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Old 03-31-2014, 10:27 AM   #41
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Are you referring to the vacuum diaphragm part attached to the turbo? or the N75 (or whatever the new part is called) solenoid that pwms the vacuum to the turbo?

The solenoid in all of the TDI's I have worked on is attached to the firewall on the transmission side of the engine, I really don't think it is exposed to a ton of heat. obviously the diaphragm needs to be on the turbo to do its job.

Though it would not surprise me if a car that wrecked 3 cams in 150K miles has electronics on it that heat fail when you breathe on them.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:21 PM   #42
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I think that I got the link working now
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Old 05-02-2014, 12:03 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I buy mine from aircraft spruce because I want real aeroquip fire sleeve, but any industrial or aeronautic aeroquip dealer should sell it.
I see that your using the red hose which has a direct fire durability but a constant temp of 450 degrees.

I don't want a red hose but would their black silicone hose do the same trick? The only thing is that the black silicone hose is 5/8 of an inch and the oem radiator hose is safely to say from outside wall to outside wall 1". So it wouldn't necessarily fit.

On the red hose did you get the 1" inch sleeve?

Here are the links

AEROQUIP FIRE SLEEVES from Aircraft Spruce

BLACK SILICONE FIRE SLEEVE from Aircraft Spruce

I then checked out this sleeve which is the same price as 6' of the red sleeve hoses and thought this would be a cleaner tighter fit with velcro

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ssSleeves1.php

Last edited by BlackBandit; 05-02-2014 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:36 AM   #44
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manifold wraps and blankets are evil. When there is oil leakage, it will cause fire. I have been though it twice. 2 times stupid.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:16 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by nismo502 View Post
manifold wraps and blankets are evil. When there is oil leakage, it will cause fire. I have been though it twice. 2 times stupid.
This is my concern with wraps, with the oil spraying in my engine bay this weekend I worry that things could have been worse if I had wrap there to absorb the oil and heat it to ignition.

What do you guys think about products like this: Exhaust Heat Shield | Heatshield Products

Seems to be all non-flammable material and would wrap easily on the exhaust. I would like to find something non-flammable like this so I can avoid heating my drive train as I run my exhaust so close to both the trans and diff. Anyone have a link to stuff that they use?
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:26 PM   #46
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I use these. Easy to fabricate.
ACL Race Series Heat Shield Material
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:01 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo502 View Post
I use these. Easy to fabricate.
ACL Race Series Heat Shield Material
That is what I used on my build, ( photo my turbo a couple of posts ago) stitched it together with safety wire but one could make some tooling to press mold it like the photo on your link.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:07 PM   #48
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Whoa! That **** is rad.

I need some.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:31 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo502 View Post
I use these. Easy to fabricate.
ACL Race Series Heat Shield Material
OEMs use something similar in some cars. Junkyards {cough, cough} are a good place to look. Trim to fit.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:47 PM   #50
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I was wrong. I was wrong. I was wrong. And I'm not afraid to admit it.

I was discussing blankets with my buddy Kirk at Boost Lab and he said that every turbo that he has every rebuilt that had a blanket (not a heat shield, but a real blanket) has had the hot side journal bearing blackened because the heat retention is too much for the oil not to cook. The oil cooks and blackens in the hot side journal bearing even in the presence of water cooled center housings.

Kirk indicated that most of them he has seen are because the oil seal fails on the turbine side due to being too hot to retain their spring tension. The seal just looses its tempering. He ends up seeing them because the owner notices the oil smoke. His experience with this problem numbers in the dozens.

So there you go. I was wrong about the turbos being designed to handle all the heat. There is apparently a lower limit to what they can take than I thought. I'm going to need a different underhood heat management plan now.

Did I make it clear that I was wrong? I was wrong.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:51 PM   #51
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So... blankets bad? Thermal coating good?
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:52 PM   #52
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You know, when you're wrong, you should admit it. Just sayin'.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:52 PM   #53
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Are these track turbo's we're talking about or street turbo's?
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:11 PM   #54
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Yeah, is my blanket now a TD04 destroyer? D:
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:22 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
So... blankets bad? Thermal coating good?
I was actually told by a local BW master distributor that over a long period of time ceramic coating are also bad for the turbine housing because the coating prevents the housing from expanding properly from the heat. He did state that the degradation takes a while but that he has seen it time and time again with turbos that see a lot of use over a long life.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:23 PM   #56
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I guess the old school liscense plate / custom heatshield is still the safest option.
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:26 PM   #57
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I just got these in to help with the temp but if a turbo is going to blow a seal because of a blanket, it's an inevitable piece of machinery that eventually need rebuilding just like a motor. We're all talking here like the turbocharger will last a lifetime.


20140527_151537 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

I haven't purchased ptp lava blanket but it will happen soon enough.

And I second 18psi question. Street or track turbos
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:29 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_G View Post
I was actually told by a local BW master distributor that over a long period of time ceramic coating are also bad for the turbine housing because the coating prevents the housing from expanding properly from the heat. He did state that the degradation takes a while but that he has seen it time and time again with turbos that see a lot of use over a long life.
Lol, most ceramic coatings that people deal with expand right with the metal, or just crack up. The swain coating still expands with heat, it has to, or it would crack as the metal expands with heat. Check out the force due to heat expansion in metals, its enough to shear bolts, its sure as **** going to crack a 0.050 thick layer of ceramic.
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:44 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBandit View Post
And I second 18psi question. Street or track turbos
Kirk at Boost Lab was talking about all of the ones he gets in for a rebuild in general terms. Of the ones he gets in to be rebuilt, the ones that use a blanket all have blackened hot side journal bearings and many have leaky hotside seals due to being overheated. So the answer is eventually they will all wear out but there is an obvious difference between blanket and no blanket. This is not an empirical study of how long it takes to get there but rather anecdotal evidence from an outfit that rebuilds dozens of turbos a week for performance, OEM, and industrial applications.

I can say that my turbo is needing bearings already after only two track weekends since I built my engine and started running more boost. But my turbine housing was still glowing red after a full cool down lap and the time it took to get unharnessed and open the hood. I have no idea how brightly it was glowing when I was actually on track. Obviously, less boost would mean less heat and more life out of the components. You all may do as you like. As for me and my house, we will use no blanket.
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Old 06-01-2014, 03:14 AM   #60
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From the sound of it turbo blankets just add to the long list of trade offs for power vs longevity. Thats nothing new. So theres got to be a happy medium somewhere in there.
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