wackbards

iTrader: (2)

I'm getting close to first start on my VVT swap into a NA6 controlled with a MSPNP pro. I'm loading my tune & calibrating sensors. I'm noticing my VVT oil control valve solenoid buzzing like crazy with just the key in the on position, which seems bad. I don't think the solenoid should be on at all (thought I shut it down via the TS settings?). Is my wiring thinking all wrong? I thought that the solenoid was a basic PWM with ground controlled by the ECU. Here's how I wired it:

I have pulled the +12V from the unused light blue wire on the OE 1.6 ignitor (#3). I attached the gnd to the MS at pin "P" (high current 1) of the auxiliary connector, which is identified in the documentation as being dedicated to VVT. Is this all wrong?

hector

I think your wiring is good. Check the settings in programmable outputs maybe? I'm with you that if you don't have an output set in TS it shouldn't buzz but that's a guess on my part.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

If it's anything like MS3x units, putting it on the HC1 output could means it's using the same Freq of your idle valve, which would cause it to buzz more than likely. would have to ask diyautotune if that could be the case here -- considering IIRC we set the Hz to 300 for the VVT and 500Hz for the idle valve.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

I do need to do some more digging on the output freq issue as it applies to the PNP pro. Having said that, I thought setting the VVT output to "off" would negate any pwm freq concern.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

For reference. I will need to spend some time tonight with the MM to make sure I did't bork the wiring.

IAC: 511Hz through factory loom connector 4 pin 3L (IAC). TS output set to PWM/idle out 1
VVT: 383Hz through aux connector pin P (HC1), TS output set to off (haven't calibrated it yet)
VICS: aux connector pin Z (INJ E), TS set to injector out E
EBCS (bought from DIY): slow/39Hz through aux connector pin R (HC2), TS set to off (WG wired open)

Thread about high freq PWM groups: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...4/#post1035614
PNPPro pinout (bottom of page): MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Resolved. Turns out, it was just me being a dumbass. It was the IAC buzzing so loud I thought it was the OCV. I put the stethoscope on the OCV & it buzzed, so it must be that, right? Right? That's what low blood sugar will do to ya.

Thanks for the help

curly

iTrader: (25)

Dammit, i was just about to tell you to make sure it's the VVT and not the idle valve.

Just set it to "run valve before start" to OFF.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I had the same buzzing issue with the idle valve. I think it was DNMakison that suggested turning that to 'off' before startup. It happened pretty often, but I thought it was the fuel pump in my case (no vvt in my NB1).

So Brain and I did some troubleshooting that was pretty roundabout till we realized what it was... sorry again brain!

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

thanks guys. If you get bored, I'm trying to figure out my car-no-start situation on my build thread. I'm even worse at tuning than I am at wrenching & wiring, so this will be painful. The first thing I'm noticing is that my RPM's during cranking never exceed 180 RPM, which seems like it's about half of what I'm used to seeing, even though the motor sounds normal speed during cranking. Here we go down the rabbit hole...

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...d-88055/page7/

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

180rpm sounds correct for the starter.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Stop focusing on the cranking RPM, as long as it's continuing to crank it should start.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Fair enough. I need to spend some time with spark & fuel test modes tonight.