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Old 06-28-2007, 08:45 AM   #1
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Default 2 Blown Radiator Fan Relay and White smoke

I've got 2 huge issues here.

Number 1

I'm running the wire out from my MK2 Link ECU (terminal 1L) to turn the radiator and A/C fans (2 high speed SPAL fans wired in parallel) on at 92 degrees celcius.
The wire is connected to the thermoswitch located above the thermostat in the front of the block. Ever since I've done that, I've busted 2 relays (found in the engine bay, where the rest of the fuses are), over a short period of 2 weeks.
Both times, I checked the wiring and found them to be ok, with the fans working alright, by shorting the power ends of the relay block.
In the meantime, I've connected the thermoswitch wiring back.

Number 2
I see loads of WHITE smoke coming out from my exhaust. This happens very intermittenly and only at IDLE. Car is running fine otherwise. I've been advised on 2 possibilities.
A. My Turbo (TD04) has a leaking oil seal and I need to rebuild it.
B. My oil return line is chocked.

Any comments or advice?

Tim
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:43 AM   #2
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White smoke would indicate water (rather then oil) being burned off to me. Thats typical of a headgasket or similar issue.
Blueish smoke = oil
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:42 AM   #3
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Default re: number 1

Are you using the stock wires, or did run heavy gauge? If you're using the stock wiring, then you need to change to the upgraded wiring diagram I provided. The problem is you're overloading the stock circuit. Spal fans (motors) are high amp, higher than what the stock wiring is designed for. By using the diagram below, you remove that high load from the OE circuit. If you did create the new circuit, then something is wrong with it. I (and others) use the circuit below for high amp fans w/o issue. If keeping the OE thermosenser, then it is connected to the lead running to terminal 86 on the relay. - rob
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:02 AM   #4
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bigger relay...
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:32 AM   #5
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m2cup.
I used the Terminal 1L connected to the thermoswitch and used the original wiring.
Before that I was also using the SPAL fans, with the stock wiring and relay wired in parallel and that ran for more than a year and a half.
The only difference between that circuit and the one that keeps blowing relays is the use of the 1L terminal to switch on at 92 instead of the thermoswitch to switch on the fans at 97.
Somehow, it seems that ever since i used the Link to control the temp, the relay keeps dying.
is there any possibility that connecting the stock wiring to the Link instead of to the Thermoswitch is causing the relay to go bust?
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:00 PM   #6
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If the only thing you did was add the Link to your ground circuit and now it's blowing relays- then I'd say yes, it's causing the problem. Though I don't know why. I'm running the circuit as in the diagram and have NEVER had issues. The reality is that the stock wiring is NOT adequate for running higher load. If you upgrade the fans, then you should upgrade the circuit.
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:02 PM   #7
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qes does your car have a/c?
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Old 06-29-2007, 08:52 AM   #8
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M2Cupcar.
Thanks. I'll bear that in mind

Ben,
That's affirmative. I have an a/c. And the a/c fan and radiator run in parallel.
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:17 AM   #9
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AC fan when not in use on the stock wiring will go to ground from what I've learned recently (actually, thanks again Ben).....

Right now with no AC installed, but AC Fan, I've wired the stock fan to trigger relay and then power the AC fan. However, if I was to put the AC in (bought one recently), it will go to ground....

Dave,
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:54 AM   #10
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yup when I just tapped +12v from the cooling fan to the a/c fan I lost the cooling fan relay too. You have to cut the +12V trigger wire from the a/c fan.
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Old 06-30-2007, 10:28 AM   #11
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i actually followed the instructions on hakuna's webbie.
And ran it for a year or so.
Then when i switched to the LINK, running 1L at 92 degrees, i started losing my relays
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Old 06-30-2007, 11:12 AM   #12
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The only thing I can figure is that the LINK ground is weak. Not having a wiring diagram, I don't know where that circuit goes to in the LINK. BUT if you wired in a relay so you sent the relay to a known good ground via the link ground at 1L you'd probably remove the "unknown" culprit.
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Old 06-30-2007, 11:38 AM   #13
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1L runs the ground via the OE relay via the thermoswitch. It crossed my mind as well tha the ground via Link was weak, causing a poor connection.

Strangely though, when I tested the car the first time, connecting the thermoswitch wire directly to ground still caused a noise in the relay (that was already spoilt) which went "tik tiak". So i figure the switch is still working, just likely that the circuit for the actual current was busted inside the relay. Any logic there?

And oh, btw, my turbo seized on me, so i guess the culprit for the smoke is the turbo after alll.
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Old 06-30-2007, 11:42 AM   #14
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Cheap relays really suck. Can't point you in the direction of a good relay due to half the planet between us, but make sure you use an automotive relay rated for at least 40A. The cheap 30A stuff you see commonly (like the ones included with aftermarket horns and foglamp kits) are usually trash.
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Old 06-30-2007, 11:45 AM   #15
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Oh--here's a way to remove strain off the cooling fan circuit:

Run only the cooling fan off the Link 1L.
Run you a/c side fan off the thermoswitch.

So your fans would come on at 2 different set points, and never at the same time. Would remove a lot of strain from the circuit.
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Old 06-30-2007, 03:57 PM   #16
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I just wired both signal wires together. I have a '94 though so I don't know if it's different. If the rad fan is called both turn on. If the a/c is called both turn on. Each fan has it's own relay but work together.
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:17 AM   #17
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Ok,
I've settled the Somke issue.
I blew my Turbo and had to change it when the turbo jammed on me.
*Sheepish*
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