Performance Head Build
05-23-2019, 08:27 AM
#23
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Location: Louisville,KY
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Quinn does have a really nice NB, hes built that car over many years but its still a stock bottom end on his. However he has shaved the head to within an inch of its life to raise the CR and that helps too.
Personally I would turbo the car, "massage" or whatever, the miata engine takes very well to a turbo. A 200whp turbo miata is great fun and it can be done for the same amount or less than what you are planning on in your first post.
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05-23-2019, 08:59 AM
#24
Quinn does have a really nice NB, hes built that car over many years but its still a stock bottom end on his. However he has shaved the head to within an inch of its life to raise the CR and that helps too.
Personally I would turbo the car, "massage" or whatever, the miata engine takes very well to a turbo. A 200whp turbo miata is great fun and it can be done for the same amount or less than what you are planning on in your first post.
Personally I would turbo the car, "massage" or whatever, the miata engine takes very well to a turbo. A 200whp turbo miata is great fun and it can be done for the same amount or less than what you are planning on in your first post.
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05-23-2019, 09:20 AM
#26
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Step 1: Vomit all the money into an n/a BP.
Step 2: Realize it sucks and you wasted money
Step 3: Vomit more money into turbo setup
Step 4: Drive sometimes. Break often.
Step 5: part out car
Step 6: buy new car
Step 7: Turbo again, but do it right this time
Step 8: Drive on track
Step 9: Realize that care and feeding of a turbo miata on track sucks
Step 10: Part out car
Step 11: buy new car
Step 12: Do step 1, but less, because you don't want to waste money, then spend the rest of the money on safety equipment
Step 13: N/A track glory
Step 14: Sing "The Circle of Life" by Elton John.
Step 15: K swap
The question is: Will you spend the $20k up front to skip to Step 15? Or will you take the long, way more expensive, and way more annoying path.
Step 2: Realize it sucks and you wasted money
Step 3: Vomit more money into turbo setup
Step 4: Drive sometimes. Break often.
Step 5: part out car
Step 6: buy new car
Step 7: Turbo again, but do it right this time
Step 8: Drive on track
Step 9: Realize that care and feeding of a turbo miata on track sucks
Step 10: Part out car
Step 11: buy new car
Step 12: Do step 1, but less, because you don't want to waste money, then spend the rest of the money on safety equipment
Step 13: N/A track glory
Step 14: Sing "The Circle of Life" by Elton John.
Step 15: K swap
The question is: Will you spend the $20k up front to skip to Step 15? Or will you take the long, way more expensive, and way more annoying path.
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05-23-2019, 09:38 AM
#28
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lol, sorry I was like a newborn baby I had no idea what you meant initially.
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05-23-2019, 09:45 AM
#29
mkturbo.com
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What Quin built is not normal. For every one Quin I have seen hundreds of people try and fail. Doing headwork is not worth the money in the miata motor. They just suck compared to everything else. Adding a turbo and turning up boost 2psi more will get you more performance then thousands of dollars into the head.
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05-23-2019, 10:08 AM
#30
What Quin built is not normal. For every one Quin I have seen hundreds of people try and fail. Doing headwork is not worth the money in the miata motor. They just suck compared to everything else. Adding a turbo and turning up boost 2psi more will get you more performance then thousands of dollars into the head.
Disagree. What Quinn built is normal-bordering-on-disappointing in terms of results vs effort/parts list. Is it a normal build? No, because there's not many people dumb enough to spend a bunch of time/money/effort into building an n/a BP unless they're limited by a rules set.
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05-23-2019, 10:50 AM
#31
The chances of a 106k NB2 having sufficient compression and low enough leakdown (<5%) to be ready for head work is nil. You are more likely to be surprised by lots of blowby when you put your trick new head on it.
As rebuilding the bottom end affects your budget significantly, do the tests now and post results. BP6D heads (or any VVT engine) need to have compression checked with oil up to temp.
Meanwhile, I'll read the rest of this thread..
As rebuilding the bottom end affects your budget significantly, do the tests now and post results. BP6D heads (or any VVT engine) need to have compression checked with oil up to temp.
Meanwhile, I'll read the rest of this thread..
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05-23-2019, 10:50 AM
#32
Retired Mech Design Engr
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I like my plan... duh, that is why it is my plan. Limited experience to date. Only one Miata (unlike Hornetball), so street tuned and run (in summer) at about 225WHP, and turn it down to a more empathetic 175WHP (waste gate) for the track.
Keeps track temps in check on a budget build. Power still a bit more than a massaged N/A.
Trick is to not turn it up over time.
Keeps track temps in check on a budget build. Power still a bit more than a massaged N/A.
Trick is to not turn it up over time.
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05-23-2019, 11:40 AM
#33
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From Quinn's build thread:
Engine:
2002 Block 10:1 compression
1999 BP4W head, ported and shaved .100”
Maruha's 264’ / 264’ 10mm Lift Camshafts
Toda Adjustable Cam Gears
Supertech Single Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Mazdaspeed SUBS
New OEM Valve Seals
OEM Head Gasket .020”
TWM 50mm Individual Throttle Bodies
36 lb Fuel Injectors
ITG Sausage filter and backing plate
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Adaptronics Standalone ECU
Maruha VP Race Header without Venturi
Racing Beat Resonated Race Pipe 2.375"
Jet's Integral Kobe Muffler 2.375"
Garage Star Alternator and Waterpump Pulleys
949 Racing Super Miata Crank Pulley
Boundary Engineering Billet Oil Pump
6.2 lb Spec Billet Pressure Plate
7.1 lb Fidanza Flywheel
1.3 lb Clutchnet Unsprung Street Disk
Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
Chikara Motorsports Oil Catch Can
Koyo 52mm Radiator
Koyo 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap
Mishimoto Slim Fan
Samco Radiator Hoses
Flyin Miata Oil Cooler Kit
Beatrush Radiator Cooling Panel
2002 Block 10:1 compression
1999 BP4W head, ported and shaved .100”
Maruha's 264’ / 264’ 10mm Lift Camshafts
Toda Adjustable Cam Gears
Supertech Single Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
Mazdaspeed SUBS
New OEM Valve Seals
OEM Head Gasket .020”
TWM 50mm Individual Throttle Bodies
36 lb Fuel Injectors
ITG Sausage filter and backing plate
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Adaptronics Standalone ECU
Maruha VP Race Header without Venturi
Racing Beat Resonated Race Pipe 2.375"
Jet's Integral Kobe Muffler 2.375"
Garage Star Alternator and Waterpump Pulleys
949 Racing Super Miata Crank Pulley
Boundary Engineering Billet Oil Pump
6.2 lb Spec Billet Pressure Plate
7.1 lb Fidanza Flywheel
1.3 lb Clutchnet Unsprung Street Disk
Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
Chikara Motorsports Oil Catch Can
Koyo 52mm Radiator
Koyo 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap
Mishimoto Slim Fan
Samco Radiator Hoses
Flyin Miata Oil Cooler Kit
Beatrush Radiator Cooling Panel
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05-23-2019, 12:00 PM
#34
Assuming your 106k bottom end, ~145whp
Assuming rebuilt bottom end, ~160whp
Both assuming no catalytic perverter. Drop 10whp for cat.
Those cams will let it breathe well past 7000 but your old, stock bottom end will not be happy there. I'd budget for some name brand China forged rods (Manley, Eagle, K1, Scat etc.).
When you rebuild the bottom end, stay below 10.4:1 for 93 octane. If it will never see boost, go 85.5 because then you can round up and say "It's a two liter".
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05-23-2019, 03:06 PM
#38
Quinn's build and result make sense. In 2013 we took a blueprinted 9.95:1, 83.5mm bottom end with stock weight rods, blueprinted BP4W head (no porting, stock size valves), big cams, ITB's, E85 and nothing else. Made 190whp. That bottom end was worth maybe 5-6whp over a stock rebuild.
So basically just cams and ITB's were worth about 35whp
Year before that made 182whp with smaller cams, BP6D CNC +2 head, 85.5/11.0:1, square top on 91 octane. That engine had a lot of fancy coatings.
So basically just cams and ITB's were worth about 35whp
Year before that made 182whp with smaller cams, BP6D CNC +2 head, 85.5/11.0:1, square top on 91 octane. That engine had a lot of fancy coatings.
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05-23-2019, 05:02 PM
#40
SadFab CEO
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Location: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
Posts: 4,560
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MS3 Pro PNP ECU
Shave 20 thou, 3 angle valve job, port/polish
Supertech Dual Spring Kit
Supertech SUB Lifters
Skunk2 Throttle Body
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Tomei Cams 252 deg intake 256 deg exhaust
Racing Beat Header
New Injectors
New Fuel Rail (this one is especially disgusting)
Will be running 93 octane pump gas
Supertech Dual Spring Kit
Supertech SUB Lifters
Skunk2 Throttle Body
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Tomei Cams 252 deg intake 256 deg exhaust
Racing Beat Header
New Injectors
Will be running 93 octane pump gas
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