pros/cons 1.6L vs 1.8L
05-21-2010, 09:58 PM
#21
Sav sure does have a way of putting everything into perspective.
That being said, you can spend your $$ building the most badass track miata that exists yet, and you still wont be even as fast as a spec miata around a track. Start with the 1.8, small turbo, spend the rest on suspension and learn to drive.
That being said, you can spend your $$ building the most badass track miata that exists yet, and you still wont be even as fast as a spec miata around a track. Start with the 1.8, small turbo, spend the rest on suspension and learn to drive.
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05-21-2010, 10:06 PM
#22
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1.8s will make more power everywhere, all else being equal. It's 240+ccs of additional displacement. To put that in perspective, the difference between a stock 1.8 and the FM 2.0 stroker is less than 160ccs.
On small turbos, the spool difference is negligible. We're talking 2554/2560 sized stuff, it's a couple hundred RPM. Once you get into a 28R frame turbo, like a 2860RS, the differences is very noticeable IMO. The 1.6 car will spool slower, later and harder - it will make less torque down low and be harder to drive.
At the end of the day, in order to reach a reliable, track-duty approved 250whp, you're going to spend 7-8k between the built motor, 6-speed, new diff, good turbo manifold, quality intercooler, the oil cooler, the name-brand clutch, the radiator, and all the other little crap that adds up super fast. The last thing you want to do is skimp out in the beginning and start with an inferior drivetrain because you wanted to save $400 at the beginning of your $8000 build. Do it right the first time, you'll thank me later.
On small turbos, the spool difference is negligible. We're talking 2554/2560 sized stuff, it's a couple hundred RPM. Once you get into a 28R frame turbo, like a 2860RS, the differences is very noticeable IMO. The 1.6 car will spool slower, later and harder - it will make less torque down low and be harder to drive.
At the end of the day, in order to reach a reliable, track-duty approved 250whp, you're going to spend 7-8k between the built motor, 6-speed, new diff, good turbo manifold, quality intercooler, the oil cooler, the name-brand clutch, the radiator, and all the other little crap that adds up super fast. The last thing you want to do is skimp out in the beginning and start with an inferior drivetrain because you wanted to save $400 at the beginning of your $8000 build. Do it right the first time, you'll thank me later.
sti owners upgrading form 6 speed to 5 speed? HAHAHHAH are you retarded?
Evo owners on the other hand, DO change from the MR 6 speed to the regular 5 speed cause the 5 speeds are just as strong if not stronger and have better rations (though still shitty cuase they're so close)
Evo owners on the other hand, DO change from the MR 6 speed to the regular 5 speed cause the 5 speeds are just as strong if not stronger and have better rations (though still shitty cuase they're so close)
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05-22-2010, 12:19 AM
#25
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Nice, what is your current set-up. Based on the responses you are a 1.8l with some sort of T28 (T2871r?) and based on the power range your shooting for, your upgrading to a 30r setup presumably? Are you on stock internals?
Last edited by Shane; 05-22-2010 at 06:37 AM.
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05-22-2010, 01:28 AM
#26
if you swapped in a 1.8 you could make the 250whp with stock internals pretty reliably with a good tune. It will also spool faster and be easier to drive. i bought my 1.8 form some jdm import company with a 5spd with 40k miles for like 900 shipped. so its much cheaper to swap to the 1.8 then to build the 1.6. Also i think the 5spd will hold up for a while at 250whp specially if you go kinda easy on it goin into third. 1.6 rear end will go out for sure though.
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05-27-2010, 09:56 PM
#32
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At the end of the day, in order to reach a reliable, track-duty approved 250whp, you're going to spend 7-8k between the built motor, 6-speed, new diff, good turbo manifold, quality intercooler, the oil cooler, the name-brand clutch, the radiator, and all the other little crap that adds up super fast. The last thing you want to do is skimp out in the beginning and start with an inferior drivetrain because you wanted to save $400 at the beginning of your $8000 build. Do it right the first time, you'll thank me later.
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05-27-2010, 10:26 PM
#34
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The only things I'd like to change are to pick up a set of Xida's, huge wing, and an accusump. I wish I did the accusump from the start, but I'm in kayak mode now and not spending any more cash on this car...its finished and does exactly what I want.
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05-28-2010, 09:48 AM
#37
$18k I think. I had to do a few things twice so I could probably build a copy for about $14-16,000 from scratch.
The only things I'd like to change are to pick up a set of Xida's, huge wing, and an accusump. I wish I did the accusump from the start, but I'm in kayak mode now and not spending any more cash on this car...its finished and does exactly what I want.
The only things I'd like to change are to pick up a set of Xida's, huge wing, and an accusump. I wish I did the accusump from the start, but I'm in kayak mode now and not spending any more cash on this car...its finished and does exactly what I want.
14-16 is not bad at all, considering you can pound on your **** with the fury and not be paranoid anymore.
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05-31-2010, 03:02 AM
#39
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Gotcha, where is the 6 speed trans being sourced from? The NB miata's or mazdaspeed miatas? Do they come in the later 94-97 NA's? Also, im not looking to build a track car, not meaning that i dont care about reliability, but i just want something that will be super fun to street and drive daily. I think i need to re-evaluate how much power i want to make. Since I haven't ever driven a crazy miata (only stock) i have no way to compare hp levels. I have driven a handfull of 300-350hp Srt-4 with .50trims, an s13 with a 500whp hx35 rb25, and a 03 cobra with a pully. Where would a 250whp miata stack up amongst the group?
The 6-speeds are sourced from any 99+ miata that had it - you have to find a special edition or sport package car. Expect to spend $700-800 on a good one. If you can find an MSM box with low miles, it's worth $1000.
If you want stone reliable on a budget, do a 2560 at like 10-12psi, keep it in the 220whp range, and leave your healthy stock longblock alone.
Yea, Im retarded, thanks for your help/input.
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