Overheating what havent I changed?
08-13-2013, 02:22 PM
#44
Mine stays in the ~200 range (I think the coolant re-route I bought has a 190 t-stat) as long as I have the A/C turned off. Once it's turned on, on the highway I see temps in the 225-228 range at speed.
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08-13-2013, 03:58 PM
#45
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No A/C at all. That does help quite a bit I'm sure. No reroute yet though. Although with better coolant routing, extracting more heat from the engine, wouldn't the coolant temps increase a smidgen? (spoiler alert: I know nothing of thermodynamics or whatever voodoo is involved in figuring that out).
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08-13-2013, 04:08 PM
#46
At cruise, what is the "dangerous heat" level for you all? Obviously we would like our temps to be about 185 degrees once all the proper ducting, undertrays etc are in place, but what would cause you to either shut the car down, turn the heat on, or pull over?
If I stay at 212 or above for any period of time I get uncomfortable.
If I stay at 212 or above for any period of time I get uncomfortable.
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08-13-2013, 04:13 PM
#47
225F for the MSM.
Depends on the car though.
My MX6 has had chronic cooling issues over the years and i've seen as high as 270F sitting in traffic. O-ringed block, copper gasket, and ARP studs torqued to Jesus and back, no ***** given. Still nails a compression test, so.... meh.
Depends on the car though.
My MX6 has had chronic cooling issues over the years and i've seen as high as 270F sitting in traffic. O-ringed block, copper gasket, and ARP studs torqued to Jesus and back, no ***** given. Still nails a compression test, so.... meh.
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08-13-2013, 07:28 PM
#48
With a 14psi radiator cap, the boiling point of water is a touch north of 245*F. At 235*F, I turn my A/C off - but I would have to be parked and idling in 100* heat with the A/C on full blast for 15 minutes to break 230*F. Once the A/C is off, temps while idling drop down to about 215 in about 120 seconds, then I get another 15 minutes of A/C. My dash gauge starts flashing me at about 227* I think.
While making any speed whatsoever with the car (25+ mph) I'll never see a problem.
It doesn't matter how hot your coolant is, your engine will be fine as long as there is coolant there and circulating. It's the lack of coolant that kills engines, usually from boiling.
While making any speed whatsoever with the car (25+ mph) I'll never see a problem.
It doesn't matter how hot your coolant is, your engine will be fine as long as there is coolant there and circulating. It's the lack of coolant that kills engines, usually from boiling.
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08-13-2013, 08:01 PM
#49
I did this to a car that was having the same overheating problem that you are having, in his case the coolant RR (i assume that you have one) was not burping air from the highest point on the engine to the radiator where it could be vented to the catch can in the heat-cool sicle. i used a clear hose initially and could see a lot of air coming throu it for the first few minutes after start up.
The car whent from consistantly overheating to a painted temp needle.
Hope that this helps
The car whent from consistantly overheating to a painted temp needle.
Hope that this helps
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08-13-2013, 08:02 PM
#50
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Based on that experience, I have not purchased a replacement undertray for my bone-stock 90, which continues not to overheat.
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08-13-2013, 11:37 PM
#51
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I really don't want to do a coolant reroute. I have my reasons. I am hoping this weekend when I put the new temp sensor that will fix it and if not I hope the shroud does. I just need to baby the car from Tyler tx to san Marcos tx(3.5 hr drive) until I get higher flowing fans in. Fm spal setups on backorder :(
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08-14-2013, 11:35 AM
#57
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The coolant is not bubbling out so.....
The reason I say the temp sensor is because it may be bad. For all I know my temp is fine and the gauge is broken.
Anyway before I go blow 250 or so on a reroute(unless anyone knows of a cheaper place other then begi) I plan on ducting and higher capacity fans. I feel it will be a better next move.
The reason I say the temp sensor is because it may be bad. For all I know my temp is fine and the gauge is broken.
Anyway before I go blow 250 or so on a reroute(unless anyone knows of a cheaper place other then begi) I plan on ducting and higher capacity fans. I feel it will be a better next move.
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08-14-2013, 11:43 AM
#60
The coolant is not bubbling out so.....
The reason I say the temp sensor is because it may be bad. For all I know my temp is fine and the gauge is broken.
Anyway before I go blow 250 or so on a reroute(unless anyone knows of a cheaper place other then begi) I plan on ducting and higher capacity fans. I feel it will be a better next move.
The reason I say the temp sensor is because it may be bad. For all I know my temp is fine and the gauge is broken.
Anyway before I go blow 250 or so on a reroute(unless anyone knows of a cheaper place other then begi) I plan on ducting and higher capacity fans. I feel it will be a better next move.
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