thermodynamics or whatever voodoo is involved in figuring that out).
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:08 PM   #46
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At cruise, what is the "dangerous heat" level for you all? Obviously we would like our temps to be about 185 degrees once all the proper ducting, undertrays etc are in place, but what would cause you to either shut the car down, turn the heat on, or pull over?

If I stay at 212 or above for any period of time I get uncomfortable.
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:13 PM   #47
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225F for the MSM.


Depends on the car though.


My MX6 has had chronic cooling issues over the years and i've seen as high as 270F sitting in traffic. O-ringed block, copper gasket, and ARP studs torqued to Jesus and back, no ***** given. Still nails a compression test, so.... meh.
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:28 PM   #48
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With a 14psi radiator cap, the boiling point of water is a touch north of 245*F. At 235*F, I turn my A/C off - but I would have to be parked and idling in 100* heat with the A/C on full blast for 15 minutes to break 230*F. Once the A/C is off, temps while idling drop down to about 215 in about 120 seconds, then I get another 15 minutes of A/C. My dash gauge starts flashing me at about 227* I think.

While making any speed whatsoever with the car (25+ mph) I'll never see a problem.

It doesn't matter how hot your coolant is, your engine will be fine as long as there is coolant there and circulating. It's the lack of coolant that kills engines, usually from boiling.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:01 PM   #49
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I did this to a car that was having the same overheating problem that you are having, in his case the coolant RR (i assume that you have one) was not burping air from the highest point on the engine to the radiator where it could be vented to the catch can in the heat-cool sicle. i used a clear hose initially and could see a lot of air coming throu it for the first few minutes after start up.
The car whent from consistantly overheating to a painted temp needle.
Hope that this helps
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:02 PM   #50
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Every post that doesn't include the words "put your undertray on" in this thread makes me cry at night.
I ignored everyone's advise to "put your undertray on" when I built my turbo '92, and had no cooling problems with it until I moved to FL, which a rear-thermostat reroute cured.

Based on that experience, I have not purchased a replacement undertray for my bone-stock 90, which continues not to overheat.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:37 AM   #51
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I really don't want to do a coolant reroute. I have my reasons. I am hoping this weekend when I put the new temp sensor that will fix it and if not I hope the shroud does. I just need to baby the car from Tyler tx to san Marcos tx(3.5 hr drive) until I get higher flowing fans in. Fm spal setups on backorder :(
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:40 AM   #52
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How do you expect a temp sensor to fix your overheating issues? Temp sensors read a temperature that already exists.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:37 AM   #53
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If the old temp sensor is reading incorrect, and showing the temp well higher than it should be. Then a new temp sensor will fix the overheating problem!!! :LOL:
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:39 AM   #54
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Are you getting bubbling from the coolant overflow bottle? If yes and the fans are running a new thermostat wont fix it.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:12 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
If the old temp sensor is reading incorrect, and showing the temp well higher than it should be. Then a new temp sensor will fix the overheating problem!!! :LOL:
Oy.




Is this where we ask the question of "How do you know it's overheating?"
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:25 AM   #56
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You know what your problem is? You need the hyper reroute.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:35 PM   #57
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The coolant is not bubbling out so.....


The reason I say the temp sensor is because it may be bad. For all I know my temp is fine and the gauge is broken.

Anyway before I go blow 250 or so on a reroute(unless anyone knows of a cheaper place other then begi) I plan on ducting and higher capacity fans. I feel it will be a better next move.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:37 PM   #58
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How about an undertray? Have you considered running one?
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:43 PM   #59
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Thats not a bad idea, it would have been much better if someone suggested it immediately in the first reply though.

Dann
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:43 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 View Post
The coolant is not bubbling out so.....


The reason I say the temp sensor is because it may be bad. For all I know my temp is fine and the gauge is broken.

Anyway before I go blow 250 or so on a reroute(unless anyone knows of a cheaper place other then begi) I plan on ducting and higher capacity fans. I feel it will be a better next move.
Read the diy reroute. Search n00b!
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