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Old 05-11-2008, 10:56 PM   #1
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Default 1.8 BP Engine Rebuild (block)-slow progress

Ok, I am getting started on my long awaited engine rebuild and I plan on documenting the entire process for future reference and to get help along the way.
Motor is a 94 with 140K and ****-poor compression when pulled.
Plan:
1. Tear down block.

2. Take block and crank to reputable local machine shop for work/prep. (honeing, cleaning, etc.)
-once shop is done, order the correct size bearings (based on shops recommendation) from mazcomp along with new oil pump (and hopefully billet gears from Loki), all seals, water pump, timing belt, new OEM rings, etc.

3. Take stock pistons (8.8CR) to HPC (high performance coatings) to get cleaned and ceramic coated. Quoted $150 for all four.

4. *undecided on this* Have crank knife-edged and have the entire rotating assembly (clutch included) balanced.

5. Reassemble block with the help of good friend that has done a few of these to proper tq. specs according to shop manual that he owns.

6. Mate to stock 94 head via ARP head studs. Maybe some DIY porting, hell, I have a spare.
*Plans are to later upgrade to a 99/00 fully built head with bullet proof valvetrain for 9K redline. Write up to follow on this eventuallly. *


Comments and input are welcome, insults are not, don't make me send Hustler after you.
Pics will be updated regularly, as well as $ ammount spent on parts and labor.

So far:
-ETD H-Beam rods(new), $300 from fellow MTnetter through classifieds.
-Ceramic coating on OEM pistons, $150 at HPC.

Cheers,
Dan
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Old 05-11-2008, 10:59 PM   #2
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Upside down view of block.

Name:  001-1.jpg
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***Note: Do not use a pos 'Made in taiwan' wrench, it will snap causing your hand to punch a wall, ask me how I know.

Last edited by Zabac; 05-11-2008 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:13 PM   #3
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Looking forward to an excellent documentation. Something i can look back on when i am doing this myself.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:23 PM   #4
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+1 Subscribing for a detailed (pics, $$, problems, etccc) so i can reference in the future...

BTW good luck Zabac, here's to a successful build!
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:38 PM   #5
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i'd let the shop assemble the bottom end if you don't have precision measuring equipment.

subscribing
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:54 PM   #6
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Looks great.

oh yea,
How do you know?
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:14 AM   #7
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was the cost of pistons not budgeted or are your goals sufficiently low for stockers? I've pondered this myself but adding up the cost of stock pistons and rings and everything it made sense to go with hustler's second-hand supertechs.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:18 AM   #8
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The good friend referrenced in step 5. has the proper tools, I am really lucky to have him offer to help with the build, well, he basically insisted.

Y8S-I am re-using my pistons, every coating shop I talked to recommended I do so to save money, reason being, both new and used pistons get treated and cleaned before coatings are applied, does not matter if they are new or used, they will get cleaned anyways. It only made sense to re-use mine.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zabac View Post
The good friend referrenced in step 5. has the proper tools, I am really lucky to have him offer to help with the build, well, he basically insisted.

Y8S-I am re-using my pistons, every coating shop I talked to recommended I do so to save money, reason being, both new and used pistons get treated and cleaned before coatings are applied, does not matter if they are new or used, they will get cleaned anyways. It only made sense to re-use mine.
I think what he is asking is why you didnt go with something stronger like wiseco.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:53 AM   #10
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1. We have good pistons as is, and piston failure is usually due to hotspots due to lean mixtures which I plan to avoid by doing the following.
a. A proper tune
b. Dual feed rail (to avoid #4 starving for fuel)
c. Ceramic coating (to avoid hotspots and get better overall burn)

2. Not to worry about piston slap, car is a semi daily driver.

3. To save money, $150 sounds a lot better than $550.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:56 AM   #11
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also... is there a reason you went with ceramic coating only? I'm a fan of the tripple coating myself. This includes a ceramic coating for the dome, dry film lubricant for the skirts, and a heat shedding coating for the under side. suppose to dramatically reduce knock tendency.

*edit* and wear.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:02 AM   #12
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I'm tempted to get the supertechs re-coated with the triple. are you talking swain noah?

The biggest difference I figure between stock and forged is durability. you're less likely to bust a ring land during detonation with a forged, rather than cast, piston. And since the only way to find your detonation threshold is to pass it...
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkmage View Post
also... is there a reason you went with ceramic coating only? I'm a fan of the tripple coating myself. This includes a ceramic coating for the dome, dry film lubricant for the skirts, and a heat shedding coating for the under side. suppose to dramatically reduce knock tendency.

*edit* and wear.
Well, I am getting the tri-coat actually, all three of those are different types of ceramic coatings, I just failed to specify. The dry film actually makes the break in process a whole lot better according to Bill Cardell, so another benefit.

y8s-there is a reason FM coats their Wiseco pistons, I would recommend itfor the supertechs as well.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
I'm tempted to get the supertechs re-coated with the triple. are you talking swain noah?

The biggest difference I figure between stock and forged is durability. you're less likely to bust a ring land during detonation with a forged, rather than cast, piston. And since the only way to find your detonation threshold is to pass it...
I believe Swain is the manufacturer. Performance Coatings can apply it, but there is also a place I found in Canada that does it for a fair price (I'd have to hunt down the link on my other computer).
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zabac View Post
Well, I am getting the tri-coat actually, all three of those are different types of ceramic coatings, I just failed to specify. The dry film actually makes the break in process a whole lot better according to Bill Cardell, so another benefit.

y8s-there is a reason FM coats their Wiseco pistons, I would recommend itfor the supertechs as well.
Good choice. Not as forgiving as forged, but with a proper tune they should hold up great.
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:53 AM   #16
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This is basically the same type of build I'm currently in the middle of. Only I'm building a 1.6, I got my coatings done at a Synergy Coatings locally.

I've got the short block assembled, just waiting on the head. I've got lots of pics but I don't want to hijack, I was going to wait to post pics when I finished.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:00 PM   #17
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Start a 1.6 rebuild thread...there are few differences in the two, it will be usefull to have both motors explained. I plan to include Tq. specs as well, for easy referrence, Good luck in your build.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:26 PM   #18
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Thanks, I think I'll do that, good luck with your build as well.
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Old 05-12-2008, 10:03 PM   #19
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Im down to help dan just let me know...i can travel
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Old 05-13-2008, 02:14 PM   #20
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Dan, looking good!

Tell me when should I send you my engine
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