HarryB

You are right; brainfart.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

This thread is relevant to my interests. My NB air con is not cold enough.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

installing the eclipse vents onto my msm helped . it allows you to block airflow to the passenger side, and direct all the air the dinky blower can muster up at you (or at my armpits lol) which helped some

for $25 and about 20 minutes of install time, def worth it

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

I think I am one of the very few on here that has both an NB and an ND at the same time. I do not know the charge status of my 01, but it takes a long time to get cold and takes a long time to cool down the cabin too. I very rarely have to go full blast on the ND and I often have to turn it off and on on long cruises because it will get me too cold even on the first setting.

The major difference between the two is that I have 3M Crystalline tint on every glass surface on the ND and zero tint on the NB.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I would rather the cabin be cool in its entirety than just to have a cool stream on me in certain areas and have everything else be hot. You know, like in normal cars.

The compressor should be adequate. What is needed is better exchanges at the exchangers. Moar airflow, please!

I found that my system gave me a lower vent temperature with slightly higher volumes of 134a because the higher head pressure yields a greater temperature difference at the condenser and therefore a better delta T on a hot day. YMMV.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Mine works pretty well as long as I have it set to recirculate. 1999.

But i do still plan to supplement the window tint for better performance.

EDIT: I also idle at 1000 RPM when A/C is on, which helps when stopped.

Stealth97

iTrader: (5)

My A/C in the NA is just good enough. Hardtop helped immensely.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Yes, I idle at 1200 with the a/c on, too. It makes everything work better.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

This week in MB:

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B6Tfastiva

iTrader: (1)

Copy and paste from alldata. Iirc most charts have humidity on there also but apparently mazda doesn't consider it a factor.

1. Install the manifold gauge set.
2. Open the hood.
3. Close all the doors and all the windows.
4. Warm up the engine and run it at a constant 1,500 rpm .
5. Turn the A/C switch on.
6. Set the fan switch at 4th.
7. Set the REC/FRESH lever to REC.
8. Set the mode dial to VENT.
9. Set the temperature control dial to MAX COLD.
10. Measure the center ventilator temperature and record the temperature reading.
11. Measure the ambient temperature and record the temperature reading.

1. Verify that the temperature reading is in the shaded zone (maximum 6 °C {43 °F} ).

•  
  • If the performance is not within the shaded zone, troubleshoot the refrigerant system

1. Install the manifold gauge set.
2. Open the hood.
3. Close all the doors and all the windows.
4. Warm up the engine and run it at a constant 1,500 rpm .
5. Turn the A/C switch on.
6. Set the fan switch to 4th speed.
7. Set the REC/FRESH lever to REC.
8. Set the mode dial to VENT.
9. Set the temperature control dial to MAX COLD.

1. Measure the high- and low-pressure side readings of the manifold gauge.

•  
  • It the high- and low-pressure side readings are in the shaded zones as shown in the figure, the refrigerant system is normal.
  • If the high- and low-pressure side readings are not as specified, troubleshoot the refrigerant system.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Roger. I'd been trying to figure this out from the FSM, and it wasn't really clear. And, frankly, because of all the issues I've had with my back over the past year, I'm being really careful about bending over / contorting myself into tight spots to examine stuff.



I really do need to pick one up.

6's suggestion about very slightly over-charging the system makes me want to even more.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

On the na the cable is accessible on the passenger side by simply removing the glove box door, iirc. It may even be down below that and glove box door removal may not be necessary. I recall it being clearly visible and easy to access.

Engi-ninja

+1 on tinted windows. Makes a huge difference. Using recirculate after the interior has cooled off also helps a lot.

You can also buy a set of my close-able 3D printed vents :-)

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

How about the ability to supply higher voltage to the interior blower fan? Anybody got any bright ideas? I'd like to go higher than the Thirteen or so volts coming out of the charging system.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Tinted glass would probably be good. My gut feeling tells me that the thin layer of black cloth which is my top is a far bigger hinderance.

This weekend is set aside for some basic maintenance. I'll look at the cable controls if I can.

And, to be honest, this is a 13 year old car with >140k on it. I approach concepts such as voltage-boosting with trepidation. I honestly don't think that airflow across the evaporator is the root problem here.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

The root problem is that even at it's best it wasn't good.
My last MSM had 30k miles, an absolute showroom condition car, and the ac still sucked.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I overcharged mine a little. Then i wired both fans together. It takes a little while for the cabin to get cold but it does fine on a 90F humid day around here.

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

Loving this thread so far. I did Eclipse vents a couple weeks ago and they've been nice, but I definitely want more AC.

DeerHunter

You think you guys have it tough? My NA didn't come with A/C from the factory (very few Canadian Miatas did in the early years) and I had to have it retrofitted at the same time as my stroker was installed. It's okay, but probably wouldn't do well in a hot and humid climate.

Still better than my MSM though, which has none at all (see note above about Canadian spec cars).

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

R134 is not the greatest refrigerant. I ran a propane blend in my current NA when I first got it and it brought the temps down 15° from the R134 I originally put in. This is in a system designed for R12 though. I did the same thing my 87 Benz (again R12 system) and got a greater decrease over R134. The propane blend also runs lower pressures. Manifold gauges are a must for getting into it, but in the end you need a thermometer in the vent to dial in your temps. Unfortunately the inefficiency in these old systems becomes very apparent in direct sun and stop/idle. I have adapted the last gen NB compressor and a 95 R134 condenser to my NA and am very close to charging it. Will report back.