You're buying something from walmart? Wait, dat price. That cant be right. The processor in that thing costs more than the whole computer. Fuck that go leave work and buy that right now before they realize the price cant possible be right. Like seriously, that processor is listed at $280 on amazon for the non-K or S version of the i7 3770. I have the K version which is basically the version of that processor designed to be over clocked and it costs more than double what that computer costs.

I just tried to buy two of them, and it's now showing as out of stock.

Damn, that was a hell of a deal.

Did they forget a zero or something?

For me it shows as in stock but it wont let me add it to my cart. Just call walmart, if they CS doesnt suck they will honor the price. I know amazon and newegg would.

ugh. work got in the way and it's now out of stock. i should have bought it as soon as i saw it.


but it seems like they are cancelling orders from people on slickdeals.

lol

it was basically an $800 computer for sale for $151. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...FUPl7AodShoAfA

I saw it and should have tried to buy it at first instead of running around wagging my dick all over. but a lot of people had orders cancelled.

seriously i hate buying things. you have no idea how long it takes me to buy even a $20 pair of headphones let alone a computer rig.

Buying a $20 pair of head phones is easy. They're too expensive to be that set that you dont care about and too cheap to actually be good so you dont buy them.

i actually bought $20 headphones the other day. I like it cause the cord is covered in a woven material for extra chair-rollover protection. I had to return 2 i tried before them because i didnt like how they felt. But the only thing I dont like is that they had a huge band across them (they are the soft foamy ones that look like ear muffs) and it messes up my beautiful hair.

I have a set of Grado's and V-Modas.... Not the cheap ones either. lol.

Just get something, you have all month to find a good deal. I also think you'll find the best deal on black friday.

If I get something prebuilt, i'm installing win7 over win8.1 before I even start it.

Oh i don't blame you. win8 sucks.

probably going to install it over the win8 install in our current coach/tv watching laptop.

Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, LED LCD TV, Digital Cameras and more!

thoughts on this combo? I realize it's an AMD chip, but it'll end up around $420 shipped after rebates. Seems like a fairly decent MB, only thing that bothers me is that is doesn't have a port to put the USB 3.0 on the front of the case.

Everything else I'm looking at packages the i5-3330, so here's a comparison of the two chips: Intel Core i5 3330 vs AMD FX 8320

Biostar motherboard? Thats the only thing that worries me on that list.

Why can't you?

i dunno. how would i?

isn't there usually a port on the MB itself so you can wire the front of the case? I see it has two for the usb 2.0 for the case, but nothing but the two rear 3.0 ports. Doesn't really matter, the only two things I use to transfer data with my usb is my camera and ipod.

Oh. I guess you're right. I didn't go to the details because i figured if the rear ports were 3.0 the expansion slots would also be 3.0.

I got a flash card reader to fit on my front panel and it's way faster than USB. That was my solution. Plus less wires.

Wait, what? You're looking at AMD CPUs and cheap-ass Motherboards?

Brain, stop. Just stop. Buy an Intel CPU and in Intel motherboard. Nothing else matters so much as having a good motherboard, chipset and processor. I'm not saying that AMD / Biostar sucks, only that Intel is better in every possible way. Better driver support, better documentation, more efficient, more robustly constructed, etc.

Pay the extra $50 and buy something nice.

Or don't and live life happily knowing that you saved $50 and will never be able to tell the difference in which CPU you bought.

Find me the same setup with intel parts for $470 shipped (that's the $420 I could get this for plus the extra $50).

So an i5, intel MB, 80+ cert. >500w PSU, case, 7850 GPU, 8GB of Ram, and a 1TB 7200RPM HDD.

If you can do that I'll buy it today. I understand the limitations of the AMD chip, but I'm also living the limitations of my duo core 2 with only 4GB of DDR2 RAM. There's nothing new I'd do with this new computer than what I do now, so ANYTHING is an improvement.

At least until 3 years down the line and the crappy chinese capacitors in the biostar MB burst.

I was referencing the CPU.

I'd just like to make it clear i've never owned anything but an ASUS and Intel motherboard.

Honestly, what kills a motherboard for me is the BIOS. If it has a shitty BIOS i don't care how much it cost or what brand it is, it sucks. It works both ways.

your capacitor makes ME bulge.


the only complaint I've seen about the bios is that it does not support mouse in the UI; lol.

I have to agree with Brain here, There is nothing wrong with Amd Cpu's and they pack plenty of performance for a better deal. I'm still running a Phenom II 1045t Overclocked to 3.3 ghz, and it still packs plenty enough power to max out all my games at 1080p with my radeon hd 7970 maintaining 60 fps or more. I do think you can get a better deal on more quality components if you watch around. I would go with a nicer motherboard, and shoot for at least a radeon hd7850 with 2gb vram, as 1 GB vram runs out fast with modern games.

I've been watching daily for deals, still the best I can piece together always ends up closer to $600 with very comparable components or a lot of times, less comparable.

I'm trying not to spend more than $500 right now on it. I could get away with 86ing the GPU and just keep using my HD4830 for now, then upgrade it when later, but i still probably wouldn't want to spend more than ~$100 on it as well.

I'm really tempted to just buy that combo, add another stick of 8GB, and just enjoy it.

I just do casual gaming, I'll play maybe 3 hours a week, and a few more on the weekend. For the game I play, it still works, but the computer is seriously struggling in photoshop and lightroom where I've been spending most of my time lately, and that's what's REALLY bugging me.

This combo will solve that and stay just within my arbitrary budget. (honestly I need to save cash cause I'm about to do a big project to our house and need the funds.)

phase two will be switching over to a SSD and then a better monitor with calibration software. My current monitor is awful; i lose a lot of detail in darker images/colors. A lot of times I'll look on my monitor of a picture and be like ugh my camera sucks, then look on my laptop screen and be like holy shit look at all the detail.

Fine. An extra $120.15, including shipping:


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1384272384


Personally, I feel that not being frustrated is worth $120.15.




That's just the thing. This isn't the "JD Power Award for Initial Quality," is the "JD Power Award for Not Being an Unreliable Piece of Shit in the Long Term."


Remember the recent thread in which I was talking about how I added a 4TB hard drive to my media server PC, which is running an Intel motherboard and CPU which have been powered up and running reliably for *ten years*, and which is now running Win7 just fine because Intel doesn't use shitty integrated peripherals from fly-by-nite manufacturers for which driver support vanishes six months after you buy them?

That 8 core processor will be a huge upgrade from your core 2 duo, even the fx 6300 and 6350 run great. Sure they can't compare to the high end intel cpu's but they're no slouch. You will probably do fine with that motherboard, I have owned 2 biostar motherboards in the past. One with an amd athlon 2100+ back in the day and another with an athlon 64 that still works to this day.

i have a very similar parts list, but a different cpu and MB.

the one you chose doesn't have usb 3.0 or 6gb/sec sata.

i was looking at this: MSI H77MA-G43 LGA 1155 Intel H77 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS - Newegg.com




I'm pretty sure I had a biostar MB back in the day when I had an AMD chip back in 2000. That was the last PC I built, when AMDs were much better than the pentium chips.

Why is usb 3.0 such a big deal to you? I still only have 1 usb 3.0 component and its my external hard drive. And IMO 3.0 doesnt seem any faster in the real world.

I've had 2 seagate HD's die on me in under 3 years. 3 WD HD's are still going currently.

Take that how you will.

I'm not a fan of loosing data.




JoeP preaches high quality parts, but adds the Seagate drive(add whatever fancy fish name you want to it, it's still a low end drive). Tisk Tisk.

This whole Intel is WAYYYY better than AMD horseshit has got to stop.

Right now. Stop it.

This is a comparison of high end processors.
I would expect middle of the road, and other "versions" of these processors to be alike.

Even if there is a difference the margin is SOOOO small you'll never tell a difference.
Quit trying to make him spend his money on things he doesn't NEED.
In my over 10 year existence of building computers have never had issues with AMD/ATI chipsets and drivers.

Don't get hung up on trivia. Neither one is really relevant right now. If they ever become relevant, it'll be extremely simple and inexpensive to add them via PCIe later on.

Here's 2x USB3 for $10: Newegg.com - PCI-E Express to 2-Port USB 3.0 Controller Card Adapter Hub 5Gbps

And here's 2x SATA-III for $25: SYBA SY-PEX40039 Controller Card - Newegg.com

It'll be a while before you need either one, by which point these cards will be in the bargain bin at the local 7-11 along with old Kenny Loggins cassettes.



Right now, I've got about a half-dozen hard drives in regular service spread across several machines. A couple of Hitachis, one WD Green, two Seagates (can't remember which fish), and maybe aother WD somewhere?

Of these, only the newest (the 4TB Seagate) is less than about 3-4 years old, and all are in mostly continuous service.

For any hard drive manufacturer, it's possible to point to some specific generation of some specific model and say "look, these drives were pieces of shit, therefore I'll never buy from X manufacturer." Does anybody remember the IBM Deathstar? And yet aside from the 75GXP, IBM/HGST have some of the highest ratings on the planet for consumer-grade HD reliability.

Same goes for WD, Seagate, Connor, Maxtor, Control Data, Burroughs, pretty much any company that has ever manufactured a hard drive. You simply can't take past performance as an indicator of future reliability.

The last time I hard an actual hard-drive failure was around 2009, and it was a 1.8" Toshiba drive in my old Vaio laptop. which lived a rough life. Prior to that, I literally cannot remember the last time I lost data in a hard drive failure. It was sometime in the 90s.



Actually, I don't care one whit about AMD vs. Intel CPUs. I care about the motherboard. If Intel manufactured a motherboard that would accept an AMD CPU, I'd be fine with that. Heck, if AMD themselves manufactured a motherboard for their own CPUs, I'm sure it would probably be fine, too.

What's not fine are poorly-designed motherboards made with cheap components by third-party manufacturers that suffer from poor driver support, glitchy BIOSes, less-than-optimal design in terms of power regulation and trace routing for high-speed lines, and will probably suffer minor, trivial component failures which take them completely out of service in less than 10 years.

Joe I appreciate your comments and guidance, but the Jew in me pretty much has my mind set. Found if I order on their mobile site, I can get an extra 5% off. After adding in another stick of RAM I'll be at $462 shipped after rebates; That's incredible cost:performance and I'm pretty sure I'll be happy with it.

Grab a 120-250gb ssd during the holiday sales and you won't be disappointed. Best thing I ever bought for my pc.

yeah that will be phase 2 for sure. It wasn't a necessity for me as the program I use dont really benefit from it (CS6), but one thing I hate now is that if I have to restart my computer it takes about 10 minutes to load fully and be able to open FF, and running Photoshop takes maybe 1-2minutes to load. It would be nice to cut that down 10000000000%.

Aaight.

of course the 5% coupon code is only taking off $3.50. On chat with the newegg.com staff and they aren't very smart. first they said it's not a code, but and now they want the order number of the order i have yet to place.

looks like it's only working on the extra stick of RAM is why. going to boo-hoo and see if i can get a full extra 5% off. :)

whatever. not worth my time. ordered.

Enjoy the build, maybe I'm strange but that's my favorite part. I'll be taking the stock HSF combo off my radeon hd7970 this week to put on an all in one water cooler just for the fun of it, then I'll probably overclock it just to see what it can do.

nice. apparently this CPU can overclock easily to 4.5Ghz if you watercool it; not that i need to/will.

I've never understood overclocking. It's like buying a car with a puny little 1'6 engine and then spending a bunch of time and money turbocharging it.

Oh, wait... :D

Well I mean if you're smart you buy a 1G DSM and spend next to no money and get another 100hp out of it, reliably. Thats how you do it properly. My overclock that I run all the time cost zero dollar over the normal setup and took under an hour of tweaking an another couple hours of stress testing to make sure it was bullet proof.

That's why i said "take that information how you will". I do realize that anything can die. Hell i bought some really expensive "gaming" memory and it was DOA. I could have killed it with socks and carpet for all i know. I'm not blasting anything, just putting my experience out there.

I can respect your opinion on motherboards though. In fact i feel the same way. I had the old (first gen?) Asus "rampage" motherboard, and it was a pile. I think they got them figured out after a while though.

As far as overclocking an AMD processor, from my own experience it goes pretty easy until you need to start raising voltage. If the BIOS allows it even. If you can that's when i would see a good temperature increase. Rightly so i suppose.

I seriously laughed out loud for 30+ seconds because of this.

Touche






Touche


Of course, I bought a 1.8 and don't really get overclocking either but...still, funny stuff.

You can buy a $250 CPU at 3.2ghz, spend 50 bucks on a cooler and overclock it to 4.0ghz, or you can spend $500 on an identical CPU factory overclocked to 4.0ghz.

With an unlocked multiplier its super simple, but I still usually overclock FSB because there is performance to be had there.

I try to match FSB speeds. I haven't had good luck OC'ing the FSB. Ever...

What BIOS?

Sometimes no money has to be spent. I had an Asus Radeon hd 7850 that came stock clocked at 860mhz. That thing ran reliably at 1150mhz without even changing the fan profile settings. That offered a huge performance increase, about 20-30 more fps. Later I got greedy and wanted more so I put an AIO water cooler on it, and can only get it to 1200mhz. Obviously the effort and money probably wasn't worth the extra 50mhz, but it sure was fun seeing how far it would go. I used that card for about 6 months, threw the stock cooler back on it and sold it for $10.00 less than I paid for it.

It

Was

A

*JOKE*

(Hence the smiley at the end.)

gets here monday, got all weekend to prep files/installations.

wish this rig was on sale monday so id have it friday to do it all this weekend.

Speaking of the static comment above. How many of you use anti-static straps when you work on computers? I never have and never ran into an issue.

that's funny.

Me neither.

I just make surer that whatever I am working on is plugged in (the power cord is connected to the wall, thus establishing a ground connection) but switched off. I then make sure to establish contact with an unpainted metal surface of the machine before touching anything else.

At work, we actually have a couple of special IEC power cords expressly for this purpose. They have only the ground pin connected, but not the hot or neutral pins.

Ive never done any anti-static anything. Although Ill probably use Joe's suggestion in the future. That is easy enough and worth the peace of mind.

I'd use Joe's apparatus too.

I'm sure you do.:giggle:

Usually i'll try to discharge myself before reaching in and grabbing parts. I don't use an antistatic strap though, that's to much for me.

Though I own an anti static wrist strap I dont often use it when servicing my computers. I do make a strong effort to hold on to a bare metal part of the case for a few moments before touching any PCBs after shuffling around on carpet though. I recently put together a gaming rig for my 13 year old cousins first computer and I bought him a anti static wristband to include with it. I think they are a good idea for those who are not used to working with ESD sensitive components.

My current rig is an AMD 8320 overclocked from 3.5 to 4.7 with very little voltage increase and a 220 FSB, it's cooled by a corsair H110 closed loop water kit. Very pleased with its performance.

That is exactly correct.

On the factory floor, the assemblers wear wrist and heel straps, walk on conductive mats, use anti-static hand lotion, are forbidden from wearing certain fabrics, etc.

In the lab, we know how to not fuck up. We do have conductive mats on the work benches and the fancy $800 ESD-safe soldering irons, but that's about it. Smart people who know the difference between good shit and bad shit simply develop safe working habits, such as always grounding one's self before picking up a component, and then touching the leads of said component to the mat before bringing it into contact with the board, etc.

You can do the same at home by simply treating the chassis of the computer as a reference ground, and exercising common sense. Eg: don't wear gloves made from rabbit fur and juggle amber pins immediately prior to installing a CPU.

you know what's sad? the Case comes tomorrow, but all the rest of the parts come monday...