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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:35 PM
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Default Updated with new pics - heatshield

Hey all,

I am running into all sorts of issues trying to get bits to fit as I install the turbo. The latest one is that the airconditioning compressor bracket fouls the side of the sump, and where I have enough space on the sump to clear everything, the access to the sump for drilling is fouled by the chassis/subframe.

Has anyone encountered similar issues (or not) and how did you get around installing (particularly the drilling and tapping part) the return fitting into the sump for the oil line return?????

Last edited by Uncle Arthur; Mar 19, 2007 at 05:52 PM.
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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Good question since I'm going to be doing this next week !
Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:55 PM
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you just have to be careful, a 45deg head is supposed to help. Otherwise, you need to either A) pull the engine B) pull the subframe. it's tight in there. Do a search, there is tons of info on tapping the pan here.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Arthur
Has anyone encountered similar issues (or not) and how did you get around installing (particularly the drilling and tapping part) the return fitting into the sump for the oil line return?????
I have the same problem. it's almost impossible to drill in the usual place if you have AC compressor still in place.
I have seen an AVO kit instruction manual in wich they put a jackstand under the pan, lift the engine a bit and then unbolt and remove the left motor mount.
So you have enought room from to drill next to the compressor bracket, from the inside of the engine bay.

I will do that asap, I still need some fittings...
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 08:48 AM
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there's plenty of room:



run of the mill cordless drill, run of the mill drill bit.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 10:52 AM
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Done from underneath correct? I have AC and see that as the best way to go about it. Some people might be attempting to do it from above, thus the difficulty.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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yeah, car was on two jack stands. there's no way you can do it from above. but it can be done no problem.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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You have A/C, Braineack?
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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A/C, P/S, ABS, Leather, Power Windows, etc.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
A/C, P/S, ABS, Leather, Power Windows, etc.
*****
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 12:35 PM
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I have PS and AC as well. I put the car on stands and used a long extension for my bit. I think I removed the wheel too.
Old Mar 16, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by getsidewaysd1
*****
hellzyeah!
Old Mar 17, 2007 | 01:30 AM
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It takes a few more minutes, but I unbolted the compressor and raised it up a few inches to get the drill in there. Just be sure you don't put the fitting too high that it interfers with the pump once it's back on.
Old Mar 17, 2007 | 07:21 AM
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Thanks all for the suggestions - in the end we modded the A/C compressor bracket slightly with the angle grinder and it fits ok.....

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The rest of it is looking like this after today's effort.....

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However it was not all plain sailing - this is what happens when aftermarket 'bolt on' parts (like the NPower dump pipe) don't actially bolt up and need extensive modification.

First it needed to be cut just to get it to be able to bolt up to the turbo. Don't aske me how much trouble we had trying to get the bottom stud connected.

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Next, I have to find a way to shift the water return pipe because the O2 sensor position is right in the way (and I'm not pulling the dumppipe back off after it took an hour to fit up.

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That said - we got it to start this afternoon, and the oil is happily being pumped to the turbo, and it still runs.....
Old Mar 17, 2007 | 11:55 AM
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looks good, few thoughts:

what type of turbo is that?

Consider a NACA duct, or something to prevent your intake from getting nice 500-700* F radiating heat from the DP.

what diameter is the charge pipe?
Old Mar 17, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
what diameter is the charge pipe?
And where does it go??

Everything looks great polished up. Fabbed parts look real good too.

Turbo probably a 16G. Maybe a 14B, but i'm guessing 16..
Old Mar 17, 2007 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by UofACATS
And where does it go??

Everything looks great polished up. Fabbed parts look real good too.

Turbo probably a 16G. Maybe a 14B, but i'm guessing 16..
The charge pipe is 38mm and it goes here:

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I'll be making a heatshield/shroud for the air filter, so it will predominantly draw cooler outside air through the hole in the firewall that previously held my old Loch Stewart air box.

And this is the turbo here - I don't exactly know which TD04 it is - I thought 13G at first, but I really can't tell the difference between them looking at pics on the net.

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Old Mar 19, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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Sooooo - it's amazing how long the finishing off seems to be taking - I suppose it's not easy to ****** much time when the office beckons each day for most of it...

Here is my heatshield. It's not as bling as bling can be, but it's a bugger to make these things from scratch. I don't know how some of the guys get their DIY airboxes/heatshields looking so damn good.....

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I'm hoping it does what's needed.
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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looks pretty legit, maybe wrap those heater hoses in somthing to no?
Old Mar 19, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by VRTSid
looks pretty legit, maybe wrap those heater hoses in somthing to no?
yeah - I'm wondering about how I might do that, but it is the intention to protect them some how.



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