Notices
Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: KPower

Overheating what havent I changed?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 31, 2013 | 08:21 PM
  #101  
BTMiata's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,512
Total Cats: 30
From: South Jersey
Default

Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
Wouldnt I be losing coolant if I had a headgasket issue?
Not necessarily...

Also, have you owned the car since new? If not... Maybe a previous owner used some type of stop leak, and it might have gummed up water passages... Just a thought
Old Aug 31, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #102  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

Originally Posted by BTMiata
Not necessarily...

Also, have you owned the car since new? If not... Maybe a previous owner used some type of stop leak, and it might have gummed up water passages... Just a thought
Im not sure. When I bought the car the original radiator is good and so was the water pump when I changed it. I think I am just going to head up to home depot to get more materials in attempt to make better ducting.
Old Aug 31, 2013 | 08:50 PM
  #103  
chriscar's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,709
Total Cats: 16
From: Carrollton TX
Default

Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
Wouldnt I be losing coolant if I had a headgasket issue?
Not necessarily - it could be small enough to leak combustion chamber (HOT) gas into a coolant passage under load.

C
Old Aug 31, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #104  
fooger03's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,149
Total Cats: 230
From: Columbus, OH
Default

Originally Posted by fooger03
The reason that we tell people that they must do proper ducting is because it is the one single proven method that works to eliminate freeway heat creep EVERY TIME. Nothing else will solve this problem. If you ducted your radiator and you're still experiencing freeway heat creep, then you didn't duct well enough. You can do a shitty job and it wont fix your problem, you can do a decent job and you probably wont see a difference, you can do a good job and you might blow me off when you still see creep, but only slightly slower, but to see the results you are looking for, you MUST do a "great" job ducting. It doesn't have to be "impeccable", and it doesn't have to be "perfect", but if you, for a split second, decide that you've done a "good enough" job, I'm going to tell you: "It ain't good enough".
Quoted For Truth

Bolded for emphasis


I have no love for el magico funnel.

I have a weep bolt at the front of the front water neck, a high point in the cooling system. To me, a "magic funnel" is a crutch.
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #105  
Onyxyth's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 735
Total Cats: 62
From: Boyertown, PA
Default

Where can I find information on this proper ducting technique?
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:21 PM
  #106  
fooger03's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,149
Total Cats: 230
From: Columbus, OH
Default

miataturbo.net
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:31 PM
  #107  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

Originally Posted by Onyxyth
Where can I find information on this proper ducting technique?
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...splicer-43650/

Post 25 and read on. I am trying to build something similar today and tomorow. Its so damn hot here I am going to go and go to walmart and get an ac unit for my garage.
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:46 PM
  #108  
Onyxyth's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 735
Total Cats: 62
From: Boyertown, PA
Default

Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...splicer-43650/

Post 25 and read on. I am trying to build something similar today and tomorow. Its so damn hot here I am going to go and go to walmart and get an ac unit for my garage.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by fooger03
miataturbo.net
Yeah yeah. The problem with the search is the information isn't indexed in a very search friendly manner. You could spend hours reading posts that contain the words radiator + ducting and never find what you're actually looking for. Oh well.
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #109  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

I found the best way to search is through google. Theres a feature that lets us search within miataturbo.net and is so much better than the shitty forum search engine. Most forums I have noticed have aweful search engines so I just use google.

Like this

https://www.google.com/search?q=miat...miataturbo.net
Old Sep 1, 2013 | 08:42 PM
  #110  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

Well i got my template almost done should have pics up tomorrow for you guys to complain and tell me how i did it wrong.

EDIT Also forgot to mention spill free funnel is on its way

Last edited by ScottyP3821; Sep 1, 2013 at 09:00 PM.
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 07:30 PM
  #111  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

Well ducting has got me down to around 220 without ac in 100 degree weather in and out of boost. I really believe that I have air trapped in the system somewhere. Going to wait for funnel to come in and hope it fixes it. I opened the cap when it was hot with a towel and after it depressurized a big *** bubble came out so yeah there is air in there and obviously I suck at burping the system.
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #112  
BTMiata's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,512
Total Cats: 30
From: South Jersey
Default

Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
Well ducting has got me down to around 220 without ac in 100 degree weather in and out of boost. I really believe that I have air trapped in the system somewhere. Going to wait for funnel to come in and hope it fixes it. I opened the cap when it was hot with a towel and after it depressurized a big *** bubble came out so yeah there is air in there and obviously I suck at burping the system.
I usually jack the front end up a bit... The object us to make the funnel the highest point in the system to force the air up
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #113  
olderguy's Avatar
AFM Crusader
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,716
Total Cats: 364
From: Wayne, NJ
Default

When burping with a reroute, the car/engine needs to be level. When burping with the standard setup raise the front of the car quite a bit.
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 07:44 PM
  #114  
chriscar's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,709
Total Cats: 16
From: Carrollton TX
Default

No need for a fancy funnel. Just get one that fits snugly enough in the radiator that it won't flop over. Fill the radiator, and a small bit of the funnel, (maybe an inch or two), and let the car idle. As it comes up to temp, air bubbles will escape into the funnel. Make sure you let the car get hot enough for the thermostat to open while you're doing this.

C
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 08:01 PM
  #115  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

Originally Posted by olderguy
When burping with a reroute, the car/engine needs to be level. When burping with the standard setup raise the front of the car quite a bit.
Aw **** lol. I been jacking up the car with a reroute.
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 10:12 PM
  #116  
fooger03's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,149
Total Cats: 230
From: Columbus, OH
Default

with a reroute, when you jack up the car, the front water neck becomes the second high point in the system - or the front of the block if you have no front water neck. Leave the car level, and if you have a way to vent the front water neck (as in the m-tuned reroute with two allen bolts) remove the higher bolt and fill until water comes out of the hole - then, with water coming out of the hole, plug the hole before finishing filling the system.

If you have the M-tuned reroute, you can indeed jack the front of the car up, but you absolutely must use the allen bolt vent method. If you have an alternative reroute, you'll need to figure out how to vent the front of the block if you jack up the front of the car.
Old Sep 2, 2013 | 11:00 PM
  #117  
HHammerly's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 838
Total Cats: 63
From: Brownsburg,IN
Default

Originally Posted by fooger03
Quoted For Truth

Bolded for emphasis


I have no love for el magico funnel.

I have a weep bolt at the front of the front water neck, a high point in the cooling system. To me, a "magic funnel" is a crutch.
I imagine that you are completely frustrated with this hole thing by now and still think that your problem is likely some trapped air in the head and don't think that the funnel will remove air trapped at the front of your head, the bleed plug is there for a good reason, in my opinion if you want to get the air out you have 3 options
1) jack the back of your car until the engine is higher on the back than the front and start it letting it warm up and rev it once it is hot and your thermostat is open.
2) put a bleed fitting on the thermostat housing cover and leave it open as you fill the cooling system until there is no air coming out of it.
3) put a bleed hose like i suggested early in this thread and forget about it
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 12:09 AM
  #118  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

I'm going to flush the system. I'm wondering at this point if there maybe a clog. I believe I have acomplised getting the air out of the system. I think my reroute hose was too high so I adjusted it so it sits lower. Then I burped with a funnel that lacked magic until no bubbles were found. Several cycles. Still got pretty hot at 215 without ac. I must have a clog.
Old Sep 3, 2013 | 11:08 PM
  #119  
ScottyP3821's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,153
Total Cats: 50
From: Texas
Default

So an update I am doing the 3 day system flush which requires you to drive the car around over the course of the 3 days for 3-6 hours.(Ill shoot for 3). The car was doing good and even under heavy driving stayed around 207 without ac. Then out of no where the car shot up to 220+ and stayed there no matter what type of driving. Anyone think it could be more air or possibly rust moving around in the system backing up. Could something be expanding when heated causing a the clog. The flush has only been in there for a few hours.
Old Sep 4, 2013 | 12:24 AM
  #120  
fooger03's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,149
Total Cats: 230
From: Columbus, OH
Default

Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
So an update I am doing the 3 day system flush which requires you to drive the car around over the course of the 3 days for 3-6 hours.(Ill shoot for 3). The car was doing good and even under heavy driving stayed around 207 without ac. Then out of no where the car shot up to 220+ and stayed there no matter what type of driving. Anyone think it could be more air or possibly rust moving around in the system backing up. Could something be expanding when heated causing a the clog. The flush has only been in there for a few hours.
Symptoms point to poorly pressurized cooling system.



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:17 AM.