Nice Info hopefully phillip will make it a sticky. there are some good guidlines here. Dont forget to mention
1. the 16g and the greddy 15c are not compatible.
2. WI can also be used to cool the intake charge
3. the 1.6 dif is one of the weakest available and should be prgraded if a very agresive driving style is to be used
4. tapping the oil pan though scary to think of. While it is still on the engine is the best option for the turbos oil drain control.
5. Patience and enginuety can make up for a lack of mone yot a point but is you can get the best parts available in your budget.
6. not totally turbo diy but the skinny *** 185's, 195's, and 205's just wont cut it if you try to get of the line with them so get some rubber under your car it will be safer in the long run
I hope this helps

 

sweet

 

It does, there's a lot left out that I forgot to add.

 

That is why we are all togehter and not sitting there writing to ourselves.

 

No problem! Nice job btw...


Stephanie

 

so how bout the sticky huh phillip what do you say.

 

I don't think is quite ready to be a sticky. I still want to add things.

 

Braineak, a suggestion if it's not too bold.

Something that is needed is a quick and easy turbo guide. A list of all the various turbos (maybe the top dozen) and plus/minus notes on Miata specific applications. Also, which specific turbos are compatible with each other as far as straight bolt on to different manifolds. Which turbos can be safely clocked. What cars came with each of these turbos from the factory. Which downpipes fit each turbo based on mounting.... stuff like that.

 

DO you know how long that would take i doubt there are very many people on this planet much less forum who could come up with half that info. I wish it could and had been done years ago but i don't see how it would be feasible given the vast amount of turbo tech it would require.

 

I'm not talking about every turbo out there, just pick the top 10 most popular for Miata use.

The ones I constantly hear around here are:
T25
T3
16G
VF10
TD04
T3 super60
GT25R
I think those are the "usual suspects"... somebody knowledgable just needs to write a few pro's/con's about each one, say what manifold and DP's work, and tell what hood to look under in a junkyard.

It could look something like this (disclaimer: not actual turbo, just an example):

Turbo: T69
Manu: Mitsubishi
Comp: .50 Turb: .50
Cool: Oil and Water
Clocking: Yes
Wastegate: internal
The T69 is designed for sub 2.0litre motors and will push up to 18lbs of boost. For Miatas utilizing 2.5" intercooler piping, expect full boost by about 3000rpm. This turbo is a standard upgrade over the 1.6 Greddy kit, will mate to the stock Greddy manifold and downpipe, reach boost approx 500rpms earlier, and has the advantage of water cooling. They are a little harder to find as the only car to every run this turbo was the Yugo sport and more popular Yugo RR (AWD rally version). They run about $450new and $150used.

If we had a quick reference thing like this, I think it would make the initial search for a turbo easier. Of course nothing beats the "search" key for homework, but this could be a starting point.

 

even if you did only garrets and lef the mitsu and other oe turbos out it would be a daunting task heck just for the 16g it would take probably a good hour or to but hey if you have the time i am sure you could publish it and sell it for 20 bucks apeice to alot of people so long as it is fairly complete. i wont drift your thread anymore braineak this is why i tried to get it stickied early on the basics of the faq are there and almost 1 week later nothing new of value has been added Sorry

 

Cause I'm incredible lazy.

 

teehee.. i thought it said DIY *** lolz

 

It might as well. As soon as you start a DIY project you'll start humping your tailpipe.

 

haha. i started one, and have it sitting in my garage forsale.. because well.. im 21, live in Ohio by myself.. this car is not working out for me :(

so I am selling the kit I put together. damn.

 

or you'll start cursing at it. I've done my share of that.

 

I'd make the following changes to the first post, regarding fuel pressure:

Needed fuel pressure = ( PR^2 x idle pressure) + boost

Pressure Ratio (PR) = 14.7 + boost / 14.7

Example: 6psi = 1.408
1.408^2 = 1.98
Idle pressure = 36
(1.98 x 36) + 6 = 77.38psi

 

I had the superscript 2 in there when I wrote it in Word....guess it didn't copy over. Thanks for reviewing it.

 

I opened this back up for people to reply to the FAQ and to post comments and suggestions here.

 

Just one comment:

May want to parenthesis in PR calc. so order of operations works:

Pressure Ratio (PR) = (14.7 + boost) / 14.7

I like it! I've been reading/re-reading over and over as I plan my setup. Thanks for putting it together.