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Plates are surprisingly easy to put on, just two screws
My NA8 200whp mx5 is road registered in Australia. It doesn't get driven on the road except for testing and then its just driven around the block. At that power level with a N/A engine it doesn't really like to idle and the exhaust is a bit loud. I compete in a road registered class so I keep it registered.
I'm looking forward to see the dyno with the ITBs. You generally get big harmonic dips based on trumpet lengths.
One big question I have and see happening on your car as well.
At higher RPM's the factory oil pressure gauge drops off significantly, looked like it was in the 15's near the limiter in the video.
I've noticed at the track when I had my rev limit raise to 7200 rpms vs the actual factory cut of 6950 (94) that the oil pressure gauge would drop slightly. That lead me to short shift to eliminate the drop.
Is the oil pressure actually dropping that much or is the gauge and or reader get funky above a certain rpm?
One big question I have and see happening on your car as well.
At higher RPM's the factory oil pressure gauge drops off significantly, looked like it was in the 15's near the limiter in the video.
I've noticed at the track when I had my rev limit raise to 7200 rpms vs the actual factory cut of 6950 (94) that the oil pressure gauge would drop slightly. That lead me to short shift to eliminate the drop.
Is the oil pressure actually dropping that much or is the gauge and or reader get funky above a certain rpm?
Gauge. Has something to do with voltage through the dash. Also flickers with the turn signals. Oil pressure is fine.
My oil pressure gauge has been doing that same crap for 3 years, I've torn the car apart and sanded and star washered every ground and it still does it, I'm guessing sender or actual gauge issue. I figure if it were actually true I would have lost the motor a long time ago, has made it through thousands of track miles just fine.
Back on topic, that thing looks WAY more well mannered than I thought it would be. Looking forward to the dyno.
My oil pressure gauge has been doing that same crap for 3 years, I've torn the car apart and sanded and star washered every ground and it still does it, I'm guessing sender or actual gauge issue. I figure if it were actually true I would have lost the motor a long time ago, has made it through thousands of track miles just fine.
Back on topic, that thing looks WAY more well mannered than I thought it would be. Looking forward to the dyno.
Real gauges FTW. This car was built to be simple. No gauges other than the WB02 we use for tuning.
Real gauges FTW. This car was built to be simple. No gauges other than the WB02 we use for tuning.
Yes definitely lol. Saving up for a Race Technology Dash2 Pro, already have senders installed for everything. Just need to wire them to the ECU then it's one serial cable from ECU to dash and I'm good to go. Safety prep for wheel to wheel wiped out most of the budget for now...
This car looked like an absolute monster Sunday. Before I knew the details of the build I was sure it was a supercharged 1.8 with its obvious combination of power and response. Also put my car to shame by 4.644 seconds
For anyone that wants a frame of reference for just how fast this car is, here's me with +50whp nowhere near the Taxi's pace:
^^^ I guess its true that ITB's are king of engine response.
To be fair, he was on Hoosier R6 vs my worn NT01, but above all a far more experienced and seasoned driver. I wish I would have had the chance to ride along and learn a thing or ten.
Ran out of time on the dyno but got it pretty close. Another 5-10whp once we play around with injection timing, ex cam timing and fine tune VVT tables a bit more. Motor is for sale BTW. Email us directly if you are interested. We can build you something as simple as a blueprinted stock BP or anything in between.
edit: Somebody pointed out that I didn't set the display to SAE correction which was 1.01 for this run. So 201whp / 158tq corrected. Doh.
Its cool this engine is available for purchase. I want to know how do you achieve 13.5 to 1 compression ratio on your pistons?
Is E-85 or racing fuel the only to operate this thing and avoid detonation?
Its cool this engine is available for purchase. I want to know how do you achieve 13.5 to 1 compression ratio on your pistons?
Is E-85 or racing fuel the only to operate this thing and avoid detonation?
100 octane unleaded race gas will also work at this CR. E85 makes about 5% more power and costs a lot less though.
08-30-2015, 01:09 AM
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