1st track day boosted, 3 issues...
#21
I wasn't driving, a friend of ours (me and Keith) was. Keith was in his Villa watching, but a few friends of his were down with me watching from the fence. My ugly slow Miata was stuck in a middle of Porsches/Ruf.
GT3 stock
GTS Ruf-modified
Miata
Ruf RGT
996 Turbo (650whp, was just following, way faster than everything else)
The 1.8 front rotors work very well on the lighter 1.6 car. It was a good upgrade, but now I am looking for some front Sport brakes, and non-sport 1.8 rear brakes.
GT3 stock
GTS Ruf-modified
Miata
Ruf RGT
996 Turbo (650whp, was just following, way faster than everything else)
The 1.8 front rotors work very well on the lighter 1.6 car. It was a good upgrade, but now I am looking for some front Sport brakes, and non-sport 1.8 rear brakes.
#23
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I wasn't driving, a friend of ours (me and Keith) was. Keith was in his Villa watching, but a few friends of his were down with me watching from the fence. My ugly slow Miata was stuck in a middle of Porsches/Ruf.
GT3 stock
GTS Ruf-modified
Miata
Ruf RGT
996 Turbo (650whp, was just following, way faster than everything else)
The 1.8 front rotors work very well on the lighter 1.6 car. It was a good upgrade, but now I am looking for some front Sport brakes, and non-sport 1.8 rear brakes.
GT3 stock
GTS Ruf-modified
Miata
Ruf RGT
996 Turbo (650whp, was just following, way faster than everything else)
The 1.8 front rotors work very well on the lighter 1.6 car. It was a good upgrade, but now I am looking for some front Sport brakes, and non-sport 1.8 rear brakes.
I have this set up planned for my car.
#24
Imo
I often repeat this- but I ran stock NB brakes with hawk blue pads and ducting for a four hour race at Daytona. The car was doing 130mph twice per lap and then hammering the brakes to enter the infield and the bus stop chicane. IMO I was braking as hard as any car out there in my two hour stint (no full course yellows).The rotors were fine and there was a good 1/3 of the pad left at the end of the race. My point is, if you think you need some high dollar brake upgrade (even if you're boosted), you're probably only using a small portion of the stock brakes full potential, either through braking method/practice or prep.
Last edited by m2cupcar; 07-30-2008 at 01:57 PM.
#25
http://motorsportranch.com/villas.cfm
I often repeat this- but I ran stock NB brakes with hawk blue pads and ducting for a four hour race at Daytona. The car was doing 130mph twice per lap and then hammering the brakes to enter the infield and the bus stop chicane. IMO I was braking as hard as in car out there in my two hour stint (no full course yellows).The rotors were fine and there was a good 1/3 of the pad left at the end of the race. My point is, if you think you need some high dollar brake upgrade (even if you're boosted), you're probably only using a small portion of the stock brakes full potential, either through braking method/practice or prep.
#26
So is anyone gonna agree on what is a good track pad for a boosted Miata?
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Last edited by levnubhin; 10-07-2009 at 03:07 PM.
#28
i Often Repeat This- But I Ran Stock Nb Brakes With Hawk Blue Pads And Ducting For A Four Hour Race At Daytona. The Car Was Doing 130mph Twice Per Lap And Then Hammering The Brakes To Enter The Infield And The Bus Stop Chicane. Imo I Was Braking As Hard As In Car Out There In My Two Hour Stint (no Full Course Yellows).the Rotors Were Fine And There Was A Good 1/3 Of The Pad Left At The End Of The Race. My Point Is, If You Think You Need Some High Dollar Brake Upgrade (even If You're Boosted), You're Probably Only Using A Small Portion Of The Stock Brakes Full Potential, Either Through Braking Method/practice Or Prep.
+1
#34
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I've got Eddie at Adrenaline Racing and Corksport in my back yard. I'll be checking in with them for pad recommendations too.
Gotta install brake ducting from my r-spoiler. Also working on an ABS splitter/ undertray along with the ducts. Slim fans, wired together are another project underway. When the fans are wired together what happens with the AC? I'm thinking of using wire connectors so I can run them in parallel at the track and quickly swap wires to run separately for AC on the road.
I'm working on a better Naca duct headlamp cover. Splitter/undertray should help keeping the air moving out of the engine compartment. Not undertray right now. Not a good thing at high speed, high heat.
Gotta install brake ducting from my r-spoiler. Also working on an ABS splitter/ undertray along with the ducts. Slim fans, wired together are another project underway. When the fans are wired together what happens with the AC? I'm thinking of using wire connectors so I can run them in parallel at the track and quickly swap wires to run separately for AC on the road.
I'm working on a better Naca duct headlamp cover. Splitter/undertray should help keeping the air moving out of the engine compartment. Not undertray right now. Not a good thing at high speed, high heat.
#35
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There were 2 non-FI miata's yesterday. 1 Mini, 1 Acura RS. Beyond that it was all high buck, high performance. 2 Arial Atoms, 4 or 5 GT3's, 4 Lotus's (Lotusi?) lot's of 911 turbo's, 1 new Lambo, 1 Ferrari 430, several M3 Bimmers, 3 Cayman, several Boxsters, etc.
Lambo was in my class. Good to say he was driving it. Lot's of those exotic guys are scared and baby around the track. I'd hang pretty well in the corners and he'd dust me on the straights. Fastest guy in my class was driving a mid 90's M3. Minor mods to the motor and suspension, huge Brembo's, R-comps and skilz. That guy flew. 1st session he lapped me twice. Next 2 only saw him once. Last session never did see him. I got a lot faster as the day went on. Getting used to the power and trusting the Rcomp tires. Then the brake pads disintegrated. Good thing it was the end of the day.
Lambo was in my class. Good to say he was driving it. Lot's of those exotic guys are scared and baby around the track. I'd hang pretty well in the corners and he'd dust me on the straights. Fastest guy in my class was driving a mid 90's M3. Minor mods to the motor and suspension, huge Brembo's, R-comps and skilz. That guy flew. 1st session he lapped me twice. Next 2 only saw him once. Last session never did see him. I got a lot faster as the day went on. Getting used to the power and trusting the Rcomp tires. Then the brake pads disintegrated. Good thing it was the end of the day.
#38
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come on, you cant read that bad....
Redstuff Superstreet Brakes
Superstreet formula for cars above 200bhp and fastest street driving
Yellowstuff Ultra High Friction Track & Street Brakes
Ultra high friction pads for race use but perfectly safe for street use.
like I said, i've run both green stuff and redstuff on the track, both at 6-7psi (160-170rwhp). The greenstuff performed BETTER than the redstuff. EBC IS A JOKE!
I've had greenstuff on both my miata and altima for street driving. they are great for initial bite but wore down faster than anything I've ever experienced.
Better than 15" rotors?!..... Please strap a turbo on a spec miata and lets see all the praise Redstuff pads get....my bet is none.
We have two people here, me and cue, that have used redstuff on the track with a turbo miata and both had the exact same experience.
Redstuff pads are enhanced with ceramic particles. The use of ceramic based brake pad friction material normally increases the thermal heat cracking of brake rotors. This is due to the lack of heat dissipation characteristics of ceramic based brake pad material. Great race pad! Let see how my brand new, less than 3K rotors looked like after (6) 15min sessions redstuffs pads:
Redstuff Superstreet Brakes
Superstreet formula for cars above 200bhp and fastest street driving
Yellowstuff Ultra High Friction Track & Street Brakes
Ultra high friction pads for race use but perfectly safe for street use.
like I said, i've run both green stuff and redstuff on the track, both at 6-7psi (160-170rwhp). The greenstuff performed BETTER than the redstuff. EBC IS A JOKE!
I've had greenstuff on both my miata and altima for street driving. they are great for initial bite but wore down faster than anything I've ever experienced.
Better than 15" rotors?!..... Please strap a turbo on a spec miata and lets see all the praise Redstuff pads get....my bet is none.
We have two people here, me and cue, that have used redstuff on the track with a turbo miata and both had the exact same experience.
Redstuff pads are enhanced with ceramic particles. The use of ceramic based brake pad friction material normally increases the thermal heat cracking of brake rotors. This is due to the lack of heat dissipation characteristics of ceramic based brake pad material. Great race pad! Let see how my brand new, less than 3K rotors looked like after (6) 15min sessions redstuffs pads:
+1
I also used both red and green on the track and street. The greens lasted longer and dusted less than the reds. I chunked my EBC reds on the second trackday entering a turn and also ruined a rotor. NOT a fun experience. I wont ever get EBC brakes again. This time I went with Carbotech rotors and Carbotech XP10s for the front and XP8s in the rears.
#39
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The headlamp Naca duct feeds directly into the open air intake which is surrounded by a heat sheild. I'm sure there is some overall pressure increase but it can't be much.
Hustler,
I haven't done much for cooling. BEGI did the standard water reroute and I installed the GS group buy radiator. I'm fabbing up the splitter/undertray and will add slim fans in parallel. Temps were climbing at the end of the sessions. I don't think the single stock fan, which isn't sealed well against the rad, is enough. The lack of any undertray can't be helping as well as the exhaust leak at the turbo/downpipe connection from the loose bolts.
Hustler,
I haven't done much for cooling. BEGI did the standard water reroute and I installed the GS group buy radiator. I'm fabbing up the splitter/undertray and will add slim fans in parallel. Temps were climbing at the end of the sessions. I don't think the single stock fan, which isn't sealed well against the rad, is enough. The lack of any undertray can't be helping as well as the exhaust leak at the turbo/downpipe connection from the loose bolts.