It sucks without slicks. Although I did get the e30 on slicks while still being c class

 

It staying in C-class is still up for debate!

I'm pushing for A-class with a e92 m3 motor

 

I say you find a f class car and we just add slicks.

 

I would like POWER now that we have an FR.

 

I was guna say, I thought we wanted to do faster cars now?!

 

Yes please. I like the e30 but I don't know how good a race will be without slicks and race brakes, something you can't do while keeping it in c-class. I forgot to try widening the tires, so the sport tires might be enough with that...

 

e30 in Aclass is fun!!!

 

E-30 BMW M3 on Infineon Nascar it is. A-Class 600.

1991 BMW M3

423hp
301lb.ft.
~2476LBS.
52% Front
4.0L Displacement

Make sure you do the engine swap first.

Engine Swap V8 BMW M3 E92
RWD Drivetrain
Naturally Aspirated

Stock Air Filter
Stock Intake Manifold and Throttle Body
Stock Fuel System
Stock Ignition
Stock Exhaust
Stock Camshaft
Sport Valves
Stock Displacement
Stock Pistons and Compression
Stock Oil and Cooling
Stock Flywheel

Race Brakes
Race Springs and Dampers
Race Front Anti-roll Bars
Race Rear Anti-roll Bars
Street Chassis Reinforcement and Roll Cage
Race Weight Reduction

Stock Clutch
Race Transmission
Race Driveline - If wanting to use lighter wheels you may have to downgrade your driveline
Race Differential

Race Tire Compound
Widest Front Tire Width
Widest Rear Tire Width
Wheel Choice is Open - I am running Enkei NT03+M to put me at 600 with the race driveline
Stock Front Rim Size
Stock Rear Rim Size
Forza Race front Bumper
Forza Race rear Wing
Stock Rear Bumper
Stock Side Skirts



I need a lot more tuning but I got down to a 1.19.8xx

 

I can't race this week. But I'm still building this car!

 

Nice, I think I had a little less power and got a 1:24.xxx fairly easily. I'll see what the V8 gets me.

 

Just noticed something about the first race pictures... I'm glad I was told it was OK to use downforce mods on my Civic... No wonder you guys pulled away so fast, and why my car seemed to suck with that tune.

 

1:22.7, dirty. I'd love to know some of your guy's alignment numbers, along with gearing and downforce.

I'm currently only changing toe, 1* front, .5* rear, trying to heat up the tires a bit more, along with adding ~4 points to the sway bars. Anything else you guys like to change?

 

My gearing is extremely short, lots of downforce, turned the accell on the diff WAY down.

I can't remember my alignment numbers, probably 6* or so degrees of caster. Mostly for the last hair pin. Similar toe settings as curly, went conservative on the camber, no more than -2* degrees.

I'm still messing with the shocks, springs, and sways.

 

I'm running 1:21.1xx

Alignment: -2* front camber w/ 5.5* caster and .3* rear toe. Everything else zeroed out.

I just got off but I'm gonna get back on. Not wasting my time on the ******* Gators tonight. I don't want to get in a fight tonight when I have to work tomorrow.

Back! to nerdin'.

 

I thought .8* was prime camber on the game. Is this wrong?

 

Yeah the inside of the tires get way to hot vs the outside with anymore than -1.5*. I like to keep the outside and inside within 20-25* of each other, hot.

Softer settings seemed to make the car more stable too

 

Where do you see temp numbers? I found the temp/ damage indicators from clicking the right stick, but I haven't found any numbers at all...

 

Press down on the dpad

 

There is a balance. I usually put the cars at 3 clicks from the lowest suspension settings, then go firmer on springs until the car ceases bottoming out. Then, I add compression and rebound to stop the hysteris on bumps, then add spring rate to the front or rear to get the balance right. Then, it gets tricky and I add tow-in on the rear and add swaybar to balance it out.

I managed a 1:21.5 in this weeks car but it's still generally hard to drive. The #36 with the V8 is much easier to drive and goes a lot faster with all that tire.

 

Holy data, Batman!