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Oil return leaks FTL!

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Old Jun 18, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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Default Oil return leaks FTL!

This is the last part of my build that i need to finish. My car leaks oil from the return line at the pan. Also it is under pressure because my radiator hose between the pan and the turbo has residue on the bottom side. I have -10 hose with a straight fitting at the turbo and a 45* at the pan. When i drilled my pan it was kind of at a slight downward angle. Could this cause it to leak like a mother? Ill get pics soon as i get home...
Old Jun 18, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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might need to pull the fitting off, clean it up and redo it with moar sealant.
Old Jun 18, 2009 | 10:39 PM
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Ok, if you drilled your pan at a slight angle, it doesn't matter. However, if you tapped it at that angle you've made a mistake...but I dont think its a horribly bad one.

Here is what I did for my drain line. I have a straight barbed fitting at the oil pan. I didn't use any JB weld. After I had the pan tapped, I put black RTV (like for your oil pan gasket) around the threads and threaded it in. Then I used the same stuff on the barb before I slipped the hose on. Then I used a hose clamp tight on that ****. No leaks and I figure i'm more likely to have leaks with a hose barb setup than you are with AN fittings (assuming you have AN fittings, right?)

I have a love-hate relationship with RTV. It is always my last resort which is a good/bad thing. Its bad I had to resort to RTV, but then again it holds up for practically forever.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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So i redid my fittings. cleaned them off and used copper RTV rated to 750*. Did few quick pulls @ 7 psi (somehow it bumped up 2 pounds and all i did was change the ebay air filter to a KN&N). The thing is it smokes pretty bad on startup. It doesnt smell like fuel but unsure of what exactly it is. After about 15 seconds of driving it goes away untill i reburn the ECU it smokes again for 15 seconds then fine.

My PCV valve is VTA is this correct?

My breather tubes go to my catch can. There is oil pre turbo on the coupling and pipe. Not much but probably 4 drops chillin with residual inside the pipe. Im thinking my turbo is effed because theres axial play (very slight and does not bind when pushed all the way). Builds boost fine. Clutch slips @ 7PSI.

Some pics

Oil on the bottom of the coolant hose but not on the top

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How my fitting sits

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wet



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Does the oil return line have pressure in it? Because if it doesnt then the leak has to be coming from something else right?

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How my engine bay looks currently

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Pic from underneith

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Helpful sugjestions poleez?
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sbkcocker499
Im thinking my turbo is effed because theres axial play (very slight and does not bind when pushed all the way). Builds boost fine. Clutch slips @ 7PSI.
Do you mean radial play? A little radial play for journal bearing turbos, as I understand, is ok. There should be no axial play.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:48 AM
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Theres no in/out play but up down left right it moves very slightly
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:53 AM
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Yes it has radial play. not axial. Any sugjestions about the leak or smoke out of the exhaust?
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:54 AM
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See how its up high on the block? It's most likely your oil pump, oil pan, or front crank seal. Mine leaks too, unfortunately unless it's just the seal it requires pulling the engine.

That breather port off the intake manifold needs to be connected to the pcv valve, or at least it should. If that breather line which appears to be going to the catch can is at all exposed to atmosphere, that's just a huge intake leak. Wow there's a lot of things I'd do differently with your routing of wires/tubes/hoses.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:08 AM
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I know... my routing is horrible. I want to get it running and tuned then start cleaning it up a bit. Any way to know for sure if its the oil pan?
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 03:24 AM
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Is it wet back by the feed in the block? It could be spraying from that fitting.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 03:34 AM
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Did you notice that bolt missing on the end of the oil pump housing? It looks like its coming from there anyway, then add the fact that a bolt is missing... thats my guess.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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That forward facing hole for the A/C bracket should be plugged....


also your drain has some upward travel to get back into the pan....
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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So what one needs to be plugged?
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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That forward facing hole, like i described....the one in the picture facing forward without a plug. NOT the ones facing to the side of the motor.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by sbkcocker499
So what one needs to be plugged?
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t34796/
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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that's the video i was looking for, i thought levnubhin posted it, not kotomile...

Old Jun 25, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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Hey, I just noticed you have some sort of sealant on the -10AN fitting... you are not supposed to use anything on AN fittings, and putting crap in them can cause them to not seal properly.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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As brain pointed out, looks like you pulled A/C and didn't put a bolt back in your oil pump that used to hold on the compressor bracket.

Read m2cupcar's girly catch can thread. Read it all and you'll know how to better route your ****. its very wrong right now.
Old Jun 25, 2009 | 01:46 PM
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oh yeah, you're straight up pressuring the crankcase!!!!!

here's my catch can setup:

Old Jun 25, 2009 | 03:09 PM
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incase ur wondering. its a
m8 x 1.25
45/50mm long will do it.



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