Stripping a bottom end for rebuild
05-20-2018, 06:39 PM
#1
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Stripping a bottom end for rebuild
Gents,
I'm pulling apart the original engine that came in my '99 to prep it for a rebuild. I've never done a Miata engine before. Are there any things to watch out for associated with the stuff on the intake side of the block, such as oil cooler/warmer/filter seat thingy or the two sensors near it?
Thanks much,
I'm pulling apart the original engine that came in my '99 to prep it for a rebuild. I've never done a Miata engine before. Are there any things to watch out for associated with the stuff on the intake side of the block, such as oil cooler/warmer/filter seat thingy or the two sensors near it?
Thanks much,
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05-20-2018, 10:49 PM
#2
If you don’t know what your sensors are then that’s a good indicator that you have a bit more research to do on your engine.
From my experience do your research and watch plenty of videos of people rebuilding these engines. I recommend Greg from “The car passion channel”. He’s an amazing lad who has built an amazing vvt engine.
If boost is in your future consider buying quality rods, pistons and a harmonic damper that can handle such abuse. Get some quality main bolts and head bolts.
Check your specs. Check your specifications of your crankshaft, block, valves, etc. if you don’t have the time nor money run it as is. I don’t recommend this because if something is out of spec you’ll be paying a lot more than just machine work in your near future.
Also, torque lives matter. Get a rench and can handle low inch pounds. Don’t mix up in-lbs and ft-lbs.
From my experience do your research and watch plenty of videos of people rebuilding these engines. I recommend Greg from “The car passion channel”. He’s an amazing lad who has built an amazing vvt engine.
If boost is in your future consider buying quality rods, pistons and a harmonic damper that can handle such abuse. Get some quality main bolts and head bolts.
Check your specs. Check your specifications of your crankshaft, block, valves, etc. if you don’t have the time nor money run it as is. I don’t recommend this because if something is out of spec you’ll be paying a lot more than just machine work in your near future.
Also, torque lives matter. Get a rench and can handle low inch pounds. Don’t mix up in-lbs and ft-lbs.
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05-21-2018, 06:33 AM
#3
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All I wanted to know is if there are any gotchas when removing those three items from the intake side of the block. Although I've done a handful of clutches, timing belts, etc., and I even do my own alignments, I have never removed/replaced any of those three things before. Anyone else?
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05-21-2018, 08:53 AM
#4
All I wanted to know is if there are any gotchas when removing those three items from the intake side of the block. Although I've done a handful of clutches, timing belts, etc., and I even do my own alignments, I have never removed/replaced any of those three things before. Anyone else?
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05-21-2018, 09:26 AM
#5
No surprises taking the engine apart. I can take a complete engine down to individual components in a couple hours going slow using basic craftsman wrench/socket set and a harbor freight electric impact (damper bolt on crank). Take pics. Some bolts are longer/shorter on same part. For instance, rear main seal housing...4 bolts, 2 are short 2 are long. Motor mounts and oil pump also have some different bolt lengths.
For the rods use an an impact as you won’t be reusing them and it will make it go faster. Make sure to immediately oil the crankshaft and cams and then put them in a climate controlled environment, wrapped up so they don’t rust. Take care when freeing rods from crank and pushing pistons out of the bore so you don’t scratch the crank and cylinder walls. The crank will need to be cleaned via the oil holes. You will need a few cans of brake cleaner for this. Stick the straw into the holes and blastvthe **** out of them. On the front and back of your block are two brass plugs. They will need to be removed prior to cleaning the block. This will allow proper cleaning of oil pathways. You will need to replace them with new OEM pieces (cheap). I made a write up on here about them. Oil plug writeup
The above should get you through the dissassembly process and get you prepped for cleaning. The shop can remove the freeze plugs for you. You can do it at home but it’s a pain and is like $20 at shop to knock them out. Hope this helps. Goodluck.
For the rods use an an impact as you won’t be reusing them and it will make it go faster. Make sure to immediately oil the crankshaft and cams and then put them in a climate controlled environment, wrapped up so they don’t rust. Take care when freeing rods from crank and pushing pistons out of the bore so you don’t scratch the crank and cylinder walls. The crank will need to be cleaned via the oil holes. You will need a few cans of brake cleaner for this. Stick the straw into the holes and blastvthe **** out of them. On the front and back of your block are two brass plugs. They will need to be removed prior to cleaning the block. This will allow proper cleaning of oil pathways. You will need to replace them with new OEM pieces (cheap). I made a write up on here about them. Oil plug writeup
The above should get you through the dissassembly process and get you prepped for cleaning. The shop can remove the freeze plugs for you. You can do it at home but it’s a pain and is like $20 at shop to knock them out. Hope this helps. Goodluck.
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05-21-2018, 03:58 PM
#6
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I found it to be pretty easy. I just kept everything in bags with sharpie notes as I took them off.
I had my machinist clean the block, replace the freeze plugs, bore/hone the cylinders and align hone the mains so I can't give any advice about how to do those things except "don't do them yourself".
The main things I remember being annoying later were:
I had my machinist clean the block, replace the freeze plugs, bore/hone the cylinders and align hone the mains so I can't give any advice about how to do those things except "don't do them yourself".
The main things I remember being annoying later were:
- Didn't unhook the transmission stuff correctly and I ended up breaking the reverse and speedo cable. Had to crawl under and fix it with my fingertips later.
- When putting it all back in, put the car up on two jackstands (no more) and have someone make sure the rear stays planted or you'll keep see-sawing the chassis trying to line up the motor mounts.
- Use rtv on the intake to avoid vacuum leaks
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05-22-2018, 12:32 PM
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It only comes off one way. The bottom of the pump is what the pan seals against. That's why pump maintenance is such a pain in the ***. You have to drop the subframe to free the pan first.
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