EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I posted it in my build thread but forgot to mention here: the leaky STs I replaced with the ones from 949 seem to be holding up well. I'll let you all know how they do after the back-to-back trackday weekend at M@MRLS next weekend.

Though I'm not sure how to determine if its going to be my EFR or the new valve stem seals that are leaking, maybe @aidandj can advise

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Too soon...

ByteVenom

???

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Re: Aidan

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Stem seals made it through the one session I ran on Saturday, and then all day Sunday at MRLS with nary a wisp of smoke. I are happy camper

For those following along at home...

These seals: Supermiata Valve Seal Miata

This valve spring compressor tool:
These valve stem pliers:
This hammer: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-12-l...mer-67816.html

Then add to your list a green Starbucks drinking straw (grande iced black tea, no sweet, easy ice) about 3' of cotton or nylon rope, some razor blades, a valve cover gasket, a quality in/lb torque wrench, some engine assembly lube, a tube of RTV, and a copy of the valvetrain section of the FSM appropriate to your engine and model year and you should be good to go.

Taking the valvetrain apart is not exactly for the faint of heart, and certainly not something I would recommend without proper documentation. If you don't have the cams in the correct position when you tighten/loosen the caps, you can damage the bearing surfaces or bend the cams. That **** is game over, so get the FSM and follow the damn instructions. This is definitely in the reach of the homegamer if they take their time, do the reading, ask questions and keep organized. If you've done a timing belt, you can (probably) do valve stem seals.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

G do you have Subs, and does that make a difference at all to the process?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

No and I'm going to guess no. Looking at the SUB hardware I'd imagine its the same process with the same warnings: keep track of the cam caps (both location and orientation) and SUBs and shims and make sure they call go back exactly where they came from. As the British love to say, assembly is the reverse of disassembly. The key is organization, keep track of the parts and you should be fine.

Also, for the love of $DEITY, BLOCK OFF THE OIL DRAINS IN YOUR HEAD!



This is NOT considered excessive. If you drop a keeper down the oil drain, the consequences could be quite dire.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

That picture is mine. And it is like that because I had just spent 4 hours fishing a valve keeper out of the oil pan.

mzmanny

Anyone with a TSE built motor having issues with valve stem seals? From what I understand ST seals are the ones that go in TSE motors. I got one being built, hopefully it's not plagued with leaky seals.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

He switched to felpros

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

That would be a question for TSE/@Savington. Where I you and this was the kind of thing that was keeping me awake at night (because this IS the kind of thing that would keep me awake at night) I'd pick up the phone and give them a call. I'm sure they would be happy to explain what they are using.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

He posted in this thread.

mzmanny

I was going to say I read a thread about TSE motors getting ST seals, apparently it was this one I'm not sure if anyone with a TSE motor has noticed any sort of issue since he last mentioned using ST seals. Either ST has shoddy QC or a lot of people are botching the install.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

He posted in another thread (and told me in person last weekend) that he bought approx 1million felpro seals on Rock Auto when they were pennies.

​​​​​But if you are buying motor from him, call and ask if you want to be sure.

krpt5490

You mentioned the earlier photo was yours - looks like you did not pull the full timing belt out is that correct? I'm hoping to do valve seals soon but just did my belt and pump last year, would rather keep the bottom half of as-is while doing seals.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

you can kind of keep it as-is. but usually you will have to reset timing and stuff because the belt wont stay in place without the cam gears.

krpt5490

Definitely, makes sense. Seems like there's a bit to keeping the cam seals and other internal pieces aligned as well which is beyond my experience as a timing belt is the furthest I've gone, any recommended resources? Thank you

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

You may be able to keep things right if you mark the timing gears and belt to keep those aligned. Take a picture to see the orientation of the cams as well and everything to double check.

flier129

iTrader: (7)

I used the same tools Gordon mentions above and sourced some Felpro valve stem seals. The Lisle 36050 is pretty damn handy and easier to use than I initially thought. I was fortunate(or unfortunate given the situation?) enough to do this with the head pulled.

Taking a hammer to your head is quite.....nerve racking. I had to get a buddy of mine to do the first one cause I was skurt. I tried both the hammer and compressing "techniques" with the tool. I found it easiest to hammer it to get the keepers off and then compress(a bunch) to "clip" them back in. This is a given, but worth saying.... you need to do this on a sturdy bench. I attempted to press the first one in on a typical fold-out table, it wasn't happy about it. I ended up relocating to the floor with a bunch of cardboard, towels, and paper-towels under the head.

Here's to hoping my valve stem swap was a success. I'll know sometime next weekend.

arsprod

I was all set to do this job and realized NB's have shim over bucket lifters which I assumed had to be re-shimmed. You're saying you can just put the same shims back in?