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Old 11-10-2015, 12:40 AM   #161
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Fun fact: during the blackout of '65, it was discovered that the fuel transfer pump, which brings diesel up from street level to the tank on the 79th floor, was not powered by the generator.
I just spit Gatorade out my nose.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:56 AM   #162
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
That engine won't turn over 3,000 under its own power unless something is very wrong.
Just noticed my typo in the above-referenced post.

Meant to say that I assume it's running 1,800.
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Old 11-10-2015, 12:59 AM   #163
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I just spit Gatorade out my nose.
It wasn't funny at the time.

WOR Network made the same mistake. The spent the '77 blackout humping 5 gallon jerry cans all the way up the stairs.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:54 AM   #164
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Remember. I'm the guy that bought a twin disc for a stock 1.6.

I'm doing it for science. I'm going to put a map sensor on the crankcase and run with the slash cut and without. Then I can log data and report. I plan on Y-ing the slashcut into the intake side so that there are 2 sources of vacuum. One under boost one under vacuum.
If you read my buyild thread then youd see that i did this already. you dont have to log the damn thing. do this

buy alum oil cap that fits
drill a ******* hole
jb weld in some stupid bung thing from plumbing section of home depot
--jb is appropriate cus ur not honda racing so just ******* do it
put fat vac line on it
run line to wiper
put mechanical vac/boost gauge on line
look at the damn thing. look

I started doing slashcut back when i was on gt3071 and only runnign 25psi. i "logged" 2-3psi at full boost. this was with a -12 line

I then added a second line and put on the only tuerbo that is worth being on a miata the borgwarner s366 and i think i "logged the same psi at the gauge at uh 35psi or something

i have lack of impressed feelings. the whole oil buildup in hoses or whatever happened to me too occasionally and it looks stupid. i am modifying to just dump at the rear bumper no slashcut. **** catch cans

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Q: do you love the smell of burnt oil and your rear bumper coated with it?
A: get a slashcut
oh shut up -____-

again, in my build thread i was once venting both sides of the valve cover to a redbull can shoved into a crew sock. i think that was actually a pretty good solution

btw ur guy never called me i need his love

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Allow me to tell you what to believe:

Lots of people have lots of different opinions with regard to crankcase ventilation. Some are formed on the basis of real-world experience on the racetrack, some on the basis of real-world experiencing building and maintaining street engines, some on the basis of a sound understanding of thermodynamics and fluid-dynamics, some on anecdotal knowledge of "what words" from old-timers, and some on pure idiocy.

Some of these methods work well, some don't, and some are likely to cause harm. Not all of the "don't work / cause harm" methods are restricted to the "pure idiocy" group.

What's perfectly adequate for a street-driven car may be inadequate on the track. What works well on the track will almost certainly cause you to fail a visual inspection in CA.

There is no single, unified answer for what's best in any specific application, however all of the answers that work have a few things in common. They provide a source of filtered air into the engine, and they actively draw contaminated air out of the engine, preferably through the PCV outlet on the valve cover. What happens to the air after that doesn't really matter so long as you're not accidentally pressurizing it, using it to contaminate the inside of your intercooler or MAF sensor, etc.
thank you for all the words joe and and the absolute nothing that is your conclusion. just as bad as "just ventt to intake brazh" or "catchacan rulzz"

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Snag me that turbo joe. Love me some cummins tan.
too ******* small ask mommy to buy it for your Quinceañera
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:52 AM   #165
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If you were seeing pressure in the crankcase you didn't open your bafgles up enough. I know you don't hang out around here anymore but there is a thread where he opens up the baffling by drilling out some holes no more pressure. Under boost.

**** the s366. Shitty bigass expensive turbo.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:51 PM   #166
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S366 is only like $550-600. How is that expensive comparatively? Journal PTE's are similarly priced, Garrett BB stuff is 1k+, EFR is 1500+.

Now... the supporting bits to actually make the S366 spool is another matter entirely.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:54 PM   #167
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Used OEM turbo's are like $10.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #168
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S366 is OEM for John Deer Tractors.

So used they are also like $10.



*I have nothing else useful to contribute other than sharing the disdain for entirely painted diesel engines.*.
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:58 PM   #169
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turbo's
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:01 PM   #170
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I can't see the picture's
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:02 PM   #171
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I have no clue how that apo'strophe got in there. I'm deeply 'sorry, it wa's not intentional. Plea'se don't be mad.
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Old 11-10-2015, 03:06 PM   #172
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'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''!
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Old 07-22-2017, 11:10 AM   #173
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Resurrection!
Back to this old argument. Flipping through this and most other vent block threads, I have not seen or heard mention of this: two holes-one block. One vent for fresh air in, the other for vacuum. If just a small (TINY brass type) filter was used for the clean air source, it would provide the clean air to clear the block, without ruining all the good vacuum benefits.

Is there even a place on the opposite side of the block to add another vent?
Si or no?
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:12 PM   #174
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Double block vent idea cant even start an argument around here? What the hell is going on?


DERP DERP- just use the passenger side for fresh air in, in a system that makes substantial vacuum.

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Old 07-24-2017, 08:41 PM   #175
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Your description is vague, pictures help......
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Old 07-24-2017, 09:45 PM   #176
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The only reason I was thinking of using the valve cover driver side, was to avoid overpowering the block vent and suckling oil. Valve cover passenger side only feeds air to the system. Preferably with a slightly restrictive filter for the clean air. I want to keep a slight vacuum if I can. The venturi in my intake makes a massive amount of vacuum, so I think this will work well.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:07 AM   #177
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That looks good. I'm not sure about the one smaller line or how well it will work but your diagram in theory looks to vent the crankcase with vacuum and prevent oil from going in the intake. Baffles and/or filter media in the catch can might help separate as much oil out as possible before it goes to the intake tube. Getting a significant amount of oil in your charge pipes and intercooler might negate any benefit but it's worth a shot IMO. Your flow through the valve cover is backwards compared to the stock setup. Normally the exhaust side of the valve cover is the fresh air side. There are some posts on here about opening up the passages in the valve cover baffle, adding copper scrub pad or stainless steel wool, and resealing it with RTV. I think that step is pretty important.
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:08 AM   #178
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HAHAH, I dont run an empty catch can. All other supporting mad have also been done to the valve cover.

I want fresh air entering through the otherwise shitty passenger side of the valve cover.
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:08 AM   #179
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HAHAH, I dont run an empty catch can. All other supporting mods have also been done to the valve cover.

I want fresh air entering through the otherwise shitty passenger side of the valve cover.

Smaller hose on the VC was to help ensure moar vacuum at the block.
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Old 07-25-2017, 11:01 AM   #180
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I don't think it will work well the way it is drawn. You will end up with vapor coming out of the "fresh air in hole" and you will also end up with light oil vapor entering the turbo and increasing the chances of detonation. Oil vapor lowers the octane of the air/fuel mixture.
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