We've been asked about the booster delete setup on our NB over and over again. After testing multiple masters and bias configurations we've put together a kit for those of you looking to clean up your engine bay or maybe a more linear brake modulation.

As this manual brake setup does not rely on vacuum, we've noticed a more consistent pedal feel on the track - keep in mind, we weren't fixing anything, the previously boosted brake configuration never gave us any real problems. I will say that after tweaking I prefer the manual setup.

Pedal feel? I don't think this will surprise anyone, it takes more effort to apply the brakes. How hard can you brake with this setup? As a test, we ran 245 re-11's and locked up all four wheels with a starting speed of 40mph.

The kit includes the components to get you started - you'll need to pick up 3/16" brake line from your local auto parts store (or stainless if you prefer) and we recommend pairing the kit with a brake bias valve if you aren't already running one. All hardware is compatible with your factory pedal set.

PRODUCT LINK HERE

 

the 3/16" steel line is easier to flare and cheaper. but the stainless line is stainless so it won't rust out.

i buy my stainless line from here Stock Car Steel & Aluminum - Charlotte, NC - Mooresville, NC Metal - Steel Sales and Distribution. Buy Online Now!! shipping is crazy but the line comes with no bends. the summit/jegs mild steel line comes coiled so you need to straighten it first. the stainless has a nicer finish.

 

What's the master cylinder bore diameter? Are you running this with the stock pedal ratio?

FYI, the product link didn't work for me.

 

Fab9Tuning Brake Booster Delete/Tuck Kit

 

Thanks! You're correct. Another thing to add - stainless is really hard on a flare tool so make sure you're not using a cheap rental flaring tool. Another option is to make your bends and flares in the standard brake lines and then hit them with some paint.

 

We aren't using the factory pedal ratio, we will include instructions for this adjustment. It's as simple as removing your factory pedal and drilling an additional pivot point.

I don't recall the cylinder bore off hand, I can reach out to you with the information later. We did try multiple sizes before we found a good balance between throw and effort.

 

4 of these shipped already, I'll be looking for install photos guys!

 

I've been wanting a setup like this for awhile and eagerly wait for user feedback.

Any safety concerns going to a master with a single outlet?

 

Not really. The idea of a dual setup is that two corners will still operate and allow the car to stop. Everyone who I've talked to (in person and on the forums) says the pedal goes to the floor is fluid is lost at one corner.

 

Good point. Its the same deal when bleeding brakes.

 

More kits put together today... Thank you guys, we've sold just over a dozen of these kits already!

 

Thought about adding a remote reservoir option. for total stealth?

 

Looking forward to the install. Thanks for putting these kits together Bryan.

 

Thought about it? Funny you should say that... We're including in now.

 

Hey, i at least checked the website first

 

That's excellent! I was also interested in such things.

 

Could you make a version of the plate with the master cylinder offset upwards 20mm?

This would require some minor firewall mods and a new hole drilled in the pedal itself however it would make for a far better option than just a booster delete. Really you need to move the pedal ratio up to 6:1 vs the 4:1 that is stock.

After doing my booster delete, I think the higher pedal ratio would be preferred by most drivers.

 

i could do the calculations. moving it to 6:1 might run you out of pedal distance. if anyone could tell me the current pedal sweep i can work it out.

 

Remote reservoir yum!

 

Has anyone installed yet?