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Old 04-25-2008, 02:47 PM   #61
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My current copy of EPC confirms the different part numbers. I'm going to run the MSM cam on an adjustable wheel.
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Old 04-25-2008, 03:10 PM   #62
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so this third cam shot from the grassy knoll then?

I'm curious if there's a magic exhaust cam I can drop into a 2001 head and gain a little lift for even less dollars.
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Old 04-25-2008, 03:24 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
so this third cam shot from the grassy knoll then?

I'm curious if there's a magic exhaust cam I can drop into a 2001 head and gain a little lift for even less dollars.
No exhaust cam that I know of. The solid lifter cams are the bigger ones, they all came later and we know which ones they are.
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Old 09-21-2008, 03:41 AM   #64
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Didn't have time to get the bodywork on before the autocross I run for Speedventures. Engine map is way off but it still makes really good power. First datalog shows AFR's 11.1~12.1. Good enough for TTOD by a full second. Actually has power oversteer now. Revalved Flex in front with 12/7kg springs. Has a 22mm NB front bar but I think it could use a tad more front roll stifness so I'm going to try an FM 7/8" (24mm) next.

The Autokonexion hood didn't quite clear the 1.6 dashpot and TPS plug having been moved forward on the FM adapter plate. A few nasty little notches with a coping saw and it cleared. So despite grinder making a lats minute change to the raise the vent it doesn't clear the typical 1.8 into a 1.6 harness swap. doh

You can see the stick welding on the quarter where the fresh red paint is. Boss Frog arms go on next. The stitch welding in the engine bay, quarters and sills is really noticeable. You can feel the front end better when stuffing into a turn. Still on OE rubber bushings. Next week a V8 roadsters lightweight subframe goes in with full Energy Suspension bushings.

Lots of temporary stuff:
Hood latch is temporary until I get the hood pins installed (4 pins, no hinge either).
No airbox, just wrong size silicone 90° sitting there. The airbox will be sealed in where the headlight was and fed from the turn signal opening.
Mirrors being replaced by some of Slick Auto's trick dry carbon APR mirrors with Miata specific mount plates.
Reroute from M-Tuned in a few weeks.
Heatshield for heater hoses.
Washer bottle will come out.

Stuff I'll be testing in the next month:
Prototype Wilwood 11.75/10.5" BBK
Prototype adustable tubular control arms
Prototype drop spindles
XIDA prototypes (100 & 125mm stroke, floating perches, spherical bearings, double adjustable monotubes)
Prototype stupid light cat back race exhaust

I have been a busy boy!

It was weird rolling through the pits and having rocks flying up and into the interior.
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Old 09-21-2008, 03:10 PM   #65
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sounds great, I'm sure everyone is as anxious as I am to gain some knowledge of new products your testing as well.
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Old 09-27-2008, 05:04 PM   #66
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Started a blog to make faster updates.

http://949racing.blogspot.com/

I'll still update here but the blog is so fast so it'll get more detailed stuff, pics and videos.

Updating from Buttonwillow, sitting under the canopy right now.
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Old 10-01-2008, 11:05 PM   #67
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Old 10-01-2008, 11:26 PM   #68
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in for big brake kit with affordable rotors and quick-change pads.

Any examples of the anthracite wheel color yet? I need to get my 2nd set of 6UL's ordered...lol.
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:33 PM   #69
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Got Savington's COPS installed. Me like.

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Old 10-11-2008, 10:22 PM   #70
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why did you put the 1.6tps on if you're running ms on a 99 motor?
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Old 10-11-2008, 10:36 PM   #71
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Quote:
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why did you put the 1.6tps on if you're running ms on a 99 motor?
Didn't absolutely need the VTPS for a track motor. I have so much to complete before the next event that the small gains in driveability from a VTPS get pushed aside for the time being.

I will add the VTPS eventually.
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:18 AM   #72
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:14 AM   #73
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looks good, bro.
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:57 AM   #74
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Interested in the tubular control arms.
What source is the ball joint from? Upper and lowers?
Been wanting this for awhile now.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:29 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machismo View Post
Interested in the tubular control arms.
What source is the ball joint from? Upper and lowers?
Been wanting this for awhile now.
Keeping it under wraps until testing is complete. Big project with lots invested and a patent or two. I should be able to show pics before the end of the year.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:40 PM   #76
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Fair enough.... just try to keep the cost below the $4k mark, as others seem to be.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:14 AM   #77
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I thought this was supposed to be a cheap track day car build, what happened to the cheap part.

How am I supposed to copy what you're doing when you add trick parts that are unavailable to a joe like me?
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:24 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S View Post
I thought this was supposed to be a cheap track day car build, what happened to the cheap part.

How am I supposed to copy what you're doing when you add trick parts that are unavailable to a joe like me?
What trick parts? Everything is off the shelf.

As it sits, a "Joe" could duplicate it for about $9500. When it's done, that'll be more like $13500. For a car that'll run 1:25's at SOW, that my friend, is wacky cheap.

I'll be testing some more exotic parts on it so the budget thing eventually goes out the window. There are two key components to cheap speed here:

1. Remove anything that doesn't make it faster = Free
2. Junkyard NB motor, MegaSquirt, RB header, misc, 150whp = $2400

Just weighed it a few hours ago, 2044lbs without gas or me. That's a genuine 13.6 lbs/hp as it sits. That number will drop as I pull another 80 lbs out of it and get it on a dyno.
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Old 10-30-2008, 03:57 AM   #79
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I wish to sex your car up ^_^b
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Old 10-30-2008, 04:15 AM   #80
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Thats looking really good! I hope to have a project 1.6 one of these days to play with and strip bare and rebuild. I also want those COP's, maybe one of these days.
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