Rebuild, not repeat...spun rod bearing
#21
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The water heater at home is likely around 125-130 degrees F and will scald you, leaving first and second degree burns. Oil should be 180 for minimum thrashing operating temperature, imo. And it warms much more slowly than the coolant, now that I have a gauge for both.
#22
I recently read on MT, "Rotella T6, your turbo loves that sh*t, your motor loves that sh*t, You love that sh*t"
#23
Are you guys serious with the oil temp thing? A trip around the block will heat the oil enough to make it uncomfortable to pull the drain plug and have it on your hand. After 5 min of driving the oil would be very uncomfortable on your hand like putting it under the kitchen faucet turned to hot.
I almost never run my car for 5 minutes before flogging it at an autocross. Never had an oiling issue.
I almost never run my car for 5 minutes before flogging it at an autocross. Never had an oiling issue.
#24
Long winded again… I seem like I do that (regrets)
I think it's a combination of many factors adding to increased oil flow resistance in this case.
1) The current sandwich plate (photo) seems to have smaller cooler lines (1/2 inch?)
2) With a typical cooler installation, there is 3 - 4 ft of cooler hose (or more) - longer lines more resistance,
3) No oil thermostat, ALL oil passes through the cooler so for a long time oil is at or only slightly above ambient temp (likely < 100 F) – thicker oil more resistance,
4) Oil pressure release valve is BEFORE the cooler so, with excessive flow resistance some part of the oil dumps back to the pan...
Hint - if you are really concerned about this one due to lots of cold weather use (winter rally car?), use an external pressure release valve AFTER the cooler and you will see engine oil pressure releasing at closer to normal when cold… (See Jegs or Summit for parts) Tee into the cooler return line just before the filter (or equv at sandwich plate).
OR cover the cooler so it has limited air flow.
Stock Mazda approach solves lots of issues here:
With no sandwich plate, cooler or cooler lines AND the stock cooler warming the oil with water as the engine warms up. Items 1 – 4 are all not an issue.
Oil heats faster… Great for keeping the oil warm in an autocross application once the water is warm.
Elsewhere Savington started an Oil Cooler thread. Lots of good stuff here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...er-tech-80234/
I stated in the above thread that mounting the cooler “ports up” will keep the cooler full so there is no concern with it draining back to the pan when parked (especially in a race engine that may go weeks between startups). Full cooler less chance of a low pressure or dry start… As the Oil Filter is AFTER the cooler, the anti drain back valve there is of no benefit… See sketch.
Several configurations in attached images... Mount your cooler as you see fit, I'd mount one ports up.
Also note, the oil thermostat ”Opens” the bypass when cold and “Closes” the bypass when hot.
I think it's a combination of many factors adding to increased oil flow resistance in this case.
1) The current sandwich plate (photo) seems to have smaller cooler lines (1/2 inch?)
2) With a typical cooler installation, there is 3 - 4 ft of cooler hose (or more) - longer lines more resistance,
3) No oil thermostat, ALL oil passes through the cooler so for a long time oil is at or only slightly above ambient temp (likely < 100 F) – thicker oil more resistance,
4) Oil pressure release valve is BEFORE the cooler so, with excessive flow resistance some part of the oil dumps back to the pan...
Hint - if you are really concerned about this one due to lots of cold weather use (winter rally car?), use an external pressure release valve AFTER the cooler and you will see engine oil pressure releasing at closer to normal when cold… (See Jegs or Summit for parts) Tee into the cooler return line just before the filter (or equv at sandwich plate).
OR cover the cooler so it has limited air flow.
Stock Mazda approach solves lots of issues here:
With no sandwich plate, cooler or cooler lines AND the stock cooler warming the oil with water as the engine warms up. Items 1 – 4 are all not an issue.
Oil heats faster… Great for keeping the oil warm in an autocross application once the water is warm.
Elsewhere Savington started an Oil Cooler thread. Lots of good stuff here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...er-tech-80234/
I stated in the above thread that mounting the cooler “ports up” will keep the cooler full so there is no concern with it draining back to the pan when parked (especially in a race engine that may go weeks between startups). Full cooler less chance of a low pressure or dry start… As the Oil Filter is AFTER the cooler, the anti drain back valve there is of no benefit… See sketch.
Several configurations in attached images... Mount your cooler as you see fit, I'd mount one ports up.
Also note, the oil thermostat ”Opens” the bypass when cold and “Closes” the bypass when hot.
#25
My set up has the lines and cooler below the oil filter.
I think my way forward will be a combo oil pressure/temp gauge and install the sandwich plate with a short loop of hose and no cooler until I determine if I really need it.
As for my problem, don't forget the VVT light came on BEFORE the bearing failure. Is there no one who gives credence to a timing/balance related failure?
I think my way forward will be a combo oil pressure/temp gauge and install the sandwich plate with a short loop of hose and no cooler until I determine if I really need it.
As for my problem, don't forget the VVT light came on BEFORE the bearing failure. Is there no one who gives credence to a timing/balance related failure?
#27
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Have we nailed down what he's using for engine management? All i've seen is "stock ECU."
Edit: and his intro thread also says nothing about engine management.
If you're running stock ECU with 8 PSI then we know exactly why your engine is screwed. But your build looks very well done so that seems unlikely...
Edit: and his intro thread also says nothing about engine management.
If you're running stock ECU with 8 PSI then we know exactly why your engine is screwed. But your build looks very well done so that seems unlikely...
#28
Have we nailed down what he's using for engine management? All i've seen is "stock ECU."
Edit: and his intro thread also says nothing about engine management.
If you're running stock ECU with 8 PSI then we know exactly why your engine is screwed. But your build looks very well done so that seems unlikely...
Edit: and his intro thread also says nothing about engine management.
If you're running stock ECU with 8 PSI then we know exactly why your engine is screwed. But your build looks very well done so that seems unlikely...
#30
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Well, everyone assumed you were running SOMETHING because you surely shouldn't be surprised that your engine went KABLOOEY running 8 psi on the stock ECU.
Wait, you're surprised, aren't you!
#31
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What were your ARFs in boost? Does you oil smell like fuel?
Here is my wild *** guess:
Here is my wild *** guess:
- Power card makes it run retarded rich under load
- Retarded rich causes fuel to wash past piston rings into crankcase and dilutes oil
- Oil never fully heats up so fuel never evaporates/burns off
- Dilution continues over time
- VVT stops working right because oil is too thin
- Oil gets so diluted it stops being oil
- Spun bearing
#35
Admittedly I don't know **** and i came to all of you to learn. I guess boost is boost but those who are familiar these systems seem to find them reliable.
I don't know for sure why the bearings failed. Whether it was oil only or if other balance/ timing/ fuel contributors are responsible I can't say. I only know that careful reassembly and the addition of monitoring and either eliminating the oil cooler or adding a tstat are the best possibility for success.
BTW I had not thought of the oil cooler as being a problem so thank you all for pointing that out to me.
It will be very disappointing if it becomes necessary to add a MS3 to make my car reliable. At ~170 hp to add that expense and complexity will be discouraging. If I decide to go 200+ hp then that addition will be expected and part of the plan.
I don't know for sure why the bearings failed. Whether it was oil only or if other balance/ timing/ fuel contributors are responsible I can't say. I only know that careful reassembly and the addition of monitoring and either eliminating the oil cooler or adding a tstat are the best possibility for success.
BTW I had not thought of the oil cooler as being a problem so thank you all for pointing that out to me.
It will be very disappointing if it becomes necessary to add a MS3 to make my car reliable. At ~170 hp to add that expense and complexity will be discouraging. If I decide to go 200+ hp then that addition will be expected and part of the plan.
#40
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Because you touch yourself at night?
Has nothing to do with a supercharger or a turbo. Like he said, we knew you were running SOMETHING because the stock ECU cannot take 100+kpa without shitting the bed, but you chose not to give us that detail. We cannot be expected to know the details of every kit on the planet. BRP has been out of business for like a decade, we can't even go to their website and look **** up. We can't help you if you are not going to answer our questions.
One more time:
Or is it going to take another 30 posts to get this information out of you like it did about the ECU/powercard?
One more time:
Or is it going to take another 30 posts to get this information out of you like it did about the ECU/powercard?