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Made my intake and started the exhaust for my kmiata swap. I was given the welder setup, it's a Hobart 250 amp AC/DC arc welder with a miller high frequency box for AC and a miller torch cooler. It does ok, but it's scratch start and so it's tough to weld aluminum that has heavy oxide layer because of no AC balance, and I always get a crater at the end cause I have to snap out. It's good to start with but come Christmas im looking to get the HTP Invertig 221.
Shouldnt the miller HF setup include start? Thats kind of like the point of high frequency.
Wait looking at your setup I see what you mean. Thats like the kind of think you'd see with like a remote gas valve on the torch and like a 100ft lead to do factory work with no foot pedal. The fact that you can do aluminum with that at all is impressive.
Shouldnt the miller HF setup include start? Thats kind of like the point of high frequency.
Wait looking at your setup I see what you mean. Thats like the kind of think you'd see with like a remote gas valve on the torch and like a 100ft lead to do factory work with no foot pedal. The fact that you can do aluminum with that at all is impressive.
When on DC i use electrode negative off the welder and i don't use the HF box, I scratch start like you said, its common in pipe welding.
On AC i use the AC on the arc welder and the HF box, The HF box has some frequency adjustment up to 100hz, And because its continuous HF it will jump the arc when i put the torch close to the metal. It jumps very fast when i have a sharp tungsten. If its balled a little i have to move the rod around in front of the tungsten to make it jump.
The trouble with aluminum is the machine is producing a sine wave, at 50% cleaning action. this isn't great for welding aluminum but i can make due if the metal is super clean(like machined). But not having a foot pedal sucks, i have to adjust my heat by travel speed alone.
I bought my aluminum for the intake from Columbia River, and the finish quality is straight garbage. I think if i bought some of that nice polished piping from Vibrant, it would have welded 10x better.
That's some .375 2024-t4 I did, it's centerless ground so it welded great.
I thought I'd share this with you guys. A little while back I made this knife blade.
The blade is CPM 10V a high vanadium tool steel. It has excellent wear resistance. It comes annealed, which means it's in it's not tempered yet and metal can be removed with hacksaw and files. This allowed me to shape the metal and drill holes. After final shaping was done it was acid etched, and then off for heat treating. Based on what some of the professional knife makers had figured out I chose a Rockwell of 64.5. This is really up there, but I wanted an EDC that would have great edge retention. The black finish is exactly how it came from the heat treater. I like it, I wanted it to look like it had seen a million miles.
Thanks for looking,
- JB
Here are a few of my favorite (mostly non miata related) fabrication projects I have done over the years.
First up is a set of portable speakers made and modified from the Overnight Sensations kit from Parts Express. I spend a decent amount of time in Hotels and wanted some to travel with. I modified them to have a built in amp, be able to run off internal or external amp with a switch (since the internal is only 5 watts), they needed to be able to strap together to be easily portable (boombox mode!) and, using two brass pins that both transfer the speaker output and locate the left speaker, they are still able to play like that, or separated with a wire in between.
The starting kit and extra parts needed.
Building and testing the crossovers
Setting up and testing the wireing after getting all the jacks and switches countersunk so they can't be caught on things (durability is the key!)
Checking clearances, fitting a port, amp, crossover and 4" sheilded woofer in a 6x7x9 box is a tall order!
Finnal assembly and finished with floor grade polyurithane.
Had to break out the sewing machine (my first time sewing) to make a strap/carry handle to hold them together. the speakers velcro to a small board and then the strap cinches them together.
Finished product in boom box mode.
I am going to do these in two posts, since there are a lot of images of this one.
Next is a little tube guitar amp based on a Fender Champ 5FC1 circuit. I used solid state diodes for rectification because the power transformer I had on hand had a lower voltage than recommended (SS diode voltage drop 0.7v, tube diodes are closer to 50v!).
Aluminum chassis made from flat plate, u-channel and some machine screws.
Done only with a drill press, jig saw, files and taps.
Circuit underneath.
Mostly finished (Don't have a finished picture for some reason? I will grab one sometime).
The next two are Miata related. First up is my alignment blocks and toe jig that I made. There are slip plates in the top of the blocks. Fairly strait forward fab.
Next is a set of window guides for my friends 91 Miata. I used this opportunity to teach him how to use a lathe. Also learned that nylon sucks for machining....
And last, but not least, my McMastercarr endlinks. They have survived two autocross seasons and about 16,000 street miles so far (ignore rusty northeast underbits...)
made floor brace for 54 ford victoria and did some patch welding on body. got hit by semi bastard that left his lane i should take a more recent photo to show the progress.
I haven't built anything cool recently. Just got done drilling a bunch of holes and bolting a bunch of .25" wall steel box-tube together, for reasons which should be immediately obvious to all but the most dim-witted observer:
It's an attachment to make something that isn't a forklift behave like a forklift, for the purpose of picking up a 98" TV and lifting it up to where it will be mounted.
hey 2manyhobyz - great looking knife - I have some cpm-10v also and have several knives in the works - a couple questions:
who did your heat treating and what did they charge?
64.5 is up there even for cpm-10 - have you dropped it on the floor yet? Any other info to relate on your experiences with it at that hardness level? Bet it really holds an edge.
hey 2manyhobyz - great looking knife - I have some cpm-10v also and have several knives in the works - a couple questions:
who did your heat treating and what did they charge?
64.5 is up there even for cpm-10 - have you dropped it on the floor yet? Any other info to relate on your experiences with it at that hardness level? Bet it really holds an edge.
Thx
Chip
Hi Chip,
I did a lot of reading on BladeForums. Then came across this thread where this person had developed a method for testing edge retention on various blade compositions. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/sh...-5-8-quot-rope
One of the top rankings is from a knifesmith named Phil Wilson who owns Seamount Knife Works. Phil makes some pretty amazing blades. That' how I chose the CPM-10V. For heat treating, BladeForums had nothing but good reviews about Peter's Heat Treating, and I have to agree, they were really great to work with. If I recall it was about $40 to have my small blade done and it took about 3 weeks. Peters Heat Treat Inc.-Precision Part Specialists
Based on what I've read, 64.5 is as far as you can take this metal and still retain a high toughness standard. I haven't dropped it yet, but I don't expect catastrophic failure.
Good luck with your projects, pm me if you have any questions.
Cheers,
-Jeff
It's an attachment to make something that isn't a forklift behave like a forklift, for the purpose of picking up a 98" TV and lifting it up to where it will be mounted.
And it works! Picks up the 200 lb monitor like it was nothing.
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