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I know I'm a new user, but I have tried searching for my specific problem and can't find it. I am trying to adjust my idle, as it is too low and droops sometimes.
I jumped the Ground and Ten connectors in the Diagnostic Connector.
Then I adjusted the idle adjustment screw until I got to the correct RPM (I'm doing about 950-1000RPM to compensate for the droop, which if it does droop will then go to 850RPM)
Then I shut the car off and removed my jumper wire.
Now when I go to turn the car back on it goes back to where it was before, at about 800 and then will sometimes hit about 700 or slightly under. What step am I missing?
I've also tried adjusting the idle without the jumper, but obviously that doesn't really work either. It adjusts, but then resets when I turn the car back on. I have also tested the TPS with an Ohms meter and the TPS is working correctly at Idle and WOT (IDL pin at ~.4 ohms until the throttle is pulled slightly and the POW at 0 ohms until WOT). I'm absolutely lost because I have followed the directions by several people, all which seem to be exactly the same.
Why are you worried about the droop? 900-1000 is annoyingly high idle. 800 is good. it should only dropp for a second, and then maybe settle at 750 or something. 90% chance that if you wire tuck that thing, it will never run right again. along with being very difficult to diagnose.
It gets shaky when it hits the 700 which I do not like, and it seems to compensate for that by jumping up the RPM for a quick second. It's almost like it does not want to run that low. With my exhaust and everything too, it truthfully sounds a lot better at 900-1000. Truthfully my exhaust sounds like a truck with FlowMasters when it's idling or at low RPM's which I love haha
With my exhaust and everything too, it truthfully sounds a lot better at 900-1000. Truthfully my exhaust sounds like a truck with FlowMasters when it's idling or at low RPM's which I love haha
Quoted for back-to-back contradicting statements..
When I say low RPMs I am talking about low in the powerband but still on the gas. When I am in the RPM range of 800-2000 it sounds just like a truck with flowmasters. It still does not like to be at 700 RPM just idling, it gets shaky and doesn't act like it does when it's idling around 900-1000.
Whether or not you enjoy the RPM range that I chose, my basic question remains the same. Is there something I missing in order for the idle adjustment to not reset when I restart the car?
Yeah I have adjusted it both with the jump wire in the Diag Connector as well as without it in, and whenever I restart the car it goes back to where it was for whatever reason. Perhaps I try it again tomorrow without the jumper wire and see what my results are. I figured I was doing everything right, it was just not working it seemed. I wasn't sure if the ECU would kinda reset what I was doing (even though I'm adjusting a screw, not like the ECU moves the screw lol)
Why are you jumping ground + ten when setting the idle? All that does is put the timing at a static 10 degrees until you pull the jumper. You should also be setting idle without touching spark settings.
Why are you jumping ground + ten when setting the idle? All that does is put the timing at a static 10 degrees until you pull the jumper. You should also be setting idle without touching spark settings.
actually, you're supposed to do that when setting the idle speed. You want the timing locked as you set the idle speed.
or vice versa maybe...
when setting timing:
when setting just idle speed:
if your timing is actually like 16-18° at idle when you're setting the speed, it'll be much lower whenever it's running at 10°.
01-06-2017, 05:50 PM
Adjusting Idle resets after turning the car off
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