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Lesson learned. If it sounds too good to be true, it almost certainly is.
Fortunately I've got great friends, and with blackdbl9NB's help the car now has a new temporary home while we finish it.
I was going to school in Rapid City during the October 2013 blizzard, that was an experience I will never forget. Glad I don't have to deal with that anymore. Yes, SD winters suck.
Got the motor back up on a stand today.
Pulling the crank was a massive PITA. It was seized up on there hard and required a lot of lube and patience to pull.
VTC Cam gear swapped out. The bolt on this one wasn't quite as bad but was still on there pretty good. Very straight forward to swap on. One bolt, swap on and off. Even I could figure that one out.
Spent about an hour pissing around trying to get that little piece out so we could get that bolt in.
But we got it.
Unfortunately this is where we ran into a bit of an issue. I had all the components for the oil pump swap except it would seem the replacement wind-age tray.
Now to be fair, I was forced to move my car mid-swap, and I'm in a new garage so it's entirely possible something got left behind, but for the life of me I don't remember seeing the piece in the kit, an in one of the very first photos posted where I had all the parts together, I don't see it.
I've contacted KMiata and I'm sure we'll figure it out, I'm not too worried about it.
That oil pan is a proper work of art.
More oil-****.
Guess which dumbass forgot to drain the old oilpan before flipping the motor.... -_-
Can you tell I've never done this before.
Feels very good to make progress on this again. Can't wait to get the motor bolted back together.
While we figure out the windage tray situation, I'll be moving onto fuel, and the diff swap.
My only suggestion would be putting the paper stickers not in the oil pan, but it wasn't anything some brake cleaner didn't quickly fix. Loose fitting the TracTuff RBC/RBB Water Bypass Adapter. Fiddled with the oil pump/adapter for a while. Like a moron I put them together dry, and they just would not move like I thought they should.
Took everything apart, threw some motor oil in there, and things started to move like it seemed like they should. Picked up the new windage tray, and got the new oil pump bolted up and torqued down. Starting to come back together. Timed the motor, re-installed the new chain tensioner, and bolted the timing chain back up following the instructions on the following video on their youtube channel.
Last night was another successful night.
Don't really have much to add picture wise, but the bay and transmission was cleaned, car was put up on jacks, wheels are off, and we started the major work on the car.
Things move pretty quickly when you have 3 extremely knowledgeable people helping you pull things apart.
Got the rear subframe dropped, PPF and diff removed so the diff can be swapped for a Torsen unit I purchased.
Getting ready to drain and drop (the almost full) gas tank so we can start looking at removing the old lines.
Getting ready to install the new line that runs down the driver side of the trans tunnel installed.
Pulled the fuel pump and stripped the **** out of that little shitty Phillips screw that holds the base of the pump. Not entirely sure what to do about that.
Purchased:
Tie rod ends
Rear axles
Re-manufactured K24a2 alternator
Re-manufactured K24a2 starter
Found that more parts are missing since I swapped garages. Ugh. Missing half the clutch.
I should also mention that I reached out to David at Kmiata, and requested he check on his end to see if there may have been a mix up with the missing windage tray. He verified that it should have gone out, but if I thought it wasn't delivered with the kit he would gladly replace the unit.
Considering the hasty move from garage to garage, there's no way I can put the missing part on David, so I pony'd up the 30 bucks, called it a cheap lesson and got myself another one. Top service from David as per the usual.
No word from Wire-worx on the wiring harness, but I'm assuming that should be getting shipped out fairly soon.
I'll break out all the costs at the end, but I've now broken well into the 11k barrier on the swap. However, considering I'm doing so much general maintenance that NEEDED to be done, I'm not in the least bit upset about how much I've spent.
Tie Rod ends: 13.38 x2 = $26.76
k24a2 Starter motor: $141.79
k24a2 Alternator $71.89
Shipping 14.00
Axles 63.00 x2 = $126
Total: $378.44
Last edited by dickamusmaxamus; 04-06-2018 at 11:42 AM.
Plugging away at what I can while I wait for parts. Starting on the more interesting piece of this build, which involves swapping the now single fuel line to the driver side frame rail.
In case you haven't noticed, the intake/exhaust manifolds are flipped on the K series motor, which leaves you with your fuel lines feeding the exhaust manifold side of the car.
Occasionally what I've seen for fuel delivery involves a -6AN fuel fitting on the stock line in it's stock location, and running a stainless steel line all the way around the back of the firewall, to the regulator, then to the rail.
This option sketches me right the **** out, because if the fitting on the stock fuel line fails you're spraying fuel directly on the exhaust manifold. The following pic of an Ecotech swap shows some of the stuff I've seen.
In the interest of not turning my new toy into a pile of ash, we pulled all the fuel lines, dropped the tank, and started pondering the options.
Effectively what we're going to try and accomplish is moving the entire fuel delivery system over to the driver side.
I didn't like the idea of bending the fuel line over the transmission tunnel, and I didn't like the idea of keeping the stock fuel filter location and running the fuel line up over the diff. In the event that drivetrain were to fail, I don't want the fuel line getting smoked by a driveshaft and potentially starting a fire.
Maybe I'm over thinking this portion of the swap, but that's what we're going to shoot for.
Couple of other things happened yesterday too.
I pulled the nasty *** clutch hydrolics that had likely never been changed and swapped in some shiny new ones.
Got some reflection tape installed on the firewall. Because I'll be running interiorless for the rest of the summer while I figure out how to make my own carpeting, I figured it was a cheap way to keep interior temps down.
Also.... I mean...... look at it.....
Installed the fuel regulator.
And finally, appropriated some Subaru culture. *rips vape*
Just ordered all the fittings and fuel line for the -6AN delivery. Does anybody know how to get a -6AN fitting on the outlet of the tank? Is there an adapter of some sort, or am I looking at welding a fitting on the end of the tank?
03-14-2018, 10:05 AM
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