Notices
Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: KPower

rear main seal input, in too far?

Old Aug 16, 2011 | 02:23 PM
  #1  
Clos561's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 725
Total Cats: 5
From: Royal Palm Beach, FL
Default rear main seal input, in too far?

I was putting in a new rear main seal and one side went in a bit too far so I just pushed in the other sides so they are all equal depth. What do you guys think? will this leak or be ok?





Attached Thumbnails rear main seal input, in too far?-2011-08-16135150.jpg   rear main seal input, in too far?-2011-08-16135111.jpg   rear main seal input, in too far?-2011-08-16135052.jpg   rear main seal input, in too far?-2011-08-16135035.jpg   rear main seal input, in too far?-2011-08-16135006.jpg  

Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #2  
Sean's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,516
Total Cats: 20
From: Harpers Ferry WV
Default

Looks good to me. You should have been able to feel it bottom out in the seal holder. If anything the actual sealing lip on the seal will be riding on a new part of the crank to help it seal better. Volvo does not have a step in the head for the cam seal to seat against for this reason. When it leaks and you put a new one in you slid it back just a little more.lol
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #3  
shuiend's Avatar
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 15,235
Total Cats: 1,700
From: Charleston SC
Default

It will leak just because you don't want it to. I hate changing RMS.
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 07:33 AM
  #4  
soloracer's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 782
Total Cats: 4
From: Ohio
Default

Looks good as far as I can tell from the pics. I obsessed about pushing mine in too far and ended up buying a second one and re-doing it. Mine was pushed in a bit further than yours, but the reason I re-did it was that it was crooked and I couldn't get it even the first time.

I think getting it straight is more important than it being slightly deeper than you want it.
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 10:41 AM
  #5  
Clos561's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 725
Total Cats: 5
From: Royal Palm Beach, FL
Default

cool, i will be putting the new clutch in and installing my tranny back on today so fun
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #6  
soloracer's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 782
Total Cats: 4
From: Ohio
Default

Yeah, I think I hated the clutch install more than anything else I did on my car. The real bummer was that I ended up pulling the whole motor/tranny anyway AFTER the clutch was done.
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 11:04 AM
  #7  
gospeed81's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (51)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,257
Total Cats: 26
From: Spring, TX
Default

I purposely set all new seals in ~1/8" further than what came out. This has worked well for cam, crank and rear main seals.

I have seen and studied wear on steel cylindrical parts from seals at work. Hard to believe...but it happens. By not setting the new seal in exactly the same spot you can actually ensure it will do it's job -better-.

*EDIT: I actually think it's due to foreign materials in the lubricant medium becoming trapped in the seal groove. This causes fretting, where the greater surface irregularities can exceed the thickness of the lubricant film and cause wear on the rubber seal.
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 04:40 PM
  #8  
illiasfyntanidis's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 46
Total Cats: 7
From: Greece,Athens
Default

Well i did an RMS today but i faced two problems.....the oil seal did not flush with the bracket as the manual says but it weant more far inside and second i can see that the oil seal lip does not seal the crank 100%...i can slide a paper edge through the first lip,but it stucks as it shold be in the end of the second oil lip...
Those who had done it do you remember if the lip of seal touches the crank or not?


something else that i noticed with the old oil seal is that the 2 lips do not come in the same line.If you take the seal of and let it hang on a pencil you will notice that the seal leans foward....
Am i wrong?
Attached Thumbnails rear main seal input, in too far?-null-148.jpg  
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:59 PM
  #9  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,168
Total Cats: 1,393
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

New engine? That looks clean.

Is there a diameter spec in the haynes manual for the crank seal surface? Might wanna check that out.
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #10  
Sean's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,516
Total Cats: 20
From: Harpers Ferry WV
Default

It looks pretty good. It does not look like it is in too far, but it looks kinds strange in the upper left side of the seal on the picture. It may just be the angle but all the seals I have changed rear mains, crank, cams ect. the seal is pretty snug all the way around the small gap you speak of would have me worried a bit. May be worth a trip to the parts store to see if another one fits better. That is a job you don't want to do twice since it is such a PITA.
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 07:23 PM
  #11  
illiasfyntanidis's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 46
Total Cats: 7
From: Greece,Athens
Default

Originally Posted by curly
New engine? That looks clean.

Is there a diameter spec in the haynes manual for the crank seal surface? Might wanna check that out.
No old engine from the 99 model.....
I just like to keep things clean.I am in the midle of a clutch-tranny job and cleaned eveything from bellhousing,subframe etc plus the back of the engine from silicone RTV and oils...
Old Nov 24, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #12  
BTMiata's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,512
Total Cats: 30
From: South Jersey
Default

Thats further out than mine, so you are definitely Ok. I did my clutch and swapped the seal and ended up pushing it wayyy too far in. I am going to have to be very careful next time and drill it and pull it out with a screw.. Lol
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 02:52 AM
  #13  
xjdesertfox's Avatar
Newb
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 25
Total Cats: 0
Default

This is my RMS, its barely just past flush. This was installed with the FM tool.



Doesnt leak.
Attached Thumbnails rear main seal input, in too far?-20121116_120621.jpg  
Old Dec 6, 2012 | 01:21 AM
  #14  
good2go's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,815
Total Cats: 1,237
Default

Originally Posted by xjdesertfox

This is my RMS, its barely just past flush. This was installed with the FM tool.

...Doesnt leak.
That's interesting. I used the FM tool as well and mine came out just a little proud. Not a lot, but definitely noticeable.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zaphod
MEGAsquirt
47
Oct 26, 2018 11:00 PM
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
Apr 21, 2016 03:00 PM
lsc224
Miata parts for sale/trade
2
Oct 1, 2015 09:17 AM
mx592
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
1
Oct 1, 2015 12:45 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:51 AM.