Stuck at a certain rpm
05-19-2018, 10:43 AM
#42
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Ok i checked my cylinder with an endoscope...cylinder 1 have a lot of fresh black deposits (overly rich conditions...). I m pretty sure my uncountrollable iddle and blockage at low rews problems was coming from there condition was comming from that... it seems that the wire connector of the cylinder 1 was slipping in his rubber anchage and not gerting the bottom of the coil.
now the engine dont even start, it crancks for a few time until it make a clonk and stop cranking (cylinder 1 is now full of fuel). When i wait for the fuel in cylinder 1 to evaporate it will crank again untill full again...i know the cylinders are pairing so it could not really be coil or other "upper" ignition problem (and the plugs are passing the spark test on cylinder one). Plugs and wires are also oem brand new...
what could make cylinder one not to fonction if there is fuel + spark?. It could be i think a stupidly fast feeding injectors (too rich to even ignite) but i swapped them without a change. I suppose a lost of compression could be involved i dont know if a certain amount of compression is needed for the ignition or if the fuel will still ignite enough to not permite a total flooding of the combustion chamber? What other could cause this fuel not to ignite (timing?but is this possible to see other cylinders to perfectly combust?).
at this point for me the car have hydrolocked because of the fuel going up and cant be ignite because of the bad cylinder one contact on the plug wire (at the coil). I think it just stopped the engine but i didnt bend anything (the piston will not move freely and without suspect noises isnt it??)
now the engine dont even start, it crancks for a few time until it make a clonk and stop cranking (cylinder 1 is now full of fuel). When i wait for the fuel in cylinder 1 to evaporate it will crank again untill full again...i know the cylinders are pairing so it could not really be coil or other "upper" ignition problem (and the plugs are passing the spark test on cylinder one). Plugs and wires are also oem brand new...
what could make cylinder one not to fonction if there is fuel + spark?. It could be i think a stupidly fast feeding injectors (too rich to even ignite) but i swapped them without a change. I suppose a lost of compression could be involved i dont know if a certain amount of compression is needed for the ignition or if the fuel will still ignite enough to not permite a total flooding of the combustion chamber? What other could cause this fuel not to ignite (timing?but is this possible to see other cylinders to perfectly combust?).
at this point for me the car have hydrolocked because of the fuel going up and cant be ignite because of the bad cylinder one contact on the plug wire (at the coil). I think it just stopped the engine but i didnt bend anything (the piston will not move freely and without suspect noises isnt it??)
Last edited by Lol256; 05-19-2018 at 11:34 AM.
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05-19-2018, 01:21 PM
#44
Ok i checked my cylinder with an endoscope...cylinder 1 have a lot of fresh black deposits (overly rich conditions...). I m pretty sure my uncountrollable iddle and blockage at low rews problems was coming from there condition was comming from that... it seems that the wire connector of the cylinder 1 was slipping in his rubber anchage and not gerting the bottom of the coil.
now the engine dont even start, it crancks for a few time until it make a clonk and stop cranking (cylinder 1 is now full of fuel). When i wait for the fuel in cylinder 1 to evaporate it will crank again untill full again...i know the cylinders are pairing so it could not really be coil or other "upper" ignition problem (and the plugs are passing the spark test on cylinder one). Plugs and wires are also oem brand new...
what could make cylinder one not to fonction if there is fuel + spark?. It could be i think a stupidly fast feeding injectors (too rich to even ignite) but i swapped them without a change. I suppose a lost of compression could be involved i dont know if a certain amount of compression is needed for the ignition or if the fuel will still ignite enough to not permite a total flooding of the combustion chamber? What other could cause this fuel not to ignite (timing?but is this possible to see other cylinders to perfectly combust?).
at this point for me the car have hydrolocked because of the fuel going up and cant be ignite because of the bad cylinder one contact on the plug wire (at the coil). I think it just stopped the engine but i didnt bend anything (the piston will not move freely and without suspect noises isnt it??)
now the engine dont even start, it crancks for a few time until it make a clonk and stop cranking (cylinder 1 is now full of fuel). When i wait for the fuel in cylinder 1 to evaporate it will crank again untill full again...i know the cylinders are pairing so it could not really be coil or other "upper" ignition problem (and the plugs are passing the spark test on cylinder one). Plugs and wires are also oem brand new...
what could make cylinder one not to fonction if there is fuel + spark?. It could be i think a stupidly fast feeding injectors (too rich to even ignite) but i swapped them without a change. I suppose a lost of compression could be involved i dont know if a certain amount of compression is needed for the ignition or if the fuel will still ignite enough to not permite a total flooding of the combustion chamber? What other could cause this fuel not to ignite (timing?but is this possible to see other cylinders to perfectly combust?).
at this point for me the car have hydrolocked because of the fuel going up and cant be ignite because of the bad cylinder one contact on the plug wire (at the coil). I think it just stopped the engine but i didnt bend anything (the piston will not move freely and without suspect noises isnt it??)
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05-19-2018, 02:27 PM
#45
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Never destroyed one before...i tried to figure out problems nothing more...for me i cant see any of your remarks that could have avoid/warn me about an eventual hydrolock and/or or put me in the way of this totally non burn fuel (and it seems there pretty obvious that my piggyback is out of cause because two cylinder would be impacted)...
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05-19-2018, 03:02 PM
#47
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thx for the comment.
that was i was thinking but i swapped it without change (i even fitted back the stock injectors for the test). I think the misconnected plug wire could have this effect too but why now that ive reconnected it i could not burn this fuel anymore ? Bend rods ?or valve (as supposed by one of you)?
that was i was thinking but i swapped it without change (i even fitted back the stock injectors for the test). I think the misconnected plug wire could have this effect too but why now that ive reconnected it i could not burn this fuel anymore ? Bend rods ?or valve (as supposed by one of you)?
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08-04-2018, 04:27 AM
#49
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Hi,
i payed a famous car swapper (did the third of the eurodrift series cars an was turboing ae86 25 years ago) to check the car and he couldn t find anything with a quick check, without disasembling the engine. He told me to change the maf that was for him the fault. I bought a new one and it changed nothing.
I tryied to remove the wastegate and get the "system" without.... Any change there too.
I also tried the compression of each cylinder and i have enough of it (8-9bar on each cylinder).
i just need to know what i could check now. How can i now try some other diagnognostics? What are the other possible fails i should looking for, thinking to my symptoms (car smoking (fuel odor) and stalling few seconds after starting (if starting)). Do you think it could be the the advance had a sleeping and is not correct anymore? Do you think the head valves could be sticked or bended??
injectors, plugs, plug wire, fuel filter, maf are new (changed for troubleshooting this problem). Spark is ok...
i m now for month without a car and i m urged by all persons i know to buy a new car. I would not and will spend my next years walking and thinking about how to figure out this problem... true love for my little (sick) baby.
thank you for your help (for my number 1 supporter, yes my tires are inflated. Dont need any reminding)
i payed a famous car swapper (did the third of the eurodrift series cars an was turboing ae86 25 years ago) to check the car and he couldn t find anything with a quick check, without disasembling the engine. He told me to change the maf that was for him the fault. I bought a new one and it changed nothing.
I tryied to remove the wastegate and get the "system" without.... Any change there too.
I also tried the compression of each cylinder and i have enough of it (8-9bar on each cylinder).
i just need to know what i could check now. How can i now try some other diagnognostics? What are the other possible fails i should looking for, thinking to my symptoms (car smoking (fuel odor) and stalling few seconds after starting (if starting)). Do you think it could be the the advance had a sleeping and is not correct anymore? Do you think the head valves could be sticked or bended??
injectors, plugs, plug wire, fuel filter, maf are new (changed for troubleshooting this problem). Spark is ok...
i m now for month without a car and i m urged by all persons i know to buy a new car. I would not and will spend my next years walking and thinking about how to figure out this problem... true love for my little (sick) baby.
thank you for your help (for my number 1 supporter, yes my tires are inflated. Dont need any reminding)
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08-04-2018, 04:36 AM
#50
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Last thing the mecanic that came said, as every person that saw it to help me (approx 10) that the engine was "turning" freely and without any suspect sound when turned by the starter...
injector leak or (direct) fault is to exclude (tryied 2 set of injectors + all seals brand new). I ll try to check with a multimeter the voltage comming there..
injector leak or (direct) fault is to exclude (tryied 2 set of injectors + all seals brand new). I ll try to check with a multimeter the voltage comming there..
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