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Old 08-29-2013, 10:34 AM   #81
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So a little update... I took out the intercooler, radiator and looked at the AC condenser to see if there were any obstructions or bent fins causing the lack of airflow. All seems good so my next step is going to be going to Home depot to pick up stuff to create better ducting. I am also going to put in better flowing fans and I am getting rid of the aluminum shroud so it will be on the classifieds soon. After browsing around it seems that there are some issues going on with my current setup as 1. the mishi fans have low CFM and 2 the aluminum shroud prevents air from flowing rather than moves air on the highway from flowing through the radiator. When I think about its design its almost like a metal parachute trapping hot air.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:01 AM   #82
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have you tried bolting your stock fans back up? sounds like you have a shroud that blocks a majority of airflow.

also, you sure your stat isn't failed?
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:16 AM   #83
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have you tried bolting your stock fans back up? sounds like you have a shroud that blocks a majority of airflow.

also, you sure your stat isn't failed?

My stock fans broke a while back and my dumbass self threw the shroud away with it. I dont have a t stat in my car. Ever since the first time it overheated I took it out and never put it back in. My buddy ran his NA miata last winter without one and it didnt take too long to warm up with out it. The winters here dont get that bad to necessarily have one.
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:12 PM   #84
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Your buddies aren't helping you.
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:25 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Your buddies aren't helping you.

Is that a question or a statement?

My friend lives in Dallas as I moved to San Marcos. If your implying that not running a thermostat is a bad idea. I don't understand how it can really hurt other then warming up the engine faster.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:40 PM   #86
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Is that a question or a statement?

My friend lives in Dallas as I moved to San Marcos. If your implying that not running a thermostat is a bad idea. I don't understand how it can really hurt other then warming up the engine faster.
The thermostat is there first to warm your engine to operating temperature and then to hold it there by allowing water to go through the radiator. Running without a thermostat in a standard setup will cause the water to circulate more into the radiator and will cause the engine to overheat because of lack of circulation.

Put the thermostat back in!
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Old 08-29-2013, 03:06 PM   #87
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All fans are good and im not loosing any coolant. Runs at about 195-200F at a sitting still with ac on. Under boost or at speeds at 60-70 the car gets to 230F and will keep increasing if I were to let it. I ordered an undertray and and new temp sensor. If that dont fix it I am completely at a loss of what to do. I understand a coolant re route helps but I am not even driving the car hard and it overheats.
This is the EXACT problem I am having... Idling with AC on stays at 200, get on the highway and up it goes to 230. Keeps going up if the AC doesn't get shut off. Without the AC on, on the highway I stay @ 220.
My cooling sytem:

FM's older aluminum radiator.
M-tuned reroute.
FM spal fan kit.
90% water 10 % coolant.
Thermostat replaced with 185* unit. No change in problem.
Stock undertray.
Trackdog intercooler with all the shrouding.
System burped properly.
Water pump replaced less then 10k miles ago.
No leaks.

I measured with a pyrometer several places in the cooling system one morning before running the car, everywhere I measured was within 1 degree of what MS was showing.

Something to note though is that my stock dash temperature gauge never goes to 12 o'clock or past... Anyone know at what the stock gauge will continue to rise? Not sure if knowing this will help eliminate and problems with sensors... bleh.
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Old 08-29-2013, 03:32 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by LukeH View Post
Trackdog intercooler with all the shrouding.
What kind of shrouding do you have? Can you take a pic?

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Originally Posted by LukeH View Post
Something to note though is that my stock dash temperature gauge never goes to 12 o'clock or past... Anyone know at what the stock gauge will continue to rise? Not sure if knowing this will help eliminate and problems with sensors... bleh.
I want to say the stock gauge doesn't start to move until ~235-ish
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Old 08-29-2013, 03:49 PM   #89
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The thermostat is there first to warm your engine to operating temperature and then to hold it there by allowing water to go through the radiator. Running without a thermostat in a standard setup will cause the water to circulate more into the radiator and will cause the engine to overheat because of lack of circulation.

Put the thermostat back in!
I cant fit the thermostat in because the Auto meter temp sensor will not fit with it in. Its either one or the other. I actually seem to be running cooler without the thermostat in. What I mean by that is after driving a couple hours it caps around 215-225 with ac off. Where as when the thermostat was in it was getting up to 245-250. I swapped in two different thermostats and got the same thing. All together I tried a 160 degree and two 180 degree thermostats. I confirmed all readings through megasquirt as to maintain a constant variable. Thermostats were installed according to BEGis instruction for the coolant reroute.
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Old 08-29-2013, 03:54 PM   #90
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This is the EXACT problem I am having... Idling with AC on stays at 200, get on the highway and up it goes to 230. Keeps going up if the AC doesn't get shut off. Without the AC on, on the highway I stay @ 220.
My cooling sytem:

FM's older aluminum radiator.
M-tuned reroute.
FM spal fan kit.
90% water 10 % coolant.
Thermostat replaced with 185* unit. No change in problem.
Stock undertray.
Trackdog intercooler with all the shrouding.
System burped properly.
Water pump replaced less then 10k miles ago.
No leaks.

I measured with a pyrometer several places in the cooling system one morning before running the car, everywhere I measured was within 1 degree of what MS was showing.

Something to note though is that my stock dash temperature gauge never goes to 12 o'clock or past... Anyone know at what the stock gauge will continue to rise? Not sure if knowing this will help eliminate and problems with sensors... bleh.

Luke this scares the **** out of me. Im glad I am not alone but sad that you have to be in the same boat as me. Hopefully we get it figured out. Oh and yeah my stock gauge starts to move around 235-240 degrees.
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Old 08-29-2013, 03:56 PM   #91
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I stand corrected. Your first post in this thread stated that you had the thermostat in place and a standard setup. In the standard setup you starve the back of the engine of cooling if you remove the thermostat. I missed the later post where you had done the reroute. What did you do at the front of the engine when you did the reroute? Block it? Maybe some pictures of where you are now would help on the fans and reroute.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:22 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
The thermostat is there first to warm your engine to operating temperature and then to hold it there by allowing water to go through the radiator. Running without a thermostat in a standard setup will cause the water to circulate more into the radiator and will cause the engine to overheat because of lack of circulation.

Put the thermostat back in!
What?

The thermostat is important in order to warm the engine up to normal operating temperatures sooner, which helps, among other things, to bring your oil temperature up to operating temperature quickly. If detonation is like a bomb for engines, cold oil is like a slow cancer. Without that thermostat letting the engine get nice and toasty, your engine oil stays colder, and your spinny and slidey parts wear faster.

I can see no situation in which the lack of a thermostat could possibly make the car run hotter, with the possible exception of of very slightly lowering the pressure inside of the block which might allow boiling - but probably not.

Edit: Oh yeah, sorry, I missed the "standard setup" part of your post... which makes your post accurate. I was confused because I had my understanding connected to the "rerouted setup" in this thread. Carry on.


Regarding running the car with A/C all day at 200, but shooting to 235++ as soon as you get on the freeway, I had this exact problem, I did everything in the book, put on massive SPAL fans, big fat koyo radiator, coolant reroute, tried several different thermostats, restricted the heater flow coolant path, added some sheet metal for "ducting", bought and installed an expensive carbon fiber flyin' miata heat extraction hood, rebuilt the undertray, etc., etc.

The reason that we tell people that they must do proper ducting is because it is the one single proven method that works to eliminate freeway heat creep EVERY TIME. Nothing else will solve this problem. If you ducted your radiator and you're still experiencing freeway heat creep, then you didn't duct well enough. You can do a shitty job and it wont fix your problem, you can do a decent job and you probably wont see a difference, you can do a good job and you might blow me off when you still see creep, but only slightly slower, but to see the results you are looking for, you MUST do a "great" job ducting. It doesn't have to be "impeccable", and it doesn't have to be "perfect", but if you, for a split second, decide that you've done a "good enough" job, I'm going to tell you: "It ain't good enough".

While removing a fan shroud might make a small difference if you have small shitty fans, if you have decent sized, quality fans that cover the majority of your radiator surface, and your shroud has "stand off" allowing the fans to draw air from the covered portion of the radiator, your shroud/fans are not creating a limitation on your cooling system on public roads...ANY public roads...that aren't in Germany.

I now have the opposite problem. When I'm driving on the freeway in 90+ degree temps with the A/C on full blast, my temperature never climbs above 185*... just so you're aware, at 185* my 180* thermostat is regulating my coolant flow because my radiator cools "too well". Once I stop, though, my temps start climbing to 225*+. My problem isn't a mystery though, after doing a lot of duct work, my fans have too much standoff from the radiator now, a little bit of metal bending will quickly fix that up, but I've lost too much fun summer to worry about it now, I'd rather just enjoy it for the rest of the summer and fix it in the winter.

Last edited by fooger03; 08-29-2013 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:33 PM   #93
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I stand corrected. Your first post in this thread stated that you had the thermostat in place and a standard setup. In the standard setup you starve the back of the engine of cooling if you remove the thermostat. I missed the later post where you had done the reroute. What did you do at the front of the engine when you did the reroute? Block it? Maybe some pictures of where you are now would help on the fans and reroute.
I don't really understand this.
Anywho...
I will get some pictures this evening and report back.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:42 PM   #94
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I don't really understand this.
Anywho...
I will get some pictures this evening and report back.
Im not sure if he is talking to you or me.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:44 PM   #95
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Im not sure if he is talking to you or me.
I am not sure who you are talking to...
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:55 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 View Post
Do a search and check your fans.


Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Put the magic funnel on the radiator fill hole. Put water in the funnel until the radiator is full and there is water still in the funnel. Turn on the car and let it warm up. Make sure that the funnel stays filled with water, let the car run and cycle the fans on and off 3 times. Turn off car once that is done and put on radiator cap. The car should then have no air bubbles in the coolant. What radiator do you have in the car? Do you have all stock ducting in place.
Thanks, I'll get that.

TSE radiator. As far as ducting, I'm curious why you think that's key when parked?
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:06 PM   #97
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So I did some ducting and put in some siliconeintake fans rated at 1600 cfm. I refilled and burped somewhat. I then took it for a drive and it begain to boil over and over heat.(on highway and street) I went a head and put it up in the garage going to wait till it cools off and refill it back up with coolant and see if it over heats agian. So far im not feeling too optimistic about it. I took off the front bumper and used thin alluminum sheet from lowes to duct and I added a cooling plate to try and box everything in. The fans seem to be pulling a good amount of air through the intercooler. I can put a piece of paper on the intercooler and it will pull enough air to keep it attached. Any Ideas?

EDIT Also want to mention its 100 degrees out
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:10 PM   #98
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I wonder if you have a headgasket issue. It's time for a compression / leakdown test.

C
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:12 PM   #99
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You probably did a shitty job on the ducting. It took six pages of bullshit to get here, where you should have started?

Also, you will receive no sympathy from us until you procure His Majesty, Magic Funnel.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:12 PM   #100
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I wonder if you have a headgasket issue. It's time for a compression / leakdown test.

C
Wouldnt I be losing coolant if I had a headgasket issue?
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