Wilwood Complete Adjustable Brake Proportioning Kit
11-25-2008, 10:04 AM
#1
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Wilwood Complete Adjustable Brake Proportioning Kit
Wilwood
Complete adjustable brake proportioning kit
One of the best ways to get the most out of your brakes is to adjust the brake proportioning, or bias. The ideal brake bias depends on your ride height, the amount of traction you have (both due to your tires and the surface you're driving on) and the specification of your braking system. You always want the front brakes to lock up first for stability reasons, but Mazda was extremely conservative and so the rears never have a chance to make much of a contribution. This adjustable proportioning valve (also available separately) allows you to adjust your brake bias for the perfect setup. We always have a way to adjust our brake bias in our competition cars.
The kit includes two of our NPT to metric flare adapters and a brake line union to make installation very easy. No flaring or line bending required!
Warning - having too much rear bias can make your car very unstable. Please spend some time testing in a controlled environment.
Item Number: 14-76240
Price: $69.95
Flyin' Miata : Chassis : Brakes : Complete adjustable brake proportioning kit
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11-25-2008, 10:08 AM
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I've worked it out with FM that if we get 10 orders put together they'll give us all free shipping on this item to the lower 48 states.
It's priced at $69.95 for a ready to install kit, no fuss about it. The fittings are custom made by FM and make this a painless install. With the Corrado rotor swaps coming out soon this would be a good time to get in on this.
We need to get 10 people or more together and paid up before we can get this deal. We will all pay FM directly and they will ship it to you directly as well.
Their valve is priced on par with summit and they're a supporting vendor.
Wilwood 260-8419 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves - summitracing.com
Buyers:
cjernigan
Rafa
Oscar (pending shipping approval)
DragonsMaw (pending shipping approval)
UrbanSoot
Ray_Sir_6
It's priced at $69.95 for a ready to install kit, no fuss about it. The fittings are custom made by FM and make this a painless install. With the Corrado rotor swaps coming out soon this would be a good time to get in on this.
We need to get 10 people or more together and paid up before we can get this deal. We will all pay FM directly and they will ship it to you directly as well.
Their valve is priced on par with summit and they're a supporting vendor.
Wilwood 260-8419 - Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves - summitracing.com
Buyers:
cjernigan
Rafa
Oscar (pending shipping approval)
DragonsMaw (pending shipping approval)
UrbanSoot
Ray_Sir_6
Last edited by cjernigan; 11-25-2008 at 03:29 PM.
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11-25-2008, 03:29 PM
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11-25-2008, 06:38 PM
#16
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yup, that was my idea for the Targa. Keith made a whole new line from the mc to the valve, then from the valve to the rear brakes. I ended up cutting a section out of the stock rear hard line, flaring both ends, and adding in new lines up the transmission tunnel to the valve, its a great position and there's no: stop-open hood-adjust-close hood-accelerate-test-repeat involved.
I can tell you what parts are needed for what I did, or just make a new line like keith did, but thats much more easily done with the engine and transmission out.
I can tell you what parts are needed for what I did, or just make a new line like keith did, but thats much more easily done with the engine and transmission out.
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11-25-2008, 08:03 PM
#18
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Parts and prices:
two 10mmx1.5 (might be 1.25, I'll have to double check) unions, ~$3 each
two 18" 3/16 lines (they thread into the 1/8npt-3/16 adapters the valve comes with) ~$5 each
two 3/16 unions ~$2 each
two 3/16 male flare connections ~$1 each
so about $25 total
Directions:
the metric unions connect the two lines under the hood that previously went into the stock proportioning valve
cut about 18" from the rear hard line, directly underneath wherever you're mounting the wilwood valve. slip the 3/16 flare connections onto the rear line (yes, a standard fitting over a metric line, it works though), and flare them. connect the 3/16 unions to these.
bend the 18" lines from the wilwood valve to the two 3/16 unions, and you're done.
a few notes: these are all double flare connections, just like all the stock lines are. I cut the 18" out of the rear line, then took it completely out. the rear section was easy enough, the front section that goes all the way to the master cylinder was a pain, I had to remove the hood in order to rotate it enough to pull it out from the engine bay. I did this because my double flaring tool ($38 at napa) kept slipping on the paint that mazda put on the hardline, so I took it out to wire wheel it. once I did that it worked great. I just used a cut off wheel to cut the lines, but I strongly suggest getting a pipe cutter ($15 at harbor freight) so the lines cut exactly perpendicular.
I can get a picture of the bottom of the car if anyone want it next time I jack it up for whatever reason, but I'll have to be reminded.
two 10mmx1.5 (might be 1.25, I'll have to double check) unions, ~$3 each
two 18" 3/16 lines (they thread into the 1/8npt-3/16 adapters the valve comes with) ~$5 each
two 3/16 unions ~$2 each
two 3/16 male flare connections ~$1 each
so about $25 total
Directions:
the metric unions connect the two lines under the hood that previously went into the stock proportioning valve
cut about 18" from the rear hard line, directly underneath wherever you're mounting the wilwood valve. slip the 3/16 flare connections onto the rear line (yes, a standard fitting over a metric line, it works though), and flare them. connect the 3/16 unions to these.
bend the 18" lines from the wilwood valve to the two 3/16 unions, and you're done.
a few notes: these are all double flare connections, just like all the stock lines are. I cut the 18" out of the rear line, then took it completely out. the rear section was easy enough, the front section that goes all the way to the master cylinder was a pain, I had to remove the hood in order to rotate it enough to pull it out from the engine bay. I did this because my double flaring tool ($38 at napa) kept slipping on the paint that mazda put on the hardline, so I took it out to wire wheel it. once I did that it worked great. I just used a cut off wheel to cut the lines, but I strongly suggest getting a pipe cutter ($15 at harbor freight) so the lines cut exactly perpendicular.
I can get a picture of the bottom of the car if anyone want it next time I jack it up for whatever reason, but I'll have to be reminded.
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11-25-2008, 08:11 PM
#19
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here, this'll do. its the targa miata but the valve is mounted in the exact same place as mine, so you get the idea. the pictured lines are the new ones keith made, the magic red ones are how I bent mine to join up with the stock rear hard line.
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11-27-2008, 02:24 PM
#20
I'll have to price it out locally but odds are it'd be cheaper online regardless. I'm going to replace my engine in the next 6 months though so now I'm thinking of mounting it in cabin.
I guess I'll retract myself for now until I read up some more.
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