What does it really cost to rebuild the block?
 

Hurts to ask, but, I'd love to hear from those who've done it (I know there's a ton here).

I bought a 1.6 with built head, and it burns oil. Some 1qt per 1k mi.
Yep. Lots. Builder says the shop checked the cylinders, found them to be fine, and he then slapped stock pistons with 1mm larger rings.

Everyone I showed the car to (SpecMiata builder, engine builder) tells me it's the rings. SpecMiata guy ran the leakdown, and confirmed it.

So, I've got a built head with a lousy block, and a custom turbo (built upon GReddy), and I'm afraid that if I install the turbo, I'll piss oil.

Question is, what does it really cost to rebuild the block?

MazdaSpeed doesn't sell just the block, or else I'd be on it like stink on shit.
So, my choices are:
either get a crate from MS, and swap heads (the one I have is ported, polished, enlarged intake & exhaust, lowered compression, & bunch of other things that I can't remember)
find a used block, rebuild it (and, according to my SpecMiata builder, MS (he only deals with Mazda) doesn't make reasonably priced larger pistons, if it comes to having to bore it out).

So, what is the least expensive? Buy a crate motor, or rebuild (bore, rings, pistons, enchilada).

Btw, if I sound like a tool, that's because when it comes to engine internals, I've never done anything more than a timing belt or VCG.

:noob:

got pretty much the same question here. I burn quite a lot of oil too. Does your car blow black smoke? mine does not. So where does the oil go?

pistons - 550ish
rods - 400ish
bearings - $50ish ebay acl special
machine work - 250+
cometic hg - 100
gasket set - 125ish or something
assembly - free if you can do it yourself, 250+ otherwise
other shit im forgetting - $100+

so like $1.5k with parts and shit to do it right. The machine work and assembly with be your biggest variable.

Pistons and rods - $825
Timing belt, water pump, head gasket, other gaskets - $200
Thrust and main bearings - $100
Machine work - $100 to $250 for an .040 bore and hone. Shop around.
Assembly - free to $200

I got discounts on a few things, deals on a few things, and I am hoping to bring the end total in just a hair under $1200.

fucking doublepost motherfucker

What about the belfab kits that some have installed successfully on here?
1600 it looks like.
everything else included I figure you can do it for 1800ish?

Of course that price can go down drastically if you do it the same way as savington and shop around/find deals

So, seems like getting a short block from Mazda (there's a discussion on Spec forum) would be almost cheaper, that is, if MS sells a short block.

Thanks very much for the replies, guys.

My car blows smoke upon startup, and, everytime I "step" on the gas. Pulling away from the stop light the other day, I "gently" floored it, and saw a nice blue cloud right behind me.
Oil gets burned in the cylinders, and goes right out the friggin' tailpipe.

The biggest load about my car is that while the compression numbers are good, the leakdown #'s are for shit.
And, it seems like I'm not the only one...

Nobody mentioned replacing the oil pump.
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The big difference is that the prices being listed here are for forged internals and not the weaker cast Mazda internals. Big difference.

+1!!!
Taking the engine apart? Do yourself a favor and replace the oil pump. Or you'll probably be yanking it back out pretty soon, ask me (or ZX-Tex) how I know.

:doh:

Are the forged internals a must for 250whp? (this is with a well-sorted head)

Are you back up and running yet?
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My engine build

Complete engine gasket set: $135.34
Eagle connecting rods: $350.53
Wiseco pistons: $468.73
ARP main studs: $106.95
ARP head studs: $133.92
Cometic head gasket: $99.65
Water pump + timing belt kit: $70.00
Oil pump: $65.00
Bearings: $ 100.00
Machine shop labor: $200.00
Assembly labor: $300.00

Total: $2030.12

My true cost was a few hundred more because I needed a new crank shaft a replacement head and because of a few dumb decisions I made. Also be sure to have a couple hundred extra for other things that may come up.
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Just got the engine back Monday with a new OEM oil pump and it all should be installed into the car and running on Friday. Hopefully I log more than 14.5 miles this time. :)

You are right on the edge of engine death cliff at 250 rwhp IMO. Others will disagree.

A big +1 on replacing the oil pump.

I'll keep my fingers crossed lol.
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A must? No.

Cheap insurance to avoid having to repeat the process in 6 month? Yes.

If nothing else, replace the rods with stouter pieces. Stock rods are not long for this world at 250+...

- L

Sounds about right. I forgot about the studs, oil pump, water pump. I tried to give an accurate estimate from my memory of the 1.6 I built that brgracer now owns. The total for that 1.6 build ended up being over 5k all said and done. But its gonna be one hell of a monster.

why not put a 1.8 in it?