2000 NB

While installing a new radio in my car today, I lost the interior lights, door buzzer, radio, and gauge lights. Turning the key to accessory does nothing at all, if there was anything from that list I might have missed. Turn signal indicators etc. still work on the dash. Brake lights and headlights also still work, but my tail lights do not.

I checked the radio fuse, tails fuse, and cabin (I think is the term it uses), and none were blown. I can't find an obvious ground that seems to have come loose either.

Any suggestions? The only other thread on this seemed to have hit a dead end.

EDIT: It is also not the Meter fuse.

 

My money would have been on the "Room" fuse. Id say try swapping it just to be safe, I think I've read of cases of the fuse looking okay but actually being blown.

 

Sorry, "checked" read: "replaced anyway"

 

Harness butchery or something like a scosche wiring harness adapter?

Either way, disconnect whatever you connected to the "dimmer" or "backlight" wire in the harness.

 

I'm a follower of this youtuber. You might get some tips here

 

Scosche in-line with a female harness connector. Bought them seperately and soldered it. Nothing is connected to the orange or orange-white wires (though it is possible they may have bumped some metal. They have since had shrink rap over the end(they were just cut flush before)). The antenna is connected to the 12V constant on the ignition harness via a switch, and also doesn't work. I discovered that on my way to class though and haven't had the chance to take a multimeter to it yet. I'm not very familiar with the ignitions wiring, but I would assume that wire is required to be hot for the car to start. So, ill check the antenna fuse and maybe its an unrelated issue. Otherwise, I'm at the point that the scosche harness is unplugged and it doesn't appear to be a fuse. Ive read a few threads discussing the TNS relay, but never with this many symptoms.

 

Will it crank?

If not it actually sounds like the same thing I did while you were at the shop a few weeks ago.

I managed to pop the main 40 amp fuse in the PDB beside the window washer bottle.

 

Unfortunately (fortunately?) It cranks and drives fine.

 

To continue a FB conversation, I told him I also had a similar issue with a bad contact in the ignition switch.

It didn't kill everything he mentioned, but the car would crank and run and still had no radio, no interior lights, and at least one other issue. Maybe no gauge lights.

We'll shortly figure out I'm still wrong, though.

 

In a 2000 the systems you describe are powered through multiple fuses.

With Ignition on:

Main 80A - Yours starts so not this.
BTN1 20A - If rear defrost works, it is not this or 80A
Tail 15A - If TNS relay has 12V on White/Blue wire then not this or BTN1 or 80A
Room 10A - Feeds 'keep alive' power to ECU. (note that some 2000 also have ECU powered from the Fuel Inj fuse - mid model change) as well as instrument cluster.


With Headlight on:

TNS Relay - If Red/Black wire has 12V then not this or Tail, or BTN1 or 80A

If no 12V on TNS Red/Black: and symptoms suggest this is the case:

Either BTN1 fuse, TNS relay or Headlight switch or Light Green wire from TNS relay to headlight switch.

Only BTN1 fuse (or the wiring to/from it) matches all your symptoms.

 

The actual headlight switch is built in to the clockspring/stalk assembly, correct? I've got like 2~3 of these in the garage from when I was trying to get my cruise control working if you need one to try out. Its probably the stupid TNS relay though.

Props for Barby I gave up looking at the wiring diagram after I saw that post.

 

Wow... props! Assuming it works, but props nonetheless.

 

Thanks for props.

Schuyler, make sure you read my edited post - I added a couple of lines.

 

I added props, and you were right! Unfortunately I came across it 5 minutes ago and saw your post when I sat down to post my success lol. I appreciate it all the same though!

I was just checking all the fuses since I had a test light, and the BTN1 fuse was in fact out.

Thanks as well to everyone else who suggested solutions. I'm glad there is now a thread with some actual solutions for what seems to be a fairly common problem when slip ups happen while installing radios.